Two 1 pin white connectors (brown and red wires) is your glove box light.
Flat 3 pin mini-spade connector, green is OBC drive away protection (ignition coil power lead), black is tech (which went through c101 on later cars), yellow is fuel economy gauge. If you want the fuel and tach to work, you will need to splice those wires into the harness bundle, or run wires to the c101.
The two black/white roundish plug 3 pin connectors that are clipped together are obsolete in the case of a swap.
One final thing to check is pin #20 in the c101 connector. If the chassis side is open, any engine harness can go in your chassis, peel the rubber boot off the back to see wires and if you have brown on one side and a color on the other, you will need to pull one side as early cars u8sed that for a ground, then some years it's missing, others it's a power. If yours mismatches and you turn the key, the body harness will start melting under your steering column.
Flat 3 pin mini-spade connector, green is OBC drive away protection (ignition coil power lead), black is tech (which went through c101 on later cars), yellow is fuel economy gauge. If you want the fuel and tach to work, you will need to splice those wires into the harness bundle, or run wires to the c101.
The two black/white roundish plug 3 pin connectors that are clipped together are obsolete in the case of a swap.
One final thing to check is pin #20 in the c101 connector. If the chassis side is open, any engine harness can go in your chassis, peel the rubber boot off the back to see wires and if you have brown on one side and a color on the other, you will need to pull one side as early cars u8sed that for a ground, then some years it's missing, others it's a power. If yours mismatches and you turn the key, the body harness will start melting under your steering column.
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