This is a bit different from things I've seen. One cylinder only, #6. Others had normal color and minor wear. My son says it wasn't gooey like it looks, it was hard, he scraped it off.
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check this... https://ngksparkplugs.com/en/resources/read-spark-plug good luck. sent from hell using tapatalk~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
'90 325i sedan daily driven
'85 325e coupe also a daily
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Looks like combusted oil residue. Bad rings will often foul the plug with oil and leave a tarry mess, but bad intake valve guides will continuously admit oil into the combustion process, but in small enough amounts it won't foul. But it will leave behind ashy stuff from the oil. Other identifiers, puff of smoke on startup, puff of smoke after long deceleration when you tip back into the throttle. Really bad guides and seals can show up on a vacuum gauge with a upsy-downsy type wobble of the needle... Best way I can describe it.1985 325e -> M60 swap project
1983 GTV6
1974 X1/9
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Compression test today :
Tested each one at least twice. Kept climbing through 20-25 pulses.
1 - 180 / 180
2 - 163 / 165 added teaspoon of oil: 190+
3 - 162 / 165 added teaspoon of oil: 187
4 - 180 / 180
5 - 175 / 176
6 - 180 / 180
So those are just at the edge of 10% apart.
Do these seem high for an eta?
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Not at all. The eta has higher compression and smaller duration cam, so they tend to test higher cranking compression. A fresh b25 stock will do 180-185, but those numbers drop to about 145-150 with a 272 camshaft.
162-180 isn't a deal-breaker as the car will run fine, but as you can see, you have a couple of sticky rings and be burning a bit of oil when the crankcase pressurizes.
EDIT: Odd that #6 compression tested good, and that's the one with deposits.Last edited by ForcedFirebird; 06-15-2020, 05:09 AM.
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using any oil or fuel additives?89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...
new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505
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