wierd idle

[kamotors]

could be low voltage... have you tested for this? I had to replace the volt reg on mine and it really helped the idle and lights plus cranks faster too.

I think this might be it because it seems electrical, if the rpms are above 600 its fine, its an automatic so its not like i can rev while going slow. I did an experiment today and if the AC is on it drives perfect because the rpms stay up, it acts like it cant keep itself turned on, like the battery doesn't have enough juice. where is the voltage regulator located and how much is it?

[kamotors]

which voltage regulator is right



or

[kamotors]

fault code reads 1444

[redhatpat]

Turn the car to "run" without starting it, and pop the hood. If the ICV makes a constant buzzing noise, it is time to get a new one.

No, an ICV will normally buzz with ignition on!

If you're unsure on the condition of your ICV it can't hurt to clean it out. Spray it with throttle body cleaner and get out as much dirt as you can.

[kamotors]

No, an ICV will normally buzz with ignition on!

If you're unsure on the condition of your ICV it can't hurt to clean it out. Spray it with throttle body cleaner and get out as much dirt as you can.

okay mine buzzes, i just cleaned the electrical conection part with MAF sensor cleaner because there was alot of black crud in there, hooked it back up and now my throttle response is much better, but it kinda skips around and backfires when i revved it up to about 2000rpms , maybe because my engine was still not fully warmed up. so i drove it down the street and it drove great but it drove great with this problem in the first place. I didn't clean the other parts of the ICV yet.

[rcko]

The bottom picture voltage regulator is what I used, but I used a part from a volvo since it allows you to adjusted and dial in a bit more voltage. THese older cars run like 12.4 12.6 volts. Newer cars now run 13ish volts. THe higher voltages give you better spark for better ignition plus allows you have brighter headlights etc...

If interested on the adj regulator do a search on my nick and there should be a thread on it.

If not just get the OEM Boexh unit. It is located on the aft face of the alternator. IF you look at the alternator from the left side of the car, ei steering down next to the airbox, it will be above the wire connections for it. Replacement is two phillips head screws.

WHat happens is that the brushes wear down on it. BUt if your alternator is high milage, then your contact surface could also be worn down too, but the volt reg is the cheap solution.

[kamotors]

i bougth a new bosch distributor cap and rotor, so hopefully that will help ive never changed that (at least in the last 20,000miles)

[redhatpat]

The bottom picture voltage regulator is what I used, but I used a part from a volvo since it allows you to adjusted and dial in a bit more voltage. THese older cars run like 12.4 12.6 volts. Newer cars now run 13ish volts.

What? Where do you get this nonsense? Our e30s should have ~13.6V at rest, and running, they should have 14.0V or above. Mine tested at 13.8V running with worn out brushes. Replacing them put the output right at 14.4V.

If not just get the OEM Boexh unit. It is located on the aft face of the alternator. IF you look at the alternator from the left side of the car, ei steering down next to the airbox, it will be above the wire connections for it. Replacement is two phillips head screws.

WHat happens is that the brushes wear down on it. BUt if your alternator is high milage, then your contact surface could also be worn down too, but the volt reg is the cheap solution.

If your volts measure low, check out the brushes. Yes, they're easy to check on a Bosch alt. and cheap and easy to replace. You'll just need a soldering iron. That should bring your volts back up.

Voltage regulators for Bosch alts are also very easy to replace, but more expensive.

[kamotors]

im pretty sure i have leaky fuel injectors also, cuz ive got bad gas mileage(18mpg)(25mpg when i bought the car) and i have hard warm starts

[kamotors]

so i bought some new bosch 4 hole fuel injectors,hopefully my problem stops. i also finnaly put my MSD coil in, but thats more for looks

[mbbollman]

Did it work?

My car has an ilde problem as well. It all started when I put on a new exhaust system. The old muffler was rusted off at the cat and the new system from ireland is giving the car a lot more back pressure. I will check my ICV hopefully that will do the trick.

[kamotors]

i finnaly got around to installing it
got my coil put in,going to try to put the new injectors and distributor rotor and cap on this weekend,if it would stop snowing

[kamotors]

do you have to remove the valve cover to change the fuel injectors? pelican articles doesn't say i have to but other websites say you MUST remove the valve cover.

[e30serg]

You should not have to remove the valve cover. If anything, make sure you clean around the injector holes BEFORE you remove them off the car. You don't want all that crap falling in. Removing the little intake manifold support bracket would help.

[R4g3fist]

Unless you're chipped, 87 is what you should be running in an M20b25. Says so right in the owner's manual. I would second the ICV, if you're sure you don't have vacuum leaks (which can also cause the symptoms you're seeing).

True enough, except that older 87 octane was true 87, no ethanol. Good luck finding that now-a-days. The octane rating is the same on modern 87, but without a higher temp and higher compression engine, you can't realize the same power from the same octane rating. It's a similar problem to when lead was taken out of gasoline and people had to invent additives to cope with the problem.