Dbilas camshaft

[zaq123]

I recall etched numbers on it. Don't remember exact number but I think it matched up to 276 cam paperwork part number. Really don't want to pull the cam again, number is on the plug side....not the gear side.
2.9L 10:1 with long Bavauto headers and possible itb kit in the future. Head had Supertech valve fitted with zero port work.
would you run this cam? Should I give it a shot or it will perform terrible? would you run .25mm valve clearance or try 0.2mm as Dbilas suggest for their 284 cam?

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To sum it up: Looks like lobe separation is 112EX;114IN. Valve lift with 0.25mm clearance -11.7mm; 1.6mm lift at TDC, Duration: 284??????


here are 0.04" (1mm) numbers: EX side: -231EO/7EC................IN side: -5IO/233IC
here are 0.003" numbers: EX: -250EO/29EC..............IN side:-25IO/255IC

Rechecked 1st cyl one more time, making sure that dial gauge is reading accurately. Pretty much the same results as before: at 0.04": IN 53/3, 115LSA; EX 50/8, 111LSA


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[ForcedFirebird]

Personally, I would break in the engine with the stock injectors and ECU. A car came in from another shop, rebuilt engine, ran for a very short time, came to me for no start. Turned out the cyl walls were washed and completely polished from them just trying to start it. The cam break in, then ring seating won't need more than stock, and should even be a little lean (safer than a rich break in). Plus whenever doing a new build, I try and keep the old system if possible - you know it worked, so it will eliminate any guesswork or diagnosing at startup. Always a great idea if you can monitor AFR's too. I have an Innovative WB made to work stand alone to put in tailpipes (or bung if available), one of my favorite tools.