Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Ireland Engineering 272 regrind camshaft

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Ireland Engineering 272 regrind camshaft

    I was wondering if anyone is running a regrind camshaft from Ireland Engineering. I've heard good and bad about them and I'm currently in the process of rebuilding me E30 and would love a cam but I'm ballin on a budget and you can't beat $190 for a regrind. I have a 87 325E and am doing the 885 head swap and I've called and they said they can regrind the Eta cam the same way they'd regrind the 885 cam. Reason for me having them do that is because I've already stripped my trashed eta head and have the cam bare and would rather not mess up my 885 head as it was hard to come by and instead of me taking the head to a machine shop, telling them to give me the cam, then wait for IE to do their regrind and then go back to the machine shop would take ages.

    tl;dr - Ballin on a budget, Ireland Engineering 272 regrind - go or no go?

    #2
    The eta cam won't work in an 885 head- it's missing a couple of bearings.

    i think.

    Isn't it?

    t

    who uses

    locally
    now, sometimes I just mess with people. It's more entertaining that way. george graves

    Comment


      #3
      As Toby said, it won't work, and isn't a good idea anyways. The eta cam is not nearly as good as the "i" cam for a regrind, plus if you put an eta cam in an 885 head, the missing bearing journals on the cam would allow you to lose all your oil out of the passages.

      tl:dr no, it won't work. :P
      john@m20guru.com
      Links:
      Transaction feedback: Here, here and here. Thanks :D

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by samaroo View Post
        .. and would rather not mess up my 885 head..
        How would this mess up the head?

        You can probably get a regrind from them with a core charge, then send them the stock cam after you receive the reground one. Call them, they will help you.
        Drive it hard. Maintain it well.


        Convertible Technical & Discussion
        A Topless Memorandum

        Comment


          #5
          Appreciate the input guys and glad yall said something about the cam being different. I don't want to break down my 885 head because I tore my eta head up while taking it apart such as bashing the rocker arm shaft to shit to get it out. I guess I'll have a machine shop strip the head, change the valve seals and see if they'll be cool with waiting for IE to regrind it and send it back. Thanks again yall!

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by samaroo View Post
            ...and see if they'll be cool with waiting for IE to regrind it and send it back. Thanks again yall!
            Dude, just pay the core charge, and ship yours back to them when the machine shop is done swapping the cam out. No waiting.

            Don't forget you need new rocker arms as well with a new cam, otherwise you will ruin it.
            Drive it hard. Maintain it well.


            Convertible Technical & Discussion
            A Topless Memorandum

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by samaroo View Post
              bashing the rocker arm shaft to shit to get it out.
              It's sad, but I even see machine shops sometimes beat them out and mushroom the ends. The rocker shafts will slide out easily if you remove all the rocker retaining clips, then slide the rockers off the lobes as you rotate the cam and when you have them in the correct position, all the rockers will be loose on the shafts. Then the shafts slide right out since there's no spring tension on them. Worst part is the rocker shafts are NLA right now, so I have to buy NOS from other places at full price vs getting them from the wholesale suppliers. :(
              john@m20guru.com
              Links:
              Transaction feedback: Here, here and here. Thanks :D

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by ForcedFirebird View Post
                It's sad, but I even see machine shops sometimes beat them out and mushroom the ends. The rocker shafts will slide out easily if you remove all the rocker retaining clips, then slide the rockers off the lobes as you rotate the cam and when you have them in the correct position, all the rockers will be loose on the shafts. Then the shafts slide right out since there's no spring tension on them. Worst part is the rocker shafts are NLA right now, so I have to buy NOS from other places at full price vs getting them from the wholesale suppliers. :(
                x2. rockeshafts should come out easily if one is doing it correctly. If you can't push it with your fingers or a piece of wooden dowel by hand ...STOP.... something is being done wrong. Bentley manual explains how to arrange rockers to get the tension of the shaft (pretty sure it's in there). It's exactly like one of those rubik's cubes .... use your head, not blunt force. You can also cheat by using something to keep valves open (e.g. thick piece of rope between the valve and its seat).
                Last edited by zaq123; 03-10-2017, 08:53 PM.

                Comment


                  #9
                  The rocker shafts will slide out easily
                  IF the head is not warped... And there's not 20 years of varnish and sludge on 'em.

                  t
                  now, sometimes I just mess with people. It's more entertaining that way. george graves

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by TobyB View Post
                    IF the head is not warped... And there's not 20 years of varnish and sludge on 'em.

                    t
                    Even then, they don't require "beating". At most a rubber mallet and wood dowel, but I find if you do a preliminary cleaning, the sludge isn't an issue. If the head is so warped that the shafts bind, then the head need to be straightened (not to be confused with milling), otherwise when they are shaved the quench will be wrong on some cylinders, and the cam journals will score when "rebuilt".
                    john@m20guru.com
                    Links:
                    Transaction feedback: Here, here and here. Thanks :D

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by TobyB View Post
                      IF the head is not warped... And there's not 20 years of varnish and sludge on 'em.

                      t
                      To make the story short....One has to make sure that the shaft has no load from the rockers/valve springs before removing it. That's basicly should do it. A lot of people don't want to figure out how to achieve the above and just beat the living crap out of it.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by zaq123 View Post
                        To make the story short....One has to make sure that the shaft has no load from the rockers/valve springs before removing it. That's basicly should do it. A lot of people don't want to figure out how to achieve the above and just beat the living crap out of it.
                        Another thing to mention if reusing old shafts...maybe it will help someone....
                        if you disassemble/assemble rockers on the shaft, check the shaft for burrs in the area (slots) where rocker clamp clips onto the shaft. Also check if there are burrs at the slot where the locking bracket sits. Most likely the above will be present on your used shafts. I've noticed that the bracket and rocker clamps can create micro burrs that can scratch bronze bushings in your new rockers and provide some resistance when assembling your head.
                        Test fit your new rockers on the shaft..if they do not slide smooth across the shaft, you know what areas to keep an eye on. The should slide freely, do not force them on. Also check the Bantley in regards to checking for the rocker play using the dial gauge.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by zaq123 View Post
                          Another thing to mention if reusing old shafts...maybe it will help someone....
                          if you disassemble/assemble rockers on the shaft, check the shaft for burrs in the area (slots) where rocker clamp clips onto the shaft. Also check if there are burrs at the slot where the locking bracket sits. Most likely the above will be present on your used shafts. I've noticed that the bracket and rocker clamps can create micro burrs that can scratch bronze bushings in your new rockers and provide some resistance when assembling your head.
                          Test fit your new rockers on the shaft..if they do not slide smooth across the shaft, you know what areas to keep an eye on. The should slide freely, do not force them on. Also check the Bantley in regards to checking for the rocker play using the dial gauge.
                          Yuppers. I use a small fine file and rub the edges of the rocker retaining clip slots before disassembly. Metric Mechanic suggests using steel wool to polish the shafts back up, but I find 1000+ grit sand paper works great.
                          john@m20guru.com
                          Links:
                          Transaction feedback: Here, here and here. Thanks :D

                          Comment


                            #14
                            My rocker shafts definitely were a tight fit had to be tapped in with a rubber mallet. But i checked everything for straightness with a straight edge and everything and it all checked out. Rockers didn't get chewed up either. No issue so far but will find out eventually.


                            1989 325is l 1984 euro 320i l 1970 2002 Racecar
                            1991 318i 4dr slick top


                            Euro spec 320i/Alpina B6 3.5 project(the never ending saga)
                            Vintage race car revival (2002 content)
                            Mtech 2 turbo restoration
                            Brilliantrot slick top "build"

                            Comment

                            Working...
                            X