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Should I pull the head

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    #16
    I agree that if there is a problem with sealing that cutting the valves proper way to fix that. I am of the mindset that valves can be checked at home hydrostatically for most intents and purposes. I also agree that there is always a "proper way to do things," and there is also excess for street cars that are running fine. However, I don't agree that skimming a head for good head gasket contact comes before new rocker arms that can fatigue, for example.

    In essence, I think that some work is overkill depending on the scope of the core project (replacing leaking seals). As I said, I'm not an expert and, like you, just giving my opinion.
    '84 318i M10B18 147- Safari Beige
    NA: 93whp/90ftlbs, MS2E w/ LC, 2-Step
    Turbo: 221whp/214ftlbs, MS3x flex @ 17psi

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      #17
      Originally posted by zaq123 View Post
      Have you ever seen how valves and seats get conceived after lapping and only inner and outer edges make contact.

      Meant to say concaved, not conceived...haha sorry ...stupid autocorrect



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        #18
        Originally posted by Jaxx_ View Post
        I agree that if there is a problem with sealing that cutting the valves proper way to fix that. I am of the mindset that valves can be checked at home hydrostatically ....

        Everything can be checked and left alone if good. But it requires proper equipment which most don’t have or paying for someone’s time which adds to the bill. IMO, after 150k+miles/engine out no need to waste money on checking valves and seats (time = money) ...otherwise you pay them to check and just to find out that they need to be cut. Same goes for the head surface. To check it, one needs to spend time to clean (very carefully) the surface. Just have them put it on machine as is and bingo, you got a perfect surface. Have you looked at the price of head bolts and OEM head gasket? Add your time putting it all back together and later find out that HG does not seal well? Not fun. Valve guides, different story as it’s 10min labor cost to check. Again...this is just mine approach to the subject.




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          #19
          Originally posted by cat97628 View Post
          I am then onto a dash replacement and new leathers.

          Suck that you must have it up and running soon. Otherwise good engine will generally can get you further than good dash and new leathers.



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            #20
            Originally posted by cat97628 View Post
            The engine has 163k miles and hard to say how much oil it consumes vs leaks. I only drive the car a couple hundred miles a year and change the oil in the spring and in the fall. I am really torn on the taking the head off. I know doing it now is the correct way to go about it but I really do not have the time or extra money to put towards doing it right. I have a trip planned for the middle of October and need the car up and running. I would like to get it completed by next weekend and back in the car. I am then onto a dash replacement and new leathers.
            If you can't afford to do it then leave the head on and let sleeping dogs lie
            89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...

            new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505

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              #21
              just leave it for now.
              i would pull it though because it's cheap enough.
              The cost on mine was like $150 to rebuild with a new cam/rockers. 3 angle grind is a standard now.

              They charged me $50 to install new valve springs and eccentrics the visit after that.

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                #22
                163K isn’t particularly high mileage for an m20, and it isn’t that hard to remove the head with the engine in the car if you decide to do it later. I wouldn’t pull the head to preventatively change the head gasket, unless you’re going to get a valve job (as suggested above).
                One thing to check when you have the valve cover off, is that the engine has the newer head bolts with torx heads. If not, they can be swapped one at a time without removing the head.

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                  #23
                  It does have torx bolts


                  '08 E90 328i Sport '04 E53 3.0 '02 E46 325i Sport '91 E30 325ic M-Technic

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                    #24
                    If the car runs well, the gaskets don't leak, and you're happy with the performance now (no noticeable lost power), I'd just leave it. However, if you're not happy with the way it runs, or it's leaking somewhere, or you see uneven wear, you should pull it. And regardless of your decision there, if you do pull it, you should definitely take it to a machine shop and have them clean it up and work it over. If you don't, you may as well not have pulled it in the first place.

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                      #25
                      decided against pulling it for now.


                      '08 E90 328i Sport '04 E53 3.0 '02 E46 325i Sport '91 E30 325ic M-Technic

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                        #26
                        Originally posted by cat97628 View Post
                        decided against pulling it for now.
                        not a bad decision. I pulled the head once too...for the mushroomed valve and worn cam. Long story short: every inch of car inspected, every rust repaired, 2.9L stroker, every new bolt and nut, Alpina interior and trim, currently trying to not over restore it and matching OEM chip guard overspray on the refreshed undercarriage....2 years and a lot of $$$ later.

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