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    #16
    So let's take a step back from this a minute....

    The car started and ran for a few minutes and then quit again, so what was missing here ?

    Are you getting 12v at fuse 11 when cranking the engine ? That at least proves the fuel pump relay is working, the CPS is reading the reluctor gear, the DME is getting power and is switching on fuel pump power.

    Likewise are you still getting spark at the plugs ?

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      #17
      Originally posted by Seawolf View Post
      So let's take a step back from this a minute....

      The car started and ran for a few minutes and then quit again, so what was missing here ?

      Are you getting 12v at fuse 11 when cranking the engine ? That at least proves the fuel pump relay is working, the CPS is reading the reluctor gear, the DME is getting power and is switching on fuel pump power.

      Likewise are you still getting spark at the plugs ?
      I'm not sure what is missing. I will check voltage at the fuse. I back probed the fuel pump connector at the cap and it is receiving 12v.

      Still getting spark. Although, I'm not sure if the repetition of the spark is the proper amount. It's hard to describe over PC. It's like spark... Spark.. Spark. Unlike Spark. Spark. Spark. Is that understandable?
      20% Accurate

      Morty: Well Summer maybe people that create things aren’t concerned with your delicate sensibilities you know? Maybe the species that communicate with each other through a filter of your comfort are less evolved that the ones that just communicate? Maybe your problems are your own to deal with and maybe the public giving a shit about your feelings is a one way ticket to extinction.

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        #18
        If you are getting 12v at the pump when cranking with the fuel pump relay installed then that pretty much proves the CPS, fuel pump relay, DME fuel delivery and fuel pump wiring are all working.

        Staying with the fuel side of things for a moment, are you getting fuel feed at the rail ? Ideally a dead end and inline fuel pressure test will prove the pump to be delivering the correct fuel pressure.

        If you're getting spark....spark.....spark, this just might be a dying ignition coil and could explain the engine cutting after a few minutes of running and the coil heats up....maybe.

        You can test the coil with a DMM, resistance between the outer terminals should be .5 ohms and 5k ohms between the + and the center terminal.

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          #19
          Unfortunately a simple resistance test won't always be telltale of a bad ign coil-- it can be in spec but not working. Its ability to properly load and unload a charge needs to be tested with more involved equipment. I would wait until your new CPS comes in and test that before replacing or ordering anymore parts however.

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            #20
            The Seawolf and the Squid, you guys are awesome!

            I am receiving fuel to the rail. I have removed the line and filled a mason jar with just a very brief run.

            The coil test at .6 ohms on the outer terminals. I do not recall the + and center terminal readings at this time. Is there a definitive test for the coil? Other than swapping a known working unit.
            20% Accurate

            Morty: Well Summer maybe people that create things aren’t concerned with your delicate sensibilities you know? Maybe the species that communicate with each other through a filter of your comfort are less evolved that the ones that just communicate? Maybe your problems are your own to deal with and maybe the public giving a shit about your feelings is a one way ticket to extinction.

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              #21
              As others suggested, is this heat-related? You have fuel, you have spark, then it quits as it warms up? Would the temp sensors cause it to run poorly but not quit like this? We had some early problems with quitting after a few minutes, and finally tried another ECU to solve it.

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                #22
                I do believe that it is heat related. As it died the last time though, I can rarely get a start out of it. I don't believe the temp sensor could cause a no start condition. I thought of that though and attempted to start it without the cts a few times as well.

                I have been able to have it running, let it idle for a few minutes and it shuts off. There not really any hesitation or consideration from the car, just says nope.
                20% Accurate

                Morty: Well Summer maybe people that create things aren’t concerned with your delicate sensibilities you know? Maybe the species that communicate with each other through a filter of your comfort are less evolved that the ones that just communicate? Maybe your problems are your own to deal with and maybe the public giving a shit about your feelings is a one way ticket to extinction.

                Comment

                  #23
                  "Is there a definitive test for the coil?"

                  Squid is correct, a DMM resistance test isn't absolute proof that the coil is good or bad, it's just a test for coils that are really bad. Worth checking while you're waiting for that CPS, though you wouldn't be getting 12v at the fuel pump, fuel delivery or any kind of spark if the CPS was the root cause.

                  I also concur on not throwing parts at the problem, that can get expensive. So you're getting fuel delivery though of unknown pressure. And you have some kind of spark there.

