Hey guys. I have one of those lack of power issues, that the m20 is kinda known to have. I am just looking for at home test to check for issues. I will say, I do have plans to buy a multimeter and fuel pressure tester. I do not have the funding for another week... 2 weeks vacation (unpaid) has hindered the budget. I have also lost a lot of my tools recently too. (damn local druggies)
Onto the point though!
Let me try and describe my issue. Only warm and at WOT. Small cutout, more akin to a stumble than a straight miss?
Here are a few questions.
I have heard that if the ICV is disconnected the RPMs are supposed to raise?
Am I going to have any issues disconnecting things to check for any issue? What can I just unplug and listen for changes?
How do I test a bad coolant temp sensor?
I have sprayed MAF cleaner all around the intake boot and manifold. No RPM jumps.
The issue happens above 5k and most below 2k, can someone please confirm if the MAF is useless at this range? Heard the 1.3 does use that signal anymore.
I adjusted the valves about two weeks ago. No help.
This is the list of things I am going to be doing next week while the driveshaft is out (being replaced with 1310 joints).
New Bosch Copper Plugs. Fuel Filter. Bosch Fuel Filter. Adjust valves again. Compression test and FPR test? The FPR vacuum hose is somewhat rotted, but no 'visible' holes. Could this be a culprit? Can I use any clear hose as a temp fix?
The car was sold to me with a 'JC' chip in the add. I took it with a grain of salt and fed her with 89 anyway. Could this be an issue a year later? I will pull the 1.3 apart and check for any tampering.
Just looking for things to add to the list while the e30 is down?
Stomp test shows code 1222, if that helps anyone. My ass can tell me everything that code does.
------ Long story short, it was the dist/rotor. Swapped TPS for a smooth idle afterward!! Stoked!
Onto the point though!
Let me try and describe my issue. Only warm and at WOT. Small cutout, more akin to a stumble than a straight miss?
Here are a few questions.
I have heard that if the ICV is disconnected the RPMs are supposed to raise?
Am I going to have any issues disconnecting things to check for any issue? What can I just unplug and listen for changes?
How do I test a bad coolant temp sensor?
I have sprayed MAF cleaner all around the intake boot and manifold. No RPM jumps.
The issue happens above 5k and most below 2k, can someone please confirm if the MAF is useless at this range? Heard the 1.3 does use that signal anymore.
I adjusted the valves about two weeks ago. No help.
This is the list of things I am going to be doing next week while the driveshaft is out (being replaced with 1310 joints).
New Bosch Copper Plugs. Fuel Filter. Bosch Fuel Filter. Adjust valves again. Compression test and FPR test? The FPR vacuum hose is somewhat rotted, but no 'visible' holes. Could this be a culprit? Can I use any clear hose as a temp fix?
The car was sold to me with a 'JC' chip in the add. I took it with a grain of salt and fed her with 89 anyway. Could this be an issue a year later? I will pull the 1.3 apart and check for any tampering.
Just looking for things to add to the list while the e30 is down?

Stomp test shows code 1222, if that helps anyone. My ass can tell me everything that code does.
------ Long story short, it was the dist/rotor. Swapped TPS for a smooth idle afterward!! Stoked!
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