M20 ITB install

[zaq123]

Is this normal not to have much of a thermostat housing to ITB clearance with RHD kit? There will be no way to turn that bolt on the thermostat cover and open the housing. I guess one could remove the whole housing assembly from the head in order to maintain the thermostat. RHD should machine cyl.1 ITB so that bolt could be accessible (in case Rama find this post). It looks like there is a lot of aluminum meat in that area




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[e30davie]

I would just swap that bolt for a socket head capscrew.

[zaq123]

I would just swap that bolt for a socket head capscrew.

But that would be too easy...


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[MrBurgundy]

lol

or an allen head

[SkiFree]

haha...


Another point of reference, when going the M20 triple weber route you end up needing to do a little massaging on thermostat housing cap. Such is life.

[zaq123]

M20 ITB install

What about the lower coolant line from the stat housing interfering with the vacuum line from cyl1? Haven’t fitted lines yet but looks like they are in each others way




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[Lugnuts]

Had that same issue with the barbs. Switched them all to elbow/right angle.

[zaq123]

Had that same issue with the barbs. Switched them all to elbow/right angle.

Where did you pick those up?


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[Lugnuts]

Ebay. Just search for "brass elbow". Can't recall the thread sizes - it's in the BoM/assembly guide.

Edit: 8mm x 1/8 bsp hose tails ?

[zaq123]

M20 ITB install

Ebay

Cool. Thank you for the heads up. Any other things I should look out for? Looks like I will have to fab some brackets to hold stock brackets for the wiring harness and it connectors and the dip stick tube. Should be easy enough


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[Lugnuts]

Going from memory, as I had to revert to stock for non-ITB related reasons. The design may well have changed since I installed mine.

Might sound obvious, but at the time I didn't put 2+2 together (because not-so-bright DIYer). Make sure the ITB butterfly range of movement is fully closed to fully open (90 degrees) through your accelerator pedal movement...I didn't quite get this bit and spent some time trying to understand why the AFR went hellishly rich at WOT (hint: because the butterfly went past 90 and started to close again...).

Good calibration of the airflow for each ITB pair is absolutely essential. I didn't appreciate how sensitive the idle and performance is to them being out by small amounts.

I opted to install a catch can between the valve cover breather and a feed hole I cut in the airbox backing plate, between ITB 3 and 4(?). The power steering reservoir holder/bolt hole is useful for holding a custom bracket.

The large red hose is the ICV feed, running to a mother of a hose barb cut into the airbox backing plate. If you right-angle it correctly, it'll fit between ITB 1 and 2, the engine block and into the backing plate. Makes for a tidy run.

I don't think I did anything with the factory diag plug.

I was going to use this airbox, but the !@#$%^& ABS unit got in the way by the smallest amount. Ideal because there's a threaded hole compatible with the IAT I use on my MS. Would have made it nice and tidy.

https://www.knfilters.com/universal/apollo.htm

I may try and install the kit again sometime...

HTH

[Lugnuts]

I also ended up switching the fuel rail to an earlier (later?) model where the inlet barb sits at the thermostat housing end, rather than next to the firewall. Needed to because I opted to tidy up the injector wiring harness by replacing it with a version where all wires sit inside a plastic housing - it wouldn't play with my original fuel rail. Found a cheap 2nd hand fuel rail on eBay. In case you decide to do the same...

[zaq123]

Helps a lot, thank you for taking the time. What made you to go back to stock, the inspection/emissions?


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[Lugnuts]

Ehhh. A combination of personal circumstances and my car being a semi-DD. Indicated to my wife it'd take about 2 weeks to get the kit installed. 2 months later and I had it almost working. Final nail in the coffin was discovering the TPS signal was really noisy. Don't know why. Tried a couple of different TPS...same result. I had a Nissan GTR one installed previously on the stock TB, and that was perfect so...kinda ran out of time and patience. Getting access to the TPS is nearly impossible when the kits fully installed. The back-and-forth of assembly-balance-dissasembly got a bit tiring. Decided to throw in the towel and...live to fight another day.

Since installed a Penny & Giles contactless TPS on the factory TB. Using this may resolve the noise issue...

[Kershaw]

http://www.cw-industrialgroup.com/Products/Sensors/Rotary-Position-Sensors/Contactless-Throttle-Position-Sensor-Dual-TPS280DP

That one? How does it just swap in? The factory DME reads it? How did you adapt the plug?