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Time to refresh and upgrade the M20. Looking for feedback on both.

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  • r-mm
    replied
    We have a runner... tried to post a video but no can do. All I can say is: buy the crank tool. Had to fab something up and it was a bit scrapy.

    Didn’t have time much much more than a test fire but happy to hear her purr again

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  • r-mm
    replied
    I now have the car down on its wheels, in gear, chocked, e-brake on and still I'm having trouble torquing the crank nut. I guess 300 ft-lbs wants to make stuff rotate :)

    If I understand the crank holder tool correctly its supposed to be mounted with the pulleys removed? Has anyone used a flywheel holder type tool on the toothe'd ring?

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  • r-mm
    replied
    The last time I needed to torque something past the range of my wrenches I recall doing a calculation of my personal weight times the length of the cheater bar and standing on the end of it. Access is not quite so good here, I was doing wheelbearings last time, how are you all going about torquing the crank nut to 300?

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  • r-mm
    replied
    Will keep running list of stuff i forgot to do or did out of sequence for anyone’s benefit -

    Make all shifter connections before driveshaft goes on

    Dont forget to Moly disulfide grease the shifter contact points before installing

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  • r-mm
    replied
    Time to refresh and upgrade the M20. Looking for feedback on both.

    For reinstall - I definitely recommend making all your connections on the stand. Easy to forget how tight access is under the int mani. One thing i’d omit is the vib damper / ps+ac belt sprocket. Ac condenser will thank you for those extra inches.

    I didn’t like the way the rear hoist point pointed the chain at the fuel rail so I figured Id do a test lift with just the front point. At that moment three of my neighbors showed up and we figured we would just go at it. The single hoist point was not a problem (someone can pull the back of trans up to clear the front if needed) but having a good jack underneath the car on the transmission and a person to move it around was absolutely crucial. There was lots of going up on the transmission down on the crane, reverse etc. definitely some bear-hugging and pry baring at the end to get the mounts seated but without a doubt having the carriers on the motor, mounts on the body is the way to do it. Don’t forget that the mount studs can be pointed where you want them more easily than the drivetrain can be.

    Can someone remind me which oil cooler line goes to which port on the filter block?Click image for larger version

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  • ajhostetter
    replied
    Man, nice work!!

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  • Poorhouse
    replied
    Well done!

    Any tricks on getting it back in?

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  • r-mm
    replied
    Back where she belongs. Click image for larger version

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  • the_eskimo_wonder
    replied
    Crank position sensor is on the passenger side. It looks like it's in the correct spot.

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  • r-mm
    replied
    Does anyone see anything out of place?

    Someone remind me if the crank position sensor is closer to the driver or pass side (usa).

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  • r-mm
    replied
    Good call and reminder I had meant to change all those hoses in the back.

    Ground down a 30mm and got the trans output nut off. VW crank puller worked nicely to remove the sprocket.

    Improved detent plate going on.

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  • zaq123
    replied
    Originally posted by r-mm View Post
    The parts diagrams dont seem to show which fuel line is supply and which is return. The labels I put on the lines before removing dont tell and photos dont show all together.

    Anyone recall which line the bottom one is?

    [ATTACH]127333[/ATTACH]
    the big one on the very bottom? charcoal canister

    typically out of those 3 lines in the bracket, bottom one is the supply. But there is only one way to be 100% sure - go and look at the fuel filter near the gas tank. If it's coming from the filter - supply; if it goes into the tank - return

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  • r-mm
    replied
    The parts diagrams dont seem to show which fuel line is supply and which is return. The labels I put on the lines before removing dont tell and photos dont show all together.

    Anyone recall which line the bottom one is?

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  • r-mm
    replied
    Motor is coming together and I am starting to think about reinstallation. What sequence of mounts and carriers install do you all find is easiest when reinstalling the motor? My feeling is that having the carriers on the motor and the rubber mounts on the body is the best any feedback?

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  • r-mm
    replied
    Yup usually leave plugs barely threaded to keep debris out, ease turnover


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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