M42 Overheated...No start (with video)

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • kwill22
    replied
    Would've never happened if the M42 was running. Lol

    Get well soon

    Leave a comment:


  • Vivek
    replied
    Originally posted by kkamakasi
    Any updates on this OP?? Did you replace t-stat? Did it help?
    No real updates yet. Basically waiting for an engine from Steven on this forum. I also recently hurt myself in a motorcycle accident so working on my car just hasn't been happening with me being in bed for the past week.

    Leave a comment:


  • kwill22
    replied
    Make it happen

    Leave a comment:


  • chodedub
    replied
    I'm having the same issue with my 91 318 m42, po overheated the engine felt it bog passing a semi then pulled over shut it down. Did a dry compression test with similar results as u then a dry one again with similar results. So I now have a winter project, rebuilding the motor as does my body shop owner friend the body. If all goes well I will be on the road this spring early summer, then next winter rebuild again for BOOST!!!

    Leave a comment:


  • kkamakasi
    replied
    Any updates on this OP?? Did you replace t-stat? Did it help?

    Leave a comment:


  • kwill22
    replied
    100 bucks is high for just resurfacing. Is that Cali markup?

    If you swap engines. Still search for a head and build an M42 turbo!!!!

    Leave a comment:


  • bmwman91
    replied
    The passenger side radiator hose is going to feel considerably cooler than the driver's side one because it is the outlet from the radiator...it is the coolant that has been cooled off.

    Leave a comment:


  • Vivek
    replied
    Originally posted by Dj Buttchug
    the cheapest I could do a hg and top end job with new valve seats gaskets ect was around 400 some bucks.

    kinda a sucky situation. GL OP
    Thanks. I can get a new engine and tranny for 350. I'll probably just end up doing that, just want to confirm that the bubbles in the radiator are combustion gases, although everything clearly points to that being the case. Also, do you know why the hose on the exhaust side of the thermostat housing would be cold even though the temp gauge is reading halfway or higher? I've also wanted to pull my engine out for a while to clean up my bay and my trans leaks (along with my engine from the oil filter housing and some other places). Oh well, it'll be a good time to get some stuff done and clean up my bay, also swap my steering rack with the e36 one I've been putting off for a while.

    Leave a comment:


  • Dj Buttchug
    replied
    the cheapest I could do a hg and top end job with new valve seats gaskets ect was around 400 some bucks.

    kinda a sucky situation. GL OP

    Leave a comment:


  • roguetoaster
    replied
    Originally posted by Vivek
    In all likelihood, if the heads cracked, I may just swap in a new engine. A new head would be 1-200, if I can find one. Then probably a hundred at a machine shop to get it resurfaced, and easily 200 for the headgasket and other seals and gaskets for it. At that point I'd be into it more than the price of a new m42. And I can source one from a friend locally who's swapping his so I know the history and mileage on the engine, and I've driven the car and it's always felt stronger than my m42.
    If it's simply a matter of cost then by all means go for a new used engine, but if you can afford it a refreshed M42 top end/timing components/water pump should be reliable for years. Anyway, with some thought before hand you can easily take the M42 out and replace it in under 2.5 hours. Whereas you might be that long just getting the exhaust manifold off of the damaged cylinder head!

    Leave a comment:


  • Vivek
    replied
    In all likelihood, if the heads cracked, I may just swap in a new engine. A new head would be 1-200, if I can find one. Then probably a hundred at a machine shop to get it resurfaced, and easily 200 for the headgasket and other seals and gaskets for it. At that point I'd be into it more than the price of a new m42. And I can source one from a friend locally who's swapping his so I know the history and mileage on the engine, and I've driven the car and it's always felt stronger than my m42.

    Leave a comment:


  • LoneWolf
    replied
    Originally posted by roguetoaster
    Sometimes they can be hard to find, and shipping is often a 25% price increase over base cost. But I do agree with your sentiment, crack sealer is not the right solution in this case.

    Replace the stem seals when you get it resurfaced (along with the timing cover) if you get a new to you cylinder head!
    This.

    M42 stuff isn't as common and cheap as it once was. Still cheaper than most other engines I suppose.

    Leave a comment:


  • roguetoaster
    replied
    Originally posted by wazzu70
    Just replace the head with a known good one. Its not like M42 heads are really expensive!
    Sometimes they can be hard to find, and shipping is often a 25% price increase over base cost. But I do agree with your sentiment, crack sealer is not the right solution in this case.

    Replace the stem seals when you get it resurfaced (along with the timing cover) if you get a new to you cylinder head!

    Leave a comment:


  • wazzu70
    replied
    Just replace the head with a known good one. Its not like M42 heads are really expensive!

    Leave a comment:


  • DesertBMW
    replied
    Originally posted by Vivek
    I suppose I could try that block sealer...wouldn't have much to lose.
    With the KW you must drain all of the water from the block, the block drain is located on passenger side rear block, 19mm bolt. Remove spark plugs let it all dry for at least 24hrs, if you live in colder weather, allow 2 days.

    Leave a comment:

Working...