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Unlike caps (main, or rod) these should never need to be line bored. All the casting had to do is hold the bearing tight, the boring comes from the burnishing final process...unless you are referencing a line bore in the bearings after install? That's a great idea......more work..... -
I like it!! How about a little line bore setup to go with it now 8^)
Was crazy(but great) to see him get all in fit shape! Miss going to his annual BBQs 8^(Leave a comment:
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Everyone mentions Peerless/Robert. Good dude, we had many conversations, even after he left the automotive industry and went into the health field about 6-7yr ago. Yes, we all chatted behind scenes, just like tuners do. Honestly, he told me about his drift kit, got jealous, said "I can install these", but did it by hand and measuring tools. This makes it a no-brainer. Hats off to Robert, aka e30MotorWorks. Miss ya man.Leave a comment:
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Peerless who did a write up on e30tech said he machined them on the lathe before install and then honed to size to the usual journal clearance after installed.
The factory reamed them iircLeave a comment:
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Impossible. The shafts are what dictates the bearing size. I literally have at least a dozen m20 bottom ends, and the shafts DO NOT go from one motor to another. Not sure what process was done or changed in the factory, but have done dozens, if not hundreds of m20 intermediate bearings. For some reason, the bearings are burnish to fit, vs having a boundary layer like a cam in a V8 pushrod engine.
Not sure how to explain it, it just is what it is. Crazy too, because BMW did so well with colored bearings on the crankshaft, but left the oil drive to the wind.Leave a comment:
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These are used bearing getting pressed in and out to prove repeatability. Galley location wasn't paid attention.Leave a comment:
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Yup. Figure just a center drill to mark 12 o'clock on the ends of the drifts, and a center drill mark in the side of the shaft to show oil passage location.
Again, modeled this after my Chevy cam bearing installation tool, o-rings and all. I've had that kit for at least 20yr and installed 100's of bearings, figure this bit of kit should last just as long. Made it from t6061 aluminum drops - this just doesn't look as nice lacking anodizing.Leave a comment:
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Some chemicals are safe for aluminum, but honestly the ones I've been taking apart lately have the copper layer showing anyways. If you are spending money on an engine, replacing these bearings are small change in the big pic. I have been replacing them for years without issue, but have never taken the time to make a proper tool to turn a tedious job into a 10min gig (take several hours now to save an hour each time). Normally I would use a bearing press tool kit and take the time to square them before burnishing. These drifts and centering jig make it super easy.
If anyone is interested in a tool kit, PM me. Thought about making and selling them, but how many people would really use them on a regular basis? Also have a mind to think the people who would use this tool would also be capable of making their own. :/Leave a comment:
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I was reading this thread on bimmerforums where they mentioned you by name:
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...-gear-bearings
Will hot tanking the block really destroy these bearings? If so, would you be willing to share your tooling design sketches?Leave a comment:
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Finished the other drift and fixture today.
Use the long drift to center the jig for the outer bearing, then tighten bolts.
Mount inner bearing on the drift.
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NLA, but managed to get my hands on a few sets. Some are +.5mm.
Fired up the lathe today. Been meaning to make oil pump drive bearing installation drifts. This tool will install the rear bearings in a snap. O-Rings hold the bearing centered, and the shoulder makes setting the depth a sinch. Copied the o-ring idea from my Chevy cam installation tool. Also plan on making one to install the needle bearings.
Now to make a drift for the front bearings....
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