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M30 engine removal

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    #16
    Like euro said, when it does break free it's almost always the tranny that touches the ground first. I pump it up a couple pumps and then crank the lever, pump some more crank the lever.

    It takes a minute but not bad really, it's just a combination of clearances.

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      #17
      Try not to damage the brake lines on the firewall above the cylinder head. Maybe remove the sensor on the back of the head also to prevent damage.

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        #18
        Engine is currently off the mounts with a large socket over the stud of the rubber mount to allow for the couple of inches clearance I required to get the sump off (didnt have a crane so just jacked from the sump then supported it via the sockets on the rubber mounts), so in effect it is already broken free. Sump is only held on with two bolts currently as waiting for my E34 sump and pickup. For the pull out I could just whip the sump off again as it will be no big deal and the pickup is currently disconnected so will be a lot more clearance underneath.

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          #19
          nothing should need to be pulled physically off the motor, doesn't matter if it was in my 5 series or pulling the the m30 out of an e30 shell, the pan cant stay, the head can stay, the pulley can stay..

          To avoid any line fiasco as mentioned, I use a rag, and both times it seemed we had the chains persay favored towards the core support, so when it broke it came forward and tilted.

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            #20
            Done



            And done

            Originally posted by flyboyx
            i have watched my dog lick himself off a few times

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              #21
              Ok thanks guys, weekend was a washout in the UK so havent done anymore to the car, apart from wreck one of the air con condensers pushing the car back in the garage a pipe got caught up where the front spoiler noormally keeps it under control and ripped it the fitting out the condenser. Still had quite a bit of R12 in it by the sound of what came out and also the oil and dye was still in there (not bad for 13 years of storage) Now got to try and source a replacement condenser for one side.

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                #22
                Good luck finding that condenser. I was intrigued and was wondering if I could increase the capacity of my car's AC. Research says Dunnair made them but only a limited run for the E30 333i cars.

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                  #23
                  Do you have any details of what you have found? I believe it is a Diavia unit. Think I can effect a repair by de brazing the snapped part from the fitting, brazing a pipe back in then joining back to what is left.



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                    #24
                    Ya, that can be fixed.

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                      #25
                      Here's the article.
                      The Dunnair web page doesn't list the 333i.

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                        #26
                        Thanks for that, mine isn't factory fitted it was retro fitted when it was imported to the UK. I have PAS and AC which was not a factory option.

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                          #27
                          It's out



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                            #28
                            Guys got it back in, position 3 as per the mounts supplied by e30.de. Everything seems to fit ok at the front crank pulley, rotor cap. At the rear the bulkhead seems fine at the head end but the lug on the side of the block is fouling on the transmission tunnel. One side already had been grinded off for exhaust downpipe clearance passenger side is my issue (right hand drive car). Do you guys normally grind these lugs off? Also seems like I have a bit of rotational tilt as the gearbox is not going down square on the mounts. causing me to have to wind it into position side by side on the mounts rathert than just jack the transmisson up and fir the mounts. So much so that it has delaminated one mount the rubber has streached and split.

                            Will get some photos up later of front clearance

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