Switching to synthetic oil

[Solarian]

How's the BMW branded synthetic oil? I got some from my local dealer for cheap due to a promotion they had. I haven't put it in because my car is still in pieces, but there was a big deal being made about only using BMW branded coolant, so I figured the oil would be good too. This is a pic of it. http://imgur.com/a/S4jJz

[noid]

Just going to chime in because I have done a great deal of research on oil since I got into cars and especially to find the perfect one for my M42 since no one ever seemed to agree.

Don't run synthetic oil in your M42. It was not designed for it, it will not help, and it will be worse for your engine than running a good mineral oil. It won't harm your engine, but using a good mineral oil will be much better for your engine.

Use Castrol GTX. ZDDP is a little over 1400ppm, and it ranks among the best for flash, pour, and ash in each weight grade.

10w30 Castrol GTX year-round, or in very cold climates bump down to 5w30 in winter.

I would recheck those ZDDP numbers, I consulted Castrol directly and they suggested AGAINST using their GTX oil in tappet engines.

Here is their email response:

From: Castrol Contact Centre <contactus@bp.com>
Sent: Friday, September 21, 2012 11:29:18 AM
Subject: Ticket#37242/Castrol/Looking for oil for a flat tappet engine -- has been updated



--Please enter your response above this line--
This ticket has been updated by VF - Castrol Representative

Thank you for contacting Castrol

Classic cars with flat tappet cam engines represent a special case in regards to engine oil lubrication. These engines have valve train configurations that require elevated levels of zddp (zinc dialkyl dithiophosphate) anti-wear for proper protection of the flat tappet camshaft and its lifters. Insufficient concentration of zddp will lead to premature wear and failure of the camshaft and lifters. Current GF-4 and GF-5 fuel economy grade engine oils are designed for extended life of the catalytic convertors in modern passenger cars and have industry mandated limitations on the amount of sulfur and phosphorus within the oil.

Castrol SYNTEC 20W-50 classic car formulation has been replaced by Castrol with SYNTEC Power Technology 5W-50 viscosity grade. The 5W-50 grade has also been specially formulated for classic car use and has adopted the 20W-50 claims - designed for use in classic cars. The 5W-50 formulation contains more zinc additives than the 20W-50 and will also enhance start up ability in cold temperatures as well as enable better fuel economy.*

*Compared to SAE 20W-50.

Castrol always recommends following the guidelines of the original engine manufacturer for the recommended grade and API specific to your application. This information can be found in the vehicles owner's manual or by contacting the manufacturer directly.

Castrol Consumer Relations

[Vtec?lol]

Castrol GTX or Rotella.
use a little trans fluid in the oil toward the end of the oils life to clean up sludge. Works excellent.

[Threehz]

Just going to chime in because I have done a great deal of research on oil since I got into cars and especially to find the perfect one for my M42 since no one ever seemed to agree.

Don't run synthetic oil in your M42. It was not designed for it, it will not help, and it will be worse for your engine than running a good mineral oil. It won't harm your engine, but using a good mineral oil will be much better for your engine.

Use Castrol GTX. ZDDP is a little over 1400ppm, and it ranks among the best for flash, pour, and ash in each weight grade.

10w30 Castrol GTX year-round, or in very cold climates bump down to 5w30 in winter.

[noid]

Not anymore, it doesn't. "LE" Rotella has something like 800 ppm, not really enough.

The Mobil 15-50 is pretty good at 1200 ppm.

Or you can just put in a bit of ZDDP additive- several reputable cam manufacturers
market it, and they stand behind their cams... when used with it.

fwiw
t

I emailed shell in regards to this in September and this was their response:

From: "shelltechnical-ca@shell.com" <shelltechnical-ca@shell.com>
Sent: Monday, September 24, 2012 1:45:49 PM
Subject: RE: Oil zddp levels and tappet engines. Your reference 35180422

Hi,

We no longer make a 20W-50 engine oil but you can use Shell Rotella T Triple Protection 15W-40, which contain a ZDDP level higher than 1100 ppm.