                  But the car doesn't start...

                  Have you tried firing some starter fluid into the intake ? Interested to hear what happens and might help with further diagnosis. If she starts up then it would indicate a problem with fuel preparation (e.g. injector circuit).

                  Maybe....

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                    #24
                    I called trying to return the CPS but it already shipped. Still will be worth it for trouble shooting.

                    I was planning to try starter fluid tonight if I can leave work early enough.

                    I have a friend who has a e28 528. Will cross reference parts numbers and try to borrow a coil. I will update if I find any nuggets.
                    20% Accurate

                    Morty: Well Summer maybe people that create things aren’t concerned with your delicate sensibilities you know? Maybe the species that communicate with each other through a filter of your comfort are less evolved that the ones that just communicate? Maybe your problems are your own to deal with and maybe the public giving a shit about your feelings is a one way ticket to extinction.

                    Comment

                      #25
                      Solved. CPS solved the issue! Fired right up, multiple times. Then drove me 30 miles home!

                      Thanks for the help guys!!
                      20% Accurate

                      Morty: Well Summer maybe people that create things aren’t concerned with your delicate sensibilities you know? Maybe the species that communicate with each other through a filter of your comfort are less evolved that the ones that just communicate? Maybe your problems are your own to deal with and maybe the public giving a shit about your feelings is a one way ticket to extinction.

                      Comment

                        #26
                        I was just about to weigh in on the CPS side since we just had a no warm start problem that was fixed with a new CPS (reference sensor on our ETA but same thing).

                        I tracked resistance as the engine cooled and everything seemed within spec so when you have a start goblin with no obvious cause, swap the CPS.

                        Glad you got this. We took 2 weeks to sort
                        Seat Shocks....I have passed the baton to John Christy from Ninestitch. Email John or Garrett at ninestitch1@gmail.com

                        https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...86#post4944786
                        Alice the Time Capsule
                        http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=360504
                        87 Zinno Cabrio barn find 98k and still smells like a barn. Build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...20#post3455220

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                          #27
                          I'm just happy it's alive again. I saw the description on the parts sites that reads "If your e30 is not starting, this is likely the culprit". So I decided why not, mines twice out of spec.

                          My e30 has a big daily haul and needs to be ready for it! It is not allowed to sit. hahah. Only took a week with shipping the part too!
                          20% Accurate

                          Morty: Well Summer maybe people that create things aren’t concerned with your delicate sensibilities you know? Maybe the species that communicate with each other through a filter of your comfort are less evolved that the ones that just communicate? Maybe your problems are your own to deal with and maybe the public giving a shit about your feelings is a one way ticket to extinction.

                          Comment

                            #28
                            Originally posted by HerbE30 View Post
                            I'm not sure what is missing. I will check voltage at the fuse. I back probed the fuel pump connector at the cap and it is receiving 12v.
                            I've been trying to figure out my fueling issues for the past two years. I left my car sitting for a year and now when I try to start it, the fuel line is bone dry. I believe I checked all the electrical last time I trouble shot the problem...but just to make sure...

                            So I need to turn the key to on and try and crank it while checking for 12v in one of the two wires in that two pronged plug back at the fuel pump?

                            Can I just put a 9v up to it and see if it's actually operable anymore?

                            I don't even drive it anymore but I have to get it to our new house in a month or so. I'm tempted to just drop a line from a universal pump down the hatch and drive it up on a trailer or down the street.
                            Das ist nicht nur nicht richtig, es ist nicht einmal falsch!

                            Comment

                              #29
                              If you don't think the pump is operating. You can jump the relay and that would be quicker and louder without excessive other noises.

                              http://bigcoupe.com/phpBB2/files/relay_jumpers_193_114.jpeg


                              Not sure about the 9V trick, I would think not. Still easier to jump the relay.
                              20% Accurate

                              Morty: Well Summer maybe people that create things aren’t concerned with your delicate sensibilities you know? Maybe the species that communicate with each other through a filter of your comfort are less evolved that the ones that just communicate? Maybe your problems are your own to deal with and maybe the public giving a shit about your feelings is a one way ticket to extinction.

                              Comment

                                #30
                                OK, thanks. If I turn the key to on, jump the fuel pump relay, and I get nothing at the pump under the rear bench then the pump is dead for sure.
                                Das ist nicht nur nicht richtig, es ist nicht einmal falsch!

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