Starts then dies

[jhaw]

Hi all,
My 325e was working ok... It had a few issues so I was addressing them. replaced the clutch fan, removed the air filter since the bottom of the filter was missing and changed it to a cold air filter. There was an alarm put in by the previous owner and I'm trying to figure out how to remove that. After messing with the car, I start it up and it runs for a second then dies. revving doesn't keep it alive, or doesn't even respond for that matter.
Does anyone know the possible reasons why its doing this? I'm thinking there's something in the alarm system killing the engine. I've read there could be a vacuum leak. but i didnt touch anything aside from the air filter. Any advice would be appreciated.

[RobDog]

My dads 325es does this every once in while. The car starts fine every time, but only runs for a second, then dies. When it dies its is like someone shut the engine off with the key. No sputtering, it just dies in the exact same way, at the exact same time, every time. Giving the car gas has no response. When my dad's car does this it has always been loose or dirty contacts on the AFM connector. Since you removed the AFM to change your air filter I think that is your problem. I would make sure that the AFM is plugged in all the way and is making good contact. You may have to get a small screwdriver and lightly bend all 4 connections, so that they clamp onto the AFM pins, to ensure good contact.

[MrBurgundy]

Could be a number of things, but if you're giving it gas and its not responding, it sounds like the afm is taking a dump.

[packratbimmer]

Is it only getting spark when the starter is actuated?

[jhaw]

Thanks for your replies. I'll check on that AFM.

[KIRIEIW]

Starts then dies

I was literally about to make a post on this because my car is having the EXACT same symptoms, looks like I can use this thread instead of making another virtually identical one and hopefully both of us can figure out our problem. Car runs for about a second and just dies.

According to the Bentley there are 3 possibilities, I've so far tested two with no luck. I sent my fuel injectors in two weeks ago to have them rebuilt just for the hell of it and still no luck. I've swapped relays, including the main relay, swapped both the speed and reference sensor EVEN though they ohm'd out good because I had spares (a bad speed sensor is most likely your problem OP), swapped the DME because I had a spare. Next step for me is to vacuum/ smoke test it but because it sounds so strong before it dies I highly doubt that's the problem, any input would be greatly appreciated.

Bellow are 3 things you should do OP and get back to us, mean while I'll continue to figure out my car, guess I'll start at the MAF like you guys above are suggesting, though I tried running the car with it completely out and unplugged and it didn't fix the problem, and the car should run with it completely removed, poorly, and have a check engine light on.

[jlevie]

My first suspects would be intake leaks or a problem with the ICV. A more comprehensive list of possibilities can be seen at http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...5&postcount=12

[jeffnhiscars]

If the icv is suspect then so is the tps.

[KIRIEIW]

I just bought the car a few weeks ago, non runner. Today I pulled the aftermarket alarm system and checked for fuel quantity using the cup method the Bentley talks about, pumped out plenty of fuel.

Checked the ICV and it was fine, would click when you turned the key to the on position. Looks like eta's don't have the constant "humming"/ vibration like the 325i's have unless the one in my eta's messed up. Ohm tested fine and I cleaned it out with brake cleaner for the kicks. I also took the AFM out, interesting enough the intake boot it connects too was saturated with fuel, literally dripping out gas which is telling me the cold start injectors working. Oh! I also took a spark plug out, it had fuel on it/ was wet. I grounded it to the manifold and had someone crank it and it's defiantly getting a nice white spark. That's where I'm at at this point.

[superj]

On the car i just fixed, it was the sensor in the transmission. What are those two called that read of the flywheel?

[KIRIEIW]

On the car i just fixed, it was the sensor in the transmission. What are those two called that read of the flywheel?

The speed sensor/ pulse sensor.


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[KIRIEIW]

Starts then dies

Ok Update: I replaced the MAF with no luck. I ohm tested the TPS and it tested out good. I ran out of ideas and started disconnecting crap knowing the ECU would most likely run on a open loop setting, and I was right. With the coolant temp sensor disconnected the car runs. Crappy, but it runs. It misfires badly when you tap the throttle from idle, I did drive it around the block for the kicks and it made it home with out stalling.

So with that said, I was assuming the coolant temp sensor must be faulty, but the one in the car ohm'd out in spec. I had a spare so I replaced it anyways, and same thing was happening. Would start and run for a second and die. As soon as I disconnected the plug to the sensor and tried to start it again, it fired right up. Still got some more diagnosing to do but that's where I'm at after today.


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[jhaw]

Update: Car is running now, It was the AFM not being plugged in properly. Thanks for everyone that suggested it.

[E30xium]

Hmm.. I am having the same issue. The fuel hose going into the fuel rail was leaking a lot fuel (hose had a big crack on it) so I replaced that. Then, I decided to replaced the AFM along with ICV (from L-shape to T-shape) and intake boot for the T-shape ICV because I've been having an idle surge issue after then engine is WARM when I start it back up. It goes away after I drive off into first gear.

The E30 does exactly that. I start it up and not even for a sec, it dies. Sorry to thread-jack, but when I get the chance after the holiday, I'll diagnose the issue and isolate the problem one by one. I'm guessing it's the ICV. Hopefully I can solve the issue and give an update.

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[KIRIEIW]

Well the car was acting fine yesterday when I started it for 5min, so I decided to drive it to work. It made it threw 3 red lights (long idle periods) and of course the entire 10-15min trip to work with no issues whats so ever.

I did a couple maintenance items later on in the evening at work before leaving, oil change and spark plugs to be specific. As soon as I was about to leave my works parking lot it stalls. I tried at lease 10 times to start it and I finally got it running again, extremely poorly (by luck..). It wanted to stall whenever I'd hit the throttle peddle so I decided to let it idle for 15min to warm up to operating temp. When I came back out to the car and put it into gear all was fine, drove fine the entire 10min trip home.

I think at this point I need to smoke test it for vacuum leaks, too bad I don't own a smoke tester.