Hello, I am going to be replacing the front crank and intermediate seals soon when I do the TB replacement. When you remove the lower timing housing to replace the seals I haven't been able to find a clear answer on what you should be doing when putting the housing back on. I have seen people say use RTV to make a gasket but aren't those sold and easily obtainable? Or are these supposed to be used together? (gasket with rtv on both sides) Forgive my ignorance as I am new to the M20 (and BMW in general).
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Are you talking about this?
when i did my front main seal i didnt remove that timing cover at all, Im pretty sure you will have to remove the sump to remove that timing cover, big job. There are various methods to removing lip seals, but my favourite is to drill a tiny hole in the lip seal itself (~2mm), and screw in a long self tapping screw (like a wood screw). then use the screw to remove the seal. I did mine with the engine out, so i had plenty of access though. Whatever you do don't damage the crank or intermediate shafts trying to wedge the seal out with a screw driver, else you will forever have an oil leak. -
Yup! Parts 8 and 9. From what I keep seeing people and how I am reading it people are replacing item 9 with RTV/Gasket maker and I just must be reading it wrong because that sounds...well stupid tbh. So are they just adding that too the gasket for a better seal orrr? And from my research it doesn't look like you have to drop the sump. There are 3 bolts that you have to remove holding the pan to the block and then that housing comes right out (when you remove its hardware as well of course). I considered just trying to pull them by hand but for that exact reason kinda feared damaging them and leaned towards just following what people keep saying is called for in the Bentley/haynes manuals.Originally posted by e30davie View PostComment
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I've done this without removing the pan but there are 2 challenges. First is that you are likely to damage the front section of the pan gasket where it meets the bottom of the timing cover seal. In my case I took a new paper seal (same as what was already there), sliced off the front section and used Ptex2 on the bottom only to hold it on the front of the pan.
Second is there are locating dowels on the fron of the block for the TC to slide on. That means you have no up and down play when placing the cover which risks dislodging the new section of the pan gasket you just installed.
It doable with some finesseSeat Shocks....I have passed the baton to John Christy from Ninestitch. Email John or Garrett at ninestitch1@gmail.com
https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...86#post4944786
Alice the Time Capsule
http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=360504
87 Zinno Cabrio barn find 98k and still smells like a barn. Build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...20#post3455220Comment
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Pull the dowels out of the block/cover. The holes in the cover are large enough that the dowels can be inserted AFTER the cover is in place ;)Originally posted by jeffnhiscars View Post
So, when only changing the front over, I will use a little Right Stuff on the cover, set it in place diagonally so both surfaces contact at the same time, then insert dowels, then bolts. Don't forget to make sure the crank seal didn't "flip" on the inside rim, and if the crank has a groove, move the seal slightly, or tighten the spring a few coils if it's an aftermarket seal.Comment
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Ok thank you! That is helpful. Is this the "right stuff" or should I be getting a different version of it? https://www.permatex.com/products/ga...e-gasket-grey/Originally posted by ForcedFirebird View PostComment
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