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Time to refresh and upgrade the M20. Looking for feedback on both.

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  • lukeADE335i
    replied
    What part is that? I've pulled a part quite a few e30s and don't recognise it?

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  • r-mm
    replied
    Looks like this guy was causing the trans to hang. Surprised more people don’t mention removing - seems like an easy win.

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  • r-mm
    replied
    Thanks for the feedback. This might be a dumb question but if you remove all of the nuts from the block where I am pointing here what is holding the motor in place? Would it just be resting directly on the sub frame?

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  • Poorhouse
    replied
    Sorry, didn't realize you weren't clear of the mounts. I didn't pull the mounts from the block, just the nuts off the subframe.

    My chain was shorter than yours in the back the leveler was tight on the block.
    I think you're going to need to tighten up the chain. I had my lift at max height to clear the core support. I still had to help the trans clear the core support.

    It was a bitch to get out with the trans on. I was fighting either hitting the firewall or core support as I pulled it up and out.

    I'm debating either installing without the trans or pulling the subframe and going in from the bottom.

    Here was my set up. A longer chain in back would have given me a bit more angle. You can see the hoist is about maxed out. I had to pull the rollers from under the tires to get some more clearance for the core support.

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  • r-mm
    replied
    How do you mean? I can't move the motor fore/aft because its not clear of the motor mounts.

    Bentley has me remove the nuts on the bottom of the rubber motor mounts only. I suppose I could remove the connection to the motor as well.

    I'm having the same issue these guys clearly are and wondering if the chain to the rear pick point isn't way too short... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IUCA83se5eE

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  • lukeADE335i
    replied
    Good luck with the rebuild!

    I've rebuilt a few M20s with my Dad & we've always just bought Elring VRS and bottom end kits and haven't ever had a problem? Has their quality dropped or something (seems people like more 'exotic' options these days - they always used to be the go-to brand)?

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  • Poorhouse
    replied
    Can you roll toward core support?

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  • r-mm
    replied
    Answer: yes pull the grommet thru.

    The motor seems to want to pivot/rub at the firewall. This is my first time using a load leveler. Any tips here?

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  • r-mm
    replied
    Getting into it. Do you pull the grommet out of the firewall or yank the motronic wire and big plastic connecter thru?

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  • Poorhouse
    replied
    Work has resumed. Starting to reassemble.

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  • r-mm
    replied
    Thank you more than anything it helps just to know that it is possible. How is your project coming

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  • Poorhouse
    replied
    Yeah, that was fiddly to get too.

    I used a nut/bolt with a washer big enough for the chain loop.
    Bolt had to be just the right size. To long and it wouldn't fit in the gap, to short it would catch the threads.

    No parts removed for access.

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  • r-mm
    replied
    How exactly have you all gone about hooking up the rear chain of a load leveler to the hard-to-reach bracket at the rear of the motor? Did you remove any parts in order to access it and what type of hardware did you use?

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  • r-mm
    replied
    Took care of powdercoating the valve cover in advance of my engine removal.

    Used this wrinkle texture epoxy and happy with how it looks - photo makes it look flat but in fact it has subtle alum like texture.

    SILVER WRINKLE, product ID EWB-9117. Prismatic Powders offers more than 6,500 powder coating colors, equipment, and apparel all available all with fast direct shipping.
    Attached Files

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  • r-mm
    replied
    I haven't don't it that way but doubt its easier. Double the bolts on the manifold.

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