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M20b25 stroker using eta parts

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    M20b25 stroker using eta parts

    Hey all, I know I'm more than likely asking a question that's been answered before, but I'm swapping a 2.5 into my 325e and I now have the old 2.7 sitting in my back yard. My question is the following: is it worth the time to use the parts from an eta motor to stroke my 2.5 or would I be better off hunting down all the parts necessary from a seta, or is that even worth it? I'm happy with the power output of the M20 but if I can do something low cost to enhance the overall performance of the car I figure it's worth looking into. Thanks!

    #2
    There is a lot of info on this topic:
    https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/for...ker-build-info
    https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/for...-wall-help-pls
    https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/for...-should-i-swap

    If you're happy with the power of the m20, just put it in there and be happy. Unless you plan on rebuilding the m20b25 anyway, opening the engine is opening a whole can of worms.
    sigpic
    1987 - 325i Convertible Delphin Auto [SOLD], 325i Convertible Delphin Manual [SOLD]
    1989 - 325i Convertible Bronzit m30b35 swapped [SCRAPPED], 325i Sedan Alpine Auto[DD]
    1991 - 325i Coupe Laguna Manual [Project], 535i Sedan Alpine [SCRAPPED]

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      #3
      Originally posted by McGyver View Post
      There is a lot of info on this topic:
      https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/for...ker-build-info
      https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/for...-wall-help-pls
      https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/for...-should-i-swap

      If you're happy with the power of the m20, just put it in there and be happy. Unless you plan on rebuilding the m20b25 anyway, opening the engine is opening a whole can of worms.
      Thanks for the links! Read through them and found a lot of really useful info. While I do enjoy the stock power on an M20, I also really enjoy tinkering and would love to build a 2.7i in my spare time. The question that lingers in my mind is if the stroker is that much better compared to a normal 2.5 in N/A form. I don’t have any plans to turbo the car since I’m in Cali and don’t want to drive around paranoid about being pulled over and being asked to pop the hood. From what I see 180hp looks achievable and the torque output bumps significantly (which is what I’m looking for as I really enjoy canyon carving). When I read almost all of these forums everyone talks about how a swap is cheaper and you get x more horsepower but, after spending high school chasing PR’s on the highway, straight line speed just isn’t my thing anymore. I’d rather keep the car light and balanced so it can take corners and pull out of them like a champ. Also I have a big soft spot in my heart for M20’s, the reliability of them is what made me switch into an E30 instead of an an N54 based power plant like an E9X 335i after I ran my E60 into the ground. Absolutely hated how much shit went wrong on that M52

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        #4
        To add onto all of that. I’m a very broke college student with intentions to play baseball until I can’t anymore (which means I will likely be very broke for quite a while longer) so I don’t really have the means to ball out on a crazy stroker build or any sort of time-intensive swap. This car will also be my daily when I head back to school this fall so the 2.7i will be built outside of the car in my spare time (or crammed into one or two weekends). The end goal is to have a super fun canyon carver under $10k. I’m already a little under $4k into this project and I plan to spend around $2k on suspension, $1k on interior, and another $2k on paint (unless I decide to paint it myself). Hopefully that’s an overestimate on all fronts but those figures would leave $1k of wiggle room plus some parts that I have that I’m trying to sell off. From what I see that is about what it would cost to build a 2.7i if I bought a seta and used the innards of my i motor. Hopefully that helps add a little perspective.

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          #5
          a 2.7 based engine using 885 head, b25 piston, eta pistons and rods is worth doing over b25. There isnt much expense if you have a good set of pistons and block in good condition provided you do assembling yourself.
          89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...

          new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505

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            #6
            The hang up you will encounter is that you’re starting with an eta car. You will need a tach and a DME/wire harness. My son has an eta car and he has built a 2.7i, the hang up for us is getting the harness and DME. He has a tach though
            My son has the 1987 325e, 2 door, 5speed
            I daily the 1989 325i, 4 door, 5speed

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              #7
              Originally posted by 325e '87 View Post
              The hang up you will encounter is that you’re starting with an eta car. You will need a tach and a DME/wire harness. My son has an eta car and he has built a 2.7i, the hang up for us is getting the harness and DME. He has a tach though
              The car isn't exactly and eta anymore, every mechanical and electrical part has been transplanted from a salvaged '89 325is so all that is taken care of. Appreciate the input though!

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