Can't find Mess under intake manifold post
mess under intake manifold
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Two questions..
1. Is there a better hose option for the water pipe to head (green in below pic) than 5/16" bulk hose with a smaller hose shoved in the end to fit the head?
2. Any reason why I shouldn't replace both water temp sensors while I am doing this project? They are the same, yes? I am inclined to just order 2 sensors and move on
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Go to your local parts store with a close template and the end sizes you need, convince them to look at their wall of hoses for a close molded option, post the result here. You need to look again at the sensors in question, they are not the same, and unless they test as bad I don't see why you would replace them.Two questions..
1. Is there a better hose option for the water pipe to head (green in below pic) than 5/16" bulk hose with a smaller hose shoved in the end to fit the head?
2. Any reason why I shouldn't replace both water temp sensors while I am doing this project? They are the same, yes? I am inclined to just order 2 sensors and move onComment
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roguetoaster - visited a couple of local parts stores and resulted in finding a possibly great solution.
A slightly twisted, pre-bent Continental hose (#B71231 63036 s) when fitted with a small slice of original sized (diameter) insert fits and looks perfect.(note left clamp not yet tightened)
The only concern is, can this other hose sleeve insert approach as demo'd in the mess video, hold pressure for another 100K?
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So you put a hose within a hose?
Maybe some RTV between the two might be in order, but I don't know how effective it will be either way.Comment
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So who else has completed this bi-pass and how did you solve this connection?
And for those who have not reduced the clutter under the intake, why not?
BTW my next approach is: (from water pipe to head)
5/8" elbow (pre-bent ~90 degrees) >> plastic heater hose reducer (5/8"-1/2") >> 1/2" elbow onto head port.Comment
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My solution was to cut up the hoses that originally connected the head / TB heater / water pipe, joining them in the middle with a piece of the metal "U" that was under the TB and some hose camps. The hoses aren't all that expensive (or at least they used to be cheap, not sure about now) so I cut up some new ones when I was changing out all of the other hoses.
To be honest, I am not even sure that it matters if that little port in the head is connected to the water pipe. Such a small amount of coolant flows that way that head cooling is probably not going to be impacted if you just capped the openings somehow.Comment
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After more research, I found this thread that calls out the approach to use a BMW pre-bent hose for a E36 M42. https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/for...oolant-leaking
I decided to proceed with my 5/8" elbow (pre-bent ~90 degrees) >> plastic heater hose reducer (5/8"-1/2") >> 1/2" elbow onto head port. I am confident that it will hold as just replacing the stock mess. Moving forward!
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Looks great! We went with OE hose routing, but will see how long it all lasts.. if it fails we will go with the hose reduction plan.
Jason
1991 BMW 318is - AlpineWeiss II
1991 BMW 318is - DiamondSchwartz
1973 BMW 2002 Tii - Baikal
2002 Toyota 4Runner SR5 sport - BlackComment




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