I will be replacing the head gasket on my m20 and may rebuild the head depending on its condition. Does anyone know of any specialty tools i need to get the head and intake/exhaust manifolds off the engine? I have already purchased a fan clutch wrench but have also heard I may need something to hold the crankshaft in place?
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m20 Headgasket and other misc. maintenance
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You'll need an E14 torx socket, preferable 1/2" to use with a breaker bar.
A wobble socket extension https://www.harborfreight.com/wobble...-pc-67971.html
A joint socket adapter https://www.harborfreight.com/univer...-pc-63141.html
You'll need a crankshaft holder bar if you want to change the front seals. It's difficult to unscrew the crankshaft bolt without it.
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The cam sprocket bolt could be a E12 socket so have that as it differs from the head bolts iirc.
a 22 mm 1/2" socket and ratchet will grab onto the big M18 crank bolt to allow you to rotate engine. As said above the crank bolt doesn't need removing unless you're replacing the front seal.
pre-spray some stuff on nuts before trying to remove especially exhaust manifolds89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...
new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505
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If you want to remove the front seals, you'll need these tools:
BMW CRANKSHAFT HUB LOCKING TOOL (M20/M40/M41/M43/M44/M50/M51/M52) https://shop.ktcautotools.com/produc...44-m50-m51-m52
A gear puller to remove the part # 11211284940, like this https://www.harborfreight.com/bolt-t...set-62620.html
I found that I needed a long bolt to install it back. The crankshaft bolt is M18X1,5X65. You'll need a much longer M18X1,5 bolt, but it's very difficult to find one.
Something like this: https://www.belmetric.com/18x15-fine...ck-p-2536.html
But some people use a hammer, and it works.
You'll also need a sealant because the contact with the bottom oil pan will be broken. Like this: Victor Reinz Reinzosil.
Or you'll have to change the oil pan gasket.
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Originally posted by Vincenze View PostIf you want to remove the front seals, you'll need these tools:
BMW CRANKSHAFT HUB LOCKING TOOL (M20/M40/M41/M43/M44/M50/M51/M52) https://shop.ktcautotools.com/produc...44-m50-m51-m52
A gear puller to remove the part # 11211284940, like this https://www.harborfreight.com/bolt-t...set-62620.html
I found that I needed a long bolt to install it back. The crankshaft bolt is M18X1,5X65. You'll need a much longer M18X1,5 bolt, but it's very difficult to find one.
Something like this: https://www.belmetric.com/18x15-fine...ck-p-2536.html
But some people use a hammer, and it works.
You'll also need a sealant because the contact with the bottom oil pan will be broken. Like this: Victor Reinz Reinzosil.
Or you'll have to change the oil pan gasket.
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Originally posted by fnc0329 View Post
I appreciate all the links! I'm not quite sure i understand what you mean by me needing a longer bolt though? Am i not able to re use the one i take off? And what exactly do some people use the hammer to do?
You need a gear puller to remove it from the crankshaft. Then you need tools to install it back. You can try to hammer it in - hammering can destroy it. Or use a long bolt to slowly move it in the position. The bolt #6 is not long enough to move it the first half way.
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Originally posted by JehTehsus View PostIf you are pulling the harmonic balancer, is it a good idea to change out the woodruff keys?
I don't know, but maybe someone who does can chime in. My only experience is from when I built my motor and had to install them.
If it's destroyed, you'll have to replace it.
But there is no access from the front when the engine is installed in the car. You'll have to take out the AC condenser, etc.
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the gear is not a press fit, it'll be hard to get it off initially as it will be crudded up but getting it back on is easy. you can use 2 m8 long bolts a plate with a couple holes and a packer on the end of crank and wind it off as a makeshift puller if it'll save you spending on a new puller. its snug fit but should go back on without much effort after surfaces are cleaned, deburred a thin smear of antiseize applied to the bore89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...
new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505
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