M30 5spd

[euroshark]

Yeah, some E32s and E34s did, not sure what year that started though... Could have been from the beginning of production for all I know.

[Jean]

Got a manual TB, the smaller ignition coil and 179 ecu from an 89 735i. ECU from an auto is ok right?

[euroshark]

Yep, it won't be a problem. I used a 179 ECU from an auto and it works perfectly.

[Funkmasta]

Auto and manual have the 179

[Jean]

Did any of the m30 starters have threaded holes?

I am about to buy this one - http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BMW-S...Q5fAccessories

[Jean]

So, I sourced a couple missing parts.

Got a manual TB from another B35. Got the ICV (bfc member), AFM (thanks Nate), starter (ebay), ecu and ignition coil, and t-stat housing with the sensors (yard). Injectors are going to get rebuilt / flow matched (shipping them out this week), and the intake manifold along with t-stat housing and oil pan is going to the machine shop to get hot-tanked.

Down to a couple parts now (wiring harness, f-ing missed one on ebay from another B35 for $26+s/h!!!!), radiator, engine mounts, hoses and spark plug wires (i can't believe these are $150+) And probably some more parts I am not thinking about... Thanks to Joe who is getting me the m30 5speed / flywheel and driveshaft :pimp:

[Jean]

e34 B35 5speed harness on the way!

[JoeMadoo]

alright!

[euroshark]

Not trying to hijack...

Joe, did you blast and clearcoat all of the aluminum on that engine? It's pretty.

[Jean]

It is pretty, I saved those pics from his other thread

[JoeMadoo]

Joe, did you blast and clearcoat all of the aluminum on that engine? It's pretty

Haha thank you, just cleaned everything and sprayed silver and black.

[Jean]

Guys, are m20 and m30 cap and rotors the same?

What are your recommendations on clutch kit, get a stock e34 535i cluth or e28 535i or 635csi ? Are they any different from each other?

[Funkmasta]

Guys, are m20 and m30 cap and rotors the same?

What are your recommendations on clutch kit, get a stock e34 535i cluth or e28 535i or 635csi ? Are they any different from each other?

The cap and rotors are the same.

If you can, get an M5 clutch... If you drive conservatively, you will never have to do a clutch job again.

[Jean]

Ok, found some wiring info that might help others as well.

I still haven't looked at my m10 engine harness to see if it unplugs from the fusebox or if it will have to be cut off. If it unplugs I would like to make an adapter (similar to the e30m/s5x adapaters by AKG or Treehouse).


Link - http://www.m535i.org/officers/ra/article.html


M30 b35 Motor Conversion(Electrics)


Ok, even though this is from the E30 ETM, it should be the same. Let me know if any of the wire colors are not found or different, and I will try to dig up my E28 ETM. Please note that I am partially color blind so I have great difficulty telling the difference between Green and Brown. So some wires that might be Green I will call Brown and vise versa.
The connectors that need to be taken into account are C101 and C103. C101 is the 17 pin connector that plugs into the fuse box. C103 is the connector that plugs into the motor wiring harness under the dash on the passenger side. There are anywhere from 5-3 wires in C103. The wires on the side of the body are colored, BK(to instrument cluster(tach speed drive)), BR(Ground), WH/BK(to instrument cluster(fuel economy gauge drive)), GN/RD(not used(goes to one side of the OBC relay)), GN/YL(not used(goes to the other side of the OBC relay)). Now first lets concentrate on this plug. On the E28, BK goes to BK/BL, BR goes to BR, and WH/BK goes to WH. On an E30, the 2 wires that are not used in the E28 are used, which I believe are also used on the E34. These 2 wires are what cuts the ignition control when the CODE function of the OBC is used. If you are wanting to wire these in, they should connect to the one GN/RD wire. Basically, you cut the GN/RD wire and run one side down one of the unused wires and back to the other side of the GN/RD wire. In the E28, though the OBC relay should control the no start function by cutting power to the main relay, so that is why your car runs now, so I would just leave the 2 wires that aren't connected, unconnected.
Now onto the 17 pin plug on the side of the fuse box. C101. I believe that all of the connections for C101 and C103 in the E28 are contained in the E34 C101, so you will have to do some splicing up near the ECU to put in the other end of the E28 C103. The E28 plug has listed numbers I am going to refer to these number and the wire color that should come out of it on the E28 motor and what it does.
Pin 1, BU goes to alternator. Goes to alternator "charge indicator" light in instrument cluster.
Pin 2, BU/VI or BU/RD static oil level sender unit. Goes to static oil level light in the active check control unit.
Pin 4, BR/WH Coolant temp sensor driver wire. Runs to coolant temp gauge in instrument cluster.
Pin 6, GN/YL goes to the O2 sensor heater relay. Gets power from fuse 6 and in the fuse box is colored GN/WH.
Pin 7, GN/VI gets power from Pin 87 of Fuel Pump Relay and goes to fuse 1 in the fuse box.
Pin 8, BK/YL Starter trigger wire comes from the ignition key.
Pin 9, Not used
Pin 10, WH/BK To Diagnostic connector Pin 6. Said to be "not used".
Pin 12, GN Powers the coil from fuse 1 of fuse box
Pin 13, BU/WH Dynamic oil level sender unit. Goes to oil level light in active check control unit.
Pin 14, BR/GN Oil Pressure switch. Runs to oil pressure light in instrument cluster.
Pin 15, WH/BU Service indicator to Diagnostic connector.
Pin 16, GN Is the same as the GN wire in Pin 12 and is actually spliced together with the wire from Pin 12 at S127
Pin 17, GN/VI To Fuel pump relay through splice S128


