Your distributor sits on that timing cover, without the engine hoist bracket, not sure if incorrect spacing will cause funny issues with contacts and the rotor.
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upgrade to the m20b25 forged cam gear while you are in there. also replace the cam seal. cheersComment
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You definitely need the engine hoist bracket as it acts as a spacer for the timing cover.Comment
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I should have clarified. I meant leave out the dowel.
**BUT, after I did the timing belt job today I turned it on and it idles fine. Only when I gave it a little gas did the belts start to scream and it shut off. I gave it some time and started it back up again and it idles totally fine, and when I give it gas it doesn't die. But, the belts still squeal like crazy. What could this be? I made sure not to tighten them that much. Maybe they're too lose??
It also takes forever for it to turn over now too :(Last edited by Jdub; 07-11-2016, 04:33 PM.Comment
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UPDATE: I think I found out why I had issues getting it back up and running. Check out the damage on my crank position sensor. Got a new one otw.
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Update pt. 2: I got my new CPS plugged in and the car runs great again. Still having issues with the poor throttle response but overall the car feels more responsive.
I think my next step will be adjusting the throttle cable as I haven't done that yet and it seems pretty loose. Also dropping in some Lucas Oil Stabalizer to help with the slight ticking I am getting!Comment
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If This is true would the bolt on the right being stripped but still sitting in place cause any problems? That bolt o mm my head is stripped but as far as I can see doesn't seem to interfere with anything. That said my valves tick like crazy.
Oh and done mean to thread jack thanksComment
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M20's tick when they are perfect. It's just what they do.
The injectors are very audible.Originally posted by Andy.BComment
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