M30 swap for my Olive Drab Vert!

[Good & Tight]

This is turbo grad school. Sorry you're the case study Matt. I can't imagine how you would do this without resources like Lorin and Otis (great to meet you in WS Otis).

Nice meeting you too Jeff.

[jeffnhiscars]

This is turbo grad school. Sorry you're the case study Matt. I can't imagine how you would do this without resources like Lorin and Otis (great to meet you in WS Otis).

[RagtopE30]

M30 swap for my Olive Drab Vert!

There was no noticeable detonation. But I will definitely check with a light.

Then again the head gasket may have been to far gone before I pulled it apart the first time. It was suggested that the head gasket could have been leaking from day one but not to the extent of being really noticeable. If that was the case the resealing was just a temporary fix and a ticking time bomb. After some consideration I am glad that it gave out near home rather than after some spirited driving on the way to Winston Salem. I am going to check every block and not take anything for granted when it goes back together. The head will be checked, the deck will be checked, the head gasket will be treated to the Otis method, and the timing will be confirmed with a timing light at a minimum.

[LJ851]

Otis brings up a good point. The spark timing numbers in the ECU might not match what the engine is actually seeing, like the ECU says 25 degrees but it's actually 30 at the engine.I have a feeling this might be the case.

If it is not, i would dial some timing out of it if 12.8 afr is enough to cause detonation and HG failure. That seems to be a little too close to the ragged edge, if you had said you hit 14.8 afr i would not be suggesting this.

[RagtopE30]

Thanks man. I hated missing it this year more than I want to admit!
The cam and crank are dead on the marks. I will definitely check it with a timing light when I get the new head gasket and reassemble it

[Good & Tight]

Matt, sorry you couldn't make it this year.
Thought you had upgraded the fuel pump. Seems like your timing might be off, verify with a timing light at idle to see where it's at.

[the imitator]

All I know is that I am going to get another cometic and spray it from the get go. Then I will over torque the studs to 105ft/lbs and I will keep the boost at or under 14psi. I also will be having the head checked before reinstallation. Not to mention new fuel pumps, that's right dual walboros! Then I should be good

Take your frustration and turn it into plans.. I like it!

[RagtopE30]

I am still running the factory fuel pump and when I post the graph you will see where it looks as if the fuel pump just can't give anymore. At the top of the rpm range and at full power the afr's on the last pull went from 11.3 to a 12.8 which. Or ally wouldn't be a problem but the tuner believes that the fuel pump starved the engine just enough so the timing no longer worked and shit happened.

All I know is that I am going to get another cometic and spray it from the get go. Then I will over torque the studs to 105ft/lbs and I will keep the boost at or under 14psi. I also will be having the head checked before reinstallation. Not to mention new fuel pumps, that's right dual walboros! Then I should be good

[LJ851]

Nice dyno #s, sorry to here about your HG.

Are you running a lot of timing? Why do you think the gasket is failing?

[RagtopE30]

I thought I would be able to do both the Vintage and post good numbers.

Numbers: (I will post the dyno sheet when he emails it to me)

414whp and 427 ft-lbs at 4600ish rpm on 12psi

Then

440whp and 479 ft-lbs at 4600ish rpm at 14.5psi








AND THEN

This morning I had to get my car towed to my shop due to over heating again.
I pulled the head today with the help of some friends and the MLS headgasket resembled a piece of cooked bacon. I said screw it at this point I dont have time to order a new head gasket and make it to the Vintage within 24hrs. So we cleaned each layer and tried to reseal it with copper spray. We check the head for visible cracks and then reassembled. I have to say my friends helped me pull off an incredible feat, head gasket job done in 3 hours. Once the coolant system was filled and bleed as much as possible we took it for a drive and didnt even make it a mile before the coolant system was pressurized and spewing coolant out of the coolant tank. I bled the system again hoping against hope that it just had a little air in it. NOPE the head gasket is still allowing exhaust into the coolant.

So I will not be at the Vintage this year..... SUCKS!!!! Feels like I did all this work for naught. Needless to say this has been a pretty disappointing day.

[Good & Tight]

Matt, I would suggest routing the valve cover vent to the intake of the turbo.

IMO we would rather see the car than the dyno #'s this weekend.

[RagtopE30]

^that is next on the list

[LJ851]

Lastly I noticed that I am getting much more blow by coming out of the valve cover. The hose that used to return to the intake is now vented to the atmosphere and before the head gasket redo I may have gotten a little steam but not much else from it. Now I am getting what I would expect, hot oil steam and smoke but not smoke in a bad way (I don't think anyways).



IF YOU SEE ANY RED FLAGS IN MY OBSERVATIONS ABOVE PLEASE SPEAK UP NOW!!!

If you mean vented to atmosphere literally and are not using an oil separator/catch can then you need to hook one up.

[kamotors]

awesome build, also just a little advice from what I experienced, you need to ditch the spectre TB coupler. they will fail under hard driving(not street driving but things like auto-x)

problem is when they get hot and you boost they swell up, after repeated swelling they stay swelled and never fit again. I had spectre reducer and after a few auto-x's it turned a 3" coupler reducer into some crazy flared 4" balloon creature. Caused the charge pipe to pop off multiple times even with t-bolt clamps. Silicone couplers like turbonetics/mishimoto/treadstone are worlds better and around the same price.

[RagtopE30]

No because I didn't over heat it severely.