The E34 uses a round style connector to plug into the fuse box. This has 20 pins so I will list what the wires in each of those do.
Pin 1, BU goes to the alternator. Comes from the Instrument Cluster "charge indicator" light. BU in the fuse box.
Pin 2, GN/YL comes from oil lever sensor. It is BU/BK in the fuse box and runs to the static oil level active check control unit, which is the same as the oil level light.
Pin 4, BR/VI comes from the coolant temp sender unit. It is BR/VI in the fuse box and goes to the Instrument cluster temp gauge.
Pin 5, BR/GN Oil pressure switch. Runs to instrument cluster oil pressure light.
Pin 6, GN/WH goes to the O2 sensor heater relay. Gets power from fuse 9 and in the fuse box is colored GN/YL.
Pin 7, GN comes from the ignition switch and goes to the Start Input, in the motronic unit and it also goes to Pin 15 on the coil. In the fuse box it is colored GN.
Pin 8, WH/BK comes from the motronic unit "present fuel rate output". Is YL/WH in fuse box and runs to Fuel Economy Gauge in the bottom of the tach.
Pin 9, BK goes to the ECU Engine speed output. This is BK in the fuse box. On the E28 this actually should be the connected in C103.
Pin 10, BU comes from the oil level sensor. It is VI/GN in the fuse box and goes to the active check control unit as the dynamic oil level light.
Pin 11, WH/GN comes from Pin 7 of the diagnostic connector. Is WH/BU in the fuse box and goes to the Service Indicator Processor.
Pin 12, GY comes from the ECU and is the trigger for the "Check Engine" light control. In the fuse box it is BR/BK. This wire is not used on the E28, since there is no check engine light.
Pin 13, GN/VI comes from Pin 87 of fuel pump relay. Is VI/RD in fuse box and runs to Fuse 11.
Pin 14, BK/WH comes from motronic unit "Speed Signal Input". Is BU/YL in fuse box and goes to the Speed Input of the Instrument Cluster.
Pin 15, BK/GN comes from Pin 30h on the coil. In the fuse box it is BK/GN and runs to the unloader relays.
Pin 16, WH/BK comes from Pin 6 of diagnostic connector and is used in the SRS system. In the fuse box it is WH/BK and is said to be not used.
Pin 18, BK/YL is the starter trigger and comes from in the car. It is also BK/YL in the fuse box. It also runs to Pin 11 of the diagnostic connector.
Pin 20, RD/YL comes from Pin 87 of the main relay. It is RD/YL and goes to power the ABS Hydraulic Unit.

I believe that the rest of the plugs aren't used.

I believe that Pin 14 is also not needed to have the car run properly.
I have yet to find out what propose it serves so I would say it doesn't need to be connected. And any of the E34 pins that I do not have connecting to a pin on the E28 harness means that it does not need to be connected, or there is no place for it to be connected.

Now here is a list of which wires need to go where.
C101 E34 to E28
Pin 1 Pin 1
Pin 2 Pin 2
Pin 4 Pin 4
Pin 6 Pin 6
Pin 13 Pin 7
Pin 18 Pin 8
Pin 16 Pin 10
Pin 7 Pin 12
Pin 10 Pin 13
Pin 5 Pin 14
Pin 11 Pin 15
Pin 7 Pin 16
Pin 13 Pin 17

C103
Pin 9 Pin 1 BK
Pin 8 Pin 3 WH/BK

I have spent now 7 hours on this, so I really hope it helps.

Written by Rob Anderson '01

[JoeMadoo]

Well now the hardest part is over!