Why will the m42 not stop ticking?!

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  • duleymane///iS
    Advanced Member
    • Jun 2012
    • 153

    #16
    yes good save!! ok should i just replace 5-8 all at the same time?

    Comment

    • MF DOOM
      E30 Modder
      • Apr 2012
      • 944

      #17
      Wouldnt hurt. Might as well since they are all so cheap.

      Comment

      • Massimo
        No R3VLimiter
        • Jan 2008
        • 3207

        #18
        Originally posted by duleymane///iS
        yes good save!! ok should i just replace 5-8 all at the same time?
        Just and fyi you can remove the upper oil pan with out removing the subframe.

        Originally posted by MF DOOM
        $25 valve vs. $500 lifters

        I replaced the lifters first and it kept on ticking. Its worth a shot.
        I don't know where you are looking but VW lifters are $140
        sigpic

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        • duleymane///iS
          Advanced Member
          • Jun 2012
          • 153

          #19
          so i dont have to jack the m42 up in order to remove the oil pan? i can get it off around the subframe? that would be AWESOME

          Comment

          • duleymane///iS
            Advanced Member
            • Jun 2012
            • 153

            #20
            so i have a question how will the oil pressure relief valve stop my ticking/clicking? am i not getting enough oil up into the top end?

            Comment

            • MF DOOM
              E30 Modder
              • Apr 2012
              • 944

              #21
              That was for oem m42 lifters, massimo.


              And pretty much. basically starves the tensioner at idle. I had to jack up my motor in order to get the upper pan off. Ive read that you can get to the valve if you take off the oil filter housing. Not positive about this but if i find some time ive got an old motor ill experiment on.

              Comment

              • Massimo
                No R3VLimiter
                • Jan 2008
                • 3207

                #22
                Originally posted by MF DOOM
                That was for oem m42 lifters, massimo.


                And pretty much. basically starves the tensioner at idle. I had to jack up my motor in order to get the upper pan off. Ive read that you can get to the valve if you take off the oil filter housing. Not positive about this but if i find some time ive got an old motor ill experiment on.
                Yeh something like that I bleive you may have to giggle it around a bit but from what I have read it can be done.
                sigpic

                Comment

                • duleymane///iS
                  Advanced Member
                  • Jun 2012
                  • 153

                  #23
                  Ok so i googled the subject of trying to take off the oil pan, didnt go very far for me, i think my best shot is throwing it up on the lift and just going in there and finding out by getting in the nitty gritty, is removing the subframe fairly easy or..... is it a pain in the rear?

                  Comment

                  • duleymane///iS
                    Advanced Member
                    • Jun 2012
                    • 153

                    #24
                    so I am fairly sure i found out why its clicking.... :( pulled the valve cover for paint and to check out the cams... the gears look like pikes peak.. so im going to need to change them now.. how hard is that? can it be accomplished with hand tools and a cam locker? depressed now...

                    Comment

                    • MattBimmer
                      Grease Monkey
                      • Dec 2011
                      • 339

                      #25
                      I too have this problem I am running super light Oil Weight as suggested by a guy who had an M42 and lasted a super long time. Mine stopped when I ran higher octan fuel. Imma by some seafoam annd heavier oil to see if it stops. If not I may need to replace this pressire valve
                      sigpic

                      Comment

                      • bmwman91
                        No R3VLimiter
                        • Oct 2004
                        • 3128

                        #26
                        You can see the pressure valve when you remove the oil filter housing, but you cannot remove it that way. You must remove the upper oil pan. Removal of the upper pan requires you to jack the motor up a good 3" or more to clear the subframe.

                        The cam gears can easily be replaced with hand tools. It is most easily accomplished by removing the upper timing case cover, which requires draining the coolant. Reinstalling the cover properly also takes a bit of thought. You might be able to get the gears out without pulling the upper timing cover, but I have never tried.

                        Do not run thin oil. It will cause more problems than it solves. I would say that 10W-40 is the thinnest that you should go, and 15W-50 or 20W-50 will give the most protection (as the owner's manual suggests).

                        Transaction Feedback: LINK

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                        • bmwm42
                          R3V OG
                          • Nov 2010
                          • 6300

                          #27
                          Easy to replace without removing front cover just use a rag to cover bolts from falling
                          Originally posted by bmwm42
                          PNW vulture pm me for parts
                          Strategic nw e30 command

                          Comment

                          • duleymane///iS
                            Advanced Member
                            • Jun 2012
                            • 153

                            #28
                            cool i plan on doing this soon, i ordered all the parts from pelican parts for the mess under the intake, i am just waiting to order the cam gears, brakes are soon as well.. i started running 20w50 the engine clicks alot in the morning when i first fire it up after about 5 mins back to normal, i plan on dropping to a 10w40 in the winter as there is sub zero temps here and that 20w50 is gonna be THICK!

                            Comment

                            • duleymane///iS
                              Advanced Member
                              • Jun 2012
                              • 153

                              #29


                              Okay it has been awhile and I have done some work on the car, pulled the oil pan to re do the gasket for inspection and the pan was extremely clean. There was no plastic, metal, any kinda shavings I was relieved. The video I posted is my car warming up yesterday it makes that ticking as you can hear then... stops and it will continue to stop until I get on it and from 3k-45k on the tacho it comes back. Let me know if any M42 mastermind knows this tick

                              Comment

                              • roguetoaster
                                R3V OG
                                • Jan 2012
                                • 7753

                                #30
                                Still sounds like classic chain tick from what I hear. If the tensioner is new, your chain is "stretched" (read as worn), you gears are worn or (one or more of) your guides are worn out/gone even if you found no debris.

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