Right, new thermostat housing is in, no leaks. Flushed the block with a hose as well. Both radiator hoses now get warm/hot when the temp gauge is in the middle. Steam now comes out of the bleeder screw when the gauge moves past middle. Is there anything left to do other than bleed it?
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Fill it up and bleed it. Set the heater to full-heat and max blower speed to ensure that the valve is open. When you put the thermostat housing on I assume that you noticed the little bypass groove between the inlet/outlet? With that clean and clear, you'll probably get 90% of the air out in the first 15 seconds after starting it (I have heard it make a whistling noise as air is rushed out). If it is blocked, no biggie, just run it until it is warmed up and then open the bleed screw. When you hold it at ~3000RPM and no more air bubbles come out, you are done!Comment
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Funny stuff today. Got it seemingly bled, started up, came up to temp in the center and stayed there. Took a few victory laps around the block for ~20 minutes with no hood on and pulled back into my driveway. Spent a few minutes cleaning out the garage when I look outside and see coolant pissing out of the car again. The lower rad hose got blown off slightly and was bubbling out of there. Loosened the bleed screw to relieve pressure and steam comes hissing out of there. Let the car cool down a bit, reattached the hose, tightened all my clamps, refilled coolant, bled some more bubbles out, try again. This time, coolant forces its way out from under the expansion tank cap when it comes up to temp if I have the bleed screw shut. The cap seems to be missing an o-ring according to pictures of them so I ordered one. Also getting a new bleed screw because the one I have is bent.
In other news, my speedometer stopped working. It occasionally reads ~20 mph if I smack the cluster pretty hard. Other times it waves up and down between 0-20, mostly it's just stuck at the bottom. Maybe I fucked up plugging in the diff speed sensor when I did rear shocks, maybe I broke something when I jumped the car with a trickle charger after it ran out of battery.
The mystery continues...Comment
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Damn. It sounds a little bit like the head gasket is leaking exhaust gases into your coolant system. Hopefully someone else can chime in with a less-sinister theory!Comment
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I'm kind of inclined to believe exhaust is leaking into the coolant as well. Drove the car for like an hour today around the block, didn't overheat but I get a bit of steam coming out around the expansion tank cap. No hose explosions this time. Hoses were hard after the car cooled down and a bunch of gas rushed out of the cap when I opened it after it cooled. Coolant level was close to the top of the tank until I burped a bunch of bubbles out of the system. Being that the car doesn't overheat and stuff isn't blowing up, how much of a ticking time bomb is the gasket? Gonna look for an antifreeze HC test kit to confirm.Last edited by Aufbau Principle; 06-25-2014, 05:10 PM.Comment
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Yup, coolant gas tester turned yellow/green when I stuck it in the expansion tank. Didn't even need an external vacuum, the gas pushed through the valve without help. Kinda looks like there's a bit of oil in the expansion tank too. Anything else to check before yanking the head?Comment
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I can't think of anything, really. It sounds like either the HG, or a crack in the head, which is somewhat common between the exhaust valves of cylinder 2 or 3. I'll cross my fingers for you that it is just the HG.Comment
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Slowly coming apart...
engine (3 of 5) by AP Photomatic, on Flickr
engine (1 of 5) by AP Photomatic, on Flickr
engine (4 of 5) by AP Photomatic, on Flickr
Exhaust nuts are a pain. Some come off with the studs, others don't.
There was a fair amount of oil on spark plugs 3 and 4. Oil and water in the intake manifold. Bit of milky oil at the front of the valve cover in the timing case area. Any of those major causes of concern?Last edited by Aufbau Principle; 06-28-2014, 02:32 PM.Comment
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Hmmmm...maybe a just a leaky profile gasket? I don't think that would explain the over-pressure situation in the coolant system, but it could be a cause for milky oil in the timing case.Comment
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Fuck :(
crack (1 of 1) by AP Photomatic, on Flickr
Guess I'll take a look around and see what the going rate is for welding that or getting a new head. Gonna sell this bitch if it's more than like $200.Comment
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Crap, sorry to see that a crack was the cause. Good luck! M42 heads seem to be fairly cheap and common.Comment
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That sucks. Had the same hairline except it connected to a coolant hole. Sucks but with a little searching you can find another head quickDENY IGNORANCE!
Schwarz 325-totaled
brilliantrot 318i-daily
Originally posted by mkcman17
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No affiliation with me.
Low mileage M42 head for sale in Boston. Not sure how reputable the guy is, but you might be able to check it out in person.Comment
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