Regards

Bello


15w40 is more then sufficient for our engines because Rotella T/diesel oils have a much higher thermal breakdown resistance over gasoline oils.

We are talking about an oil that is 12 dollars a GALLON at wal-mart.

[wazzu70]

Not anymore, it doesn't. "LE" Rotella has something like 800 ppm, not really enough.

The Mobil 15-50 is pretty good at 1200 ppm.

Or you can just put in a bit of ZDDP additive- several reputable cam manufacturers
market it, and they stand behind their cams... when used with it.

fwiw
t

Like Toby said, you can buy ZDDP additive to make sure you are getting a proper amount :)

[TobyB]

Rotella has tons of zddp for our tappet engines.

Not anymore, it doesn't. "LE" Rotella has something like 800 ppm, not really enough.

The Mobil 15-50 is pretty good at 1200 ppm.

Or you can just put in a bit of ZDDP additive- several reputable cam manufacturers
market it, and they stand behind their cams... when used with it.

fwiw
t

[noid]

EPA regulations have drastically reduced the capabilities of gasoline oils over the years including the much needed zddp for our tappet engines.

Diesel oil is just like gasoline oil, expect it is not regulated as toughly.

I know numerous guys who use Rotella T in powersport racing engines (powersport engines are also tappet engines.). These engines live their whole lives at 10,000rpm and I can attest to the capability of this dirt-cheap-yet-awesome oil.

[bmwman91]

http://castrolcrew.com/Community/?t=38

"When BMW first spec'd Castrol 10w60 for M cars it was back when the e46 m3 first came out in 2001 model year. It was the Castrol RS 10w60, a really high performance motor oil, ester-based and with a lashing of castor oil additive. A little later, when Castrol moved to make the 10w60 a PAO base stock, BMW "fixed" the ester formulation in the form of TWS. In its specific application, it is a tremendous oil - - you can't buy better."

[M3Philipp]

Thanks BMWMan, I didnt know about this!

Another thing.
There is Castrol 10w60 RS, AND Castrol 10w60 TWS. However I bought TWS, but what is the deal with the RS? It is a bit cheaper, but not much.

[bmwman91]

Are you sure? I think FULL SYNTHETIC 10w40 does not even exist.
Full synthetic is atleast 0w40 or 5w40 im sure, 5w40 most of the time is an hydrocracked oil, while 0w40 should always be a full synthethic one.
While 10w40 is either a mineral oil, half synthetic one, or hydrocrack one which is similiar to half synthetic.
By the way Im running Castrol TWS 10w60 on my m42 now.

Mobil 1 makes 10W-40 full synthetic.

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Files/Mobil_1_Product_Guide.pdf

Forget synthetic, go 15w40 shell rotella diesel oil. Rotella has tons of zddp for our tappet engines.

Interdasting...

[noid]

Forget synthetic, go 15w40 shell rotella diesel oil. Rotella has tons of zddp for our tappet engines.

[M3Philipp]

Are you sure? I think FULL SYNTHETIC 10w40 does not even exist.
Full synthetic is atleast 0w40 or 5w40 im sure, 5w40 most of the time is an hydrocracked oil, while 0w40 should always be a full synthethic one.
While 10w40 is either a mineral oil, half synthetic one, or hydrocrack one which is similiar to half synthetic.
By the way Im running Castrol TWS 10w60 on my m42 now.

[brianf408]

Switched to Castrol 10w40 full synthetic on my last change, and I haven't leaked any more oil than with conventional oil. Definitely make the change.

[M3Philipp]

But a 15w50 full synthetic, will not leak more, than a 10w40 half synthetic, or even a 10w40 mineral oil, right?
It is even thicker when cold, thicker when on temperature, it should leak less, or am I wrong?