91 318is, no crank, no prime

[dickfitzwell]

problem solved. for future use of others with similar problems; replaced the starter and like magic sauce she purred like a rabid kitten... #datM42tho

[varg]

Or are you suggesting jumping it with the screwdriver method or starter trigger?

Yes, that would be the way to do it since you already know you have voltage at the starter.

[dickfitzwell]

In any no-crank situation after verifying the battery is good and the connections are sound, you want to check to see if the starter trigger circuit is working. With the key off, jump the starter trigger terminal straight from the battery and see if the engine cranks. If it does, the starter is good and the problem is that the trigger is not seeing any voltage when you turn the key to the start position, if it does not crank then the starter is bad.

Any good methods to do this with the battery in the trunk? Or are you suggesting jumping it with the screwdriver method or starter trigger?


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[varg]

In any no-crank situation after verifying the battery is good and the connections are sound, you want to check to see if the starter trigger circuit is working. With the key off, jump the starter trigger terminal straight from the battery and see if the engine cranks. If it does, the starter is good and the problem is that the trigger is not seeing any voltage when you turn the key to the start position, if it does not crank then the starter is bad.

[dickfitzwell]

Starter Fuse (#10?) OK?

Not sure if this really adds anything different to what has been suggested, but see #2,5,10 in the no start trouble shooting progression here:

http://blog.bavauto.com/3562/no-start-1989-325i-e30/

And just in case you need it:
http://www.armchair.mb.ca/~dave/BMW/e30/e30_91.pdf

Yes, fuse #10 is Ok. I was using the bavauto link earlier and is how i came about the voltage figures seen above.

[Boris3]

Starter Fuse (#10?) OK?

Not sure if this really adds anything different to what has been suggested, but see #2,5,10 in the no start trouble shooting progression here:

http://blog.bavauto.com/3562/no-start-1989-325i-e30/

And just in case you need it:

http://www.armchair.mb.ca/~dave/BMW/e30/e30_91.pdf

[dickfitzwell]

Sorry I think I was being sort of unclear. There's a ground strap on the starter that connects the solenoid area to the main body, which is grounded by being bolted to the tranny. The engine is grounded to the chassis by a strap on the passenger side down by the exhaust manifold. Do both look intact?

the grounding strap from the passenger motor mount to the frame rail looks intact, albeit a bit ratty though. i'm going to get a new strap put on in place of that in a few. as for the starter, all the wires look to be in good order.

[bmwman91]

Sorry I think I was being sort of unclear. There's a ground strap on the starter that connects the solenoid area to the main body, which is grounded by being bolted to the tranny. The engine is grounded to the chassis by a strap on the passenger side down by the exhaust manifold. Do both look intact?

[dickfitzwell]

Do you read 12V between the biggest wire on the back of the starter and ground? How does the ground strap on the starter look? It is grounded through its connection to the tranny bellhousing, so if the engine ground strap on the passenger side is busted, you'll not have much luck.

If you have 12V there, then it might be that the starter is jammed, and trying to crank it like that will just overheat the coils. You might want to think about removing it and disassembling it to clean it.

I just went down and tested a few electrical components, here is what i found:
1) 12V @ main relay point with key in start and without. Continuous.
2) 12V @ fuel relay with key in start.
3)12.3V @ starter no key inserted.
4)12V @ starter with key in start.
--- both tests utilizing the big strap on the starter (M42 starter, strap on driver side of the starter) and a viable ground.
5) 11.8V @ fuel pump between pins 1/3 key in start.

[bmwman91]

Do you read 12V between the biggest wire on the back of the starter and ground? How does the ground strap on the starter look? It is grounded through its connection to the tranny bellhousing, so if the engine ground strap on the passenger side is busted, you'll not have much luck.

If you have 12V there, then it might be that the starter is jammed, and trying to crank it like that will just overheat the coils. You might want to think about removing it and disassembling it to clean it.

[dickfitzwell]

does the engine crank? you stated you have zero crank so im assuming no just to clarify.


Tap the starter and check all the connections to it.

Also try bump start?

edit just re read.

Zero crank, tapped on the starter to no avail


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[Dj Buttchug]

does the engine crank? you stated you have zero crank so im assuming no just to clarify.


Tap the starter and check all the connections to it.

Also try bump start?

edit just re read.

[dickfitzwell]

Have you checked the fusible link?

my bad, i thought I updated with that earlier. fusible link looks damn near brand new, making contact and is good. i did, albeit on a whim, just checked the ohms on the CPS and its at 530 +/- 10 (i can't remember the exact # for some reason now). i've been reading it should be ~680... could it still indeed be the CPS?

[jntar]

took the battery in this morning, it was at 60% charge so they charged it up to 100% like new, and after reinstalling it nothing has
-Aaron

Have you checked the fusible link?

[dickfitzwell]

Checked for spark and there was nothing. had the battery charged and its at 100%, fusible link is good, i can hear the starter "click" when i turn the ignition "ON". i can hear the Main Relay click when i turn the ignition "ON" and stomp test has shown 1444 before and after the battery was removed and charged.

when i pulled the spark plugs they are yellowish in color, and i could not smell the presence of fuel. i also removed the small hose from the FPR and attempted to start the car to see if any fuel would come out and there was nothing.

this is what the spark plugs look like. this cylinder #1: