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    Nuke Cam Sprocket Question

    Quick question for Nuke adjustable cam sprocket users:
    The ignition rotor shields don't fit with the Nuke sprocket. Do you just run without them? Any problems with arcing to the sprocket? Thanks

    #2
    Just delete the plastic shield, it's not required and I never had any issues.

    You might have to countersink the two seal retaining bolts they can clash with the back of the gear
    89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...

    new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505

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      #3
      since this thread about adj. cam sprocket.....

      to compensate for shaved block and get timing back to where it spec'd to be.....
      Timing mark on adjustable gear has to advance back so it's aligned with the head mark? In case of Nuke gear: after the mark is aligned with the head, its vernier scale will show how many degrees it had to move to go back to spec. Am I understanding this correctly?

      Another question: Does TB teeth line up better with VAC or Nuke cam? Which one would your recommend? Looks like there about the same price once you add ignition rotor adapter. Speaking about this adapter...one can use stock rotor setup without that option?

      sorry for all these questions

      Comment


        #4
        no, if you align crank gear/dampener mark to TDC on the block/timing cover and the Cam gear mark is out compared to the cylinder head mark it will never be possible to align both cam and crank markings no matter how much you adjust it.

        to correct a retarded position what you do is move the inner hub portion of the gear (part cam is connected to) without disturbing the crank position CW the same amount its offset from the cylinder head mark but in the opposite direction to get it back to "straight up". you can only rotate the cam CW otherwise you risk loosening the cam bolt.

        you can also do the same thing by rotating the crank CCW (without disturbing cam) to achieve the same offset as viewed on cam. depending if you move cam or crank you move the same linear amount but the angle movement is different by a factor of 2. if you remove the spark plugs and put it in neutral its relatively easy to move crank and rotating it backwards a bit wont hurt anything (see warning below)

        the vernier mark will tell you how far out it is but thats in cam degrees (note: cam spins half rpm as crank)

        there was a issue with nuke gears teeth being off, this has been rectified, depending where you buy you could still get a dodgey one. IE know of the issue so theirs should be good

        NB: ALWAYS MAKE SURE YOU HAVE ENOUGH PISTON TO VALVE CLEARANCE BEFORE MAKING ADJUSTMENTS
        Last edited by digger; 01-24-2017, 03:36 PM.
        89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...

        new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505

        Comment


          #5
          this timing mark business makes me nervous. I got used to vw diesels where everything (crank, cam, injection pump) gets locked with special tools at TDC so there is no second guessing.

          Just trying to visualize it. With shaved block scenario: cam gear at TDC mark and vernier lined up (oem setting). Crank at TDC and locked. Once the belt is installed, cam gear will move by the belt tension CCW away from the head mark by X degrees. To advance it back, cam gear center section will need to move CW by the same X degrees past the vernier mark. Does this sound like I understood it correctly? I'm just trying to understand this in my head right now. I am planning to use a degree wheel to set the cam.

          Also any experience with dbilas cam gears? current euro to dollar rate makes them very attractive option.

          Comment


            #6
            yes, tbh a degree here or there doesn't matter often.

            most who set timing do so with degree wheel and dial indicator so they set the cam centreline at a certain position relative to TDC e.g. inlet lobe at 110* ATDC. others will set if with certain lift at TDC e.g 2.0mm. you can ofcourse just use it to get the same position equivalent to the markings being perfect but on some cams the pin might be slighty out or setup a certain way...

            you can run it different positions to see what it runs best at anyway so the actual position you set it at in someways is not that important. However its better to know the actual position as it can help with working out some things. for example mine is supposed to be at 110 ICL but it is set up advanced about 6degrees at the moment but i cant be certain what the actual initial position was correct so is it really now set at 104* or is it 108 because the original position happened to be 114 as i never took a whole bunch of time to measure accurate enough but it was a rush install...
            Last edited by digger; 01-24-2017, 08:41 PM.
            89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...

            new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505

            Comment

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