Oil pan gasket replacement: looking for tips

[zaq123]

I'm not sure, although I've read that lots of enthusiasts for other car makes use toyota fipg as well (same with hondabond), and that designing car parts around a specific sealant when RTV is readily available seems limiting?

The only Hondabond can be used a liquid gasket is Hondabond HT. You are describing Hondabond 4 which is not to be used for a gasketless applications.

Here is HT instructions


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[Das Delfin]

Is the Toyota stuff like that because they usually have a groove in one of the flanges that gets filled? Fully torquing immediately would squeeze it down to nothing?

I'm not sure, although I've read that lots of enthusiasts for other car makes use toyota fipg as well (same with hondabond), and that designing car parts around a specific sealant when RTV is readily available seems limiting?

[CharlieVu]

So everything well today. No leaks or anything but as I tried to get the engine mounts back on I noticed one mount was damaged beyond repair. The PO actually siliconed it back together but it split on me. My intake boot tore as well. Didn’t try to start the car. I just filled the fluids and will be ordering new mounts.

Will most likely turbo the car next summer so what mounts should I get?!




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[digger]

Well, as per RTV instructions you would wait 1 hour before final torque, but I used Toyota FIPG which allows full torque right away.




it's great! Finally got the oil pan on with a new production paper gasket!

Is the Toyota stuff like that because they usually have a groove in one of the flanges that gets filled? Fully torquing immediately would squeeze it down to nothing?

[Das Delfin]

are you guys nipping it up lightly, waiting for full cure then final torque?

Well, as per RTV instructions you would wait 1 hour before final torque, but I used Toyota FIPG which allows full torque right away.

Just curious-- how is this holding up?

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it's great! Finally got the oil pan on with a new production paper gasket!

[15Michaeljoseph]

I recently did mine with a harbor freight engine support bar, Toyota fipg, a jack and stands. I left my oil pump in place. You may have to lower the subframe slightly but I don't think I did. I used the support bar so I had more room to work underneath than a hoist would offer, which was helpful when guiding a pan with wet fipg up between the subframe and oil pump. You are going to need to unbolt the motor mounts to raise the engine to get more room, so you may as well replace those and their nuts. I didn't replace my tranny mounts (or even loosen them) but you could. You'll want to undo the clips for the fan shroud as well or your fan will prob break when you raise the motor

You'll want like 3 cans of brake clean and a buttload of shop towels as well as some e torx sockets for the piece that bolts into the tranny

You could clean out the oil pump filter screen while you're in there. If you use rtv or fipg let the motor sit for a whole day before adding oil or trying to start it. The toyota stuff I used says you can start the motor in 2 hours but I let it sit til the next day just to be safe.

It's a pain in the ass and takes forever but it's oddly satisfying that you only have to worry about one major thing the whole time

Just curious-- how is this holding up?

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[digger]

are you guys nipping it up lightly, waiting for full cure then final torque?

[CharlieVu]

Man that was fun.... got it all back together. Going to let us sit and mate over night and retighten in the morning. Hopefully no more leaks!


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[packratbimmer]

If you find that lowering the subframe is helpful, find some longer bolts so you can keep the subframe in place - just lower. Remove a pair or bolts at a time and replace with the long ones. Works great for clutch jobs as well.

[zwill23]

Same with me, I've always used RTV "The Right Stuff" and have never had an issue with my oil pan or rear diff cover.

It's so much easier than trying to line up the cork gasket

[e30austin]

I always use BMW flange sealant (made by Loctite) in place of any BMW oil pan gasket. Never have any leaks.

83 19 0 404 517 - one tube will do the job, no problem, and you'll have enough left over to do your differential cover, or something.

Best,
e30austin

[CharlieVu]

I recently did mine with a harbor freight engine support bar, Toyota fipg, a jack and stands. I left my oil pump in place. You may have to lower the subframe slightly but I don't think I did. I used the support bar so I had more room to work underneath than a hoist would offer, which was helpful when guiding a pan with wet fipg up between the subframe and oil pump. You are going to need to unbolt the motor mounts to raise the engine to get more room, so you may as well replace those and their nuts. I didn't replace my tranny mounts (or even loosen them) but you could. You'll want to undo the clips for the fan shroud as well or your fan will prob break when you raise the motor

You'll want like 3 cans of brake clean and a buttload of shop towels as well as some e torx sockets for the piece that bolts into the tranny

You could clean out the oil pump filter screen while you're in there. If you use rtv or fipg let the motor sit for a whole day before adding oil or trying to start it. The toyota stuff I used says you can start the motor in 2 hours but I let it sit til the next day just to be safe.

It's a pain in the ass and takes forever but it's oddly satisfying that you only have to worry about one major thing the whole time

Thanks man! Yea dude I got it out finally and man I let it sit in a tub of purple power and hot water and then got to scrubbing. Ended up using all three brake fluids cans I had lying around and the oil just sediments just melted off. How did you apply the toyobond? Been reading people are using just a dab on the corners to keep it in place.


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[Das Delfin]

I recently did mine with a harbor freight engine support bar, Toyota fipg, a jack and stands. I left my oil pump in place. You may have to lower the subframe slightly but I don't think I did. I used the support bar so I had more room to work underneath than a hoist would offer, which was helpful when guiding a pan with wet fipg up between the subframe and oil pump. You are going to need to unbolt the motor mounts to raise the engine to get more room, so you may as well replace those and their nuts. I didn't replace my tranny mounts (or even loosen them) but you could. You'll want to undo the clips for the fan shroud as well or your fan will prob break when you raise the motor

You'll want like 3 cans of brake clean and a buttload of shop towels as well as some e torx sockets for the piece that bolts into the tranny

You could clean out the oil pump filter screen while you're in there. If you use rtv or fipg let the motor sit for a whole day before adding oil or trying to start it. The toyota stuff I used says you can start the motor in 2 hours but I let it sit til the next day just to be safe.

It's a pain in the ass and takes forever but it's oddly satisfying that you only have to worry about one major thing the whole time

[CharlieVu]

Kuril 2 and paper is what I used and its as good as it gets IMO. If you happen to be doing a timing belt at the same time its a great oppty to replace the front main seal as well since that does typically damage the oil pan gasket.

Thank you! I did the timing belt back in March but will look into the main seal. Don’t remember replacing that. Will get some kuril 2


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[jeffnhiscars]

Kuril 2 and paper is what I used and its as good as it gets IMO. If you happen to be doing a timing belt at the same time its a great oppty to replace the front main seal as well since that does typically damage the oil pan gasket.