Open heart surgery

[Jshbrwr]

You need to get rid of the stamped steel oil pump drive gear.

Also, when installing an m20 belt, I back the crank pulley a tooth, wrap the right side first, then rotate the crank while pulling the belt over the tensioner. The slack needs to be on the left, the right needs to be taut.

When you say taut on the right, you mean drivers side right?

[zaq123]

When you say taut on the right, you mean drivers side right?

Right side is the one without a tensioner, belt needs to be tight between stationary pulleys as its slack can only be absorbed by the tensioner pulley that moves. Compare slotted holes in old/new tensioner pulleys....maybe some knock off tensioner?


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[Jshbrwr]

Right side is the one without a tensioner, belt needs to be tight between stationary pulleys as its slack can only be absorbed by the tensioner pulley that moves. Compare slotted holes in old/new tensioner pulleys....maybe some knock off tensioner?


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So passenger side

And it’s the same tensioner as before. Are these tensioner/spring combos more like a one-time use only item? I realize I haven’t gotten much mileage since the last TB change, but the manual says to inspect not replace. Again, I’m gonna see if I can extend it as far as possible to get some more tension.

Thanks and I’ll let y’all know how it goes in case someone else has the same deal

[zaq123]

So passenger side

And it’s the same tensioner as before. Are these tensioner/spring combos more like a one-time use only item? I realize I haven’t gotten much mileage since the last TB change, but the manual says to inspect not replace. Again, I’m gonna see if I can extend it as far as possible to get some more tension.

Thanks and I’ll let y’all know how it goes in case someone else has the same deal

the side with your finger on it, your 2nd pic....Typically all new parts, 100 mile tensioner is probably still ok, up to you

[uturn]

The cost of replacing the stamped camshaft pulley, stamped idle pulley and tensioner w/new spring is way cheaper than tears. I'll be waiting for the "Help, my engine died" thread.

[Jshbrwr]

the side with your finger on it, your 2nd pic....Typically all new parts, 100 mile tensioner is probably still ok, up to you

Copy, driver’s side

Thanks

[Jshbrwr]

Got the belt on, tighter this time. I used the methods you guys suggested with more success. I had some more space to push the tensioner. Thanks!

[Jshbrwr]

The saga continues

So I got it all back together and had considerable trouble getting it cranked and running. Finally got some fresh fuel and things improved. However the car is idling very roughly. The opposite of smooth, strange vibrations that appear only in certain rev ranges. I am planning on checking the TPS, the connection under the throttle body, and whatever else someone suggests.

One thing I’m worried a bit about is the fact that reconnecting the injector clips was less positive than I wished. I didn’t label them as I removed them (dumb) but was able to see “ZYL 2” etc on some, not all of them and hooked them back up based on wire length. My question is if I swapped some accidentally, could that be the cause of an extremely rough idle? It’s as if it’s only running on 4 or 5 cyls...

Thanks

[Jshbrwr]

And I did find that the injectors fire in “banks” of 1 3 5, and 2 4 6, so I’ll have to see if that’s related

[Jshbrwr]

https://youtu.be/z2wRayo8Lj8

Here I am trying to crank it. This is 1 of 3 videos I'll upload

[Jshbrwr]

https://youtu.be/y8ybj-MGULA

Started up and walk around, listening to the sounds of the engine

[Jshbrwr]

https://youtu.be/HYzBvxnKkFo

Here's the last one and I'm hearing something I haven't heard before...any ideas would be great

[uturn]

I would do a valve adjustment to see if the sewing tick gets softer. On the new sound... remove belts until the noise goes away. When you remove the fan belt, that leaves only the timing belt. I'm betting $5 it's the alternator.

[Jshbrwr]

Any ideas on the smoke from the exhaust side?

[uturn]

You just did a head gasket job, any oil on the exhaust manifold needs to burn off. If it doesn't go away then start looking at the valve cover gasket, rocker shafts plugs, area around the distro cap.

Did you spill oil when you went to fill it after all the work you did?