so i thought i double checked everything, i filled her up with oil and filter, pulled out spark plugs, fuel pump relay and fuel pump fuse #11 and tried to turn her over to pump the oil but i got nothing.
the dash lights turned on, radio turned on, headlights work, but the power windows controls don't work and neither does the heater controls to turn on the fan or a/c.
i dont know much about electrical, i just put everything back where it was unplugged from. could it be the starter? alternator?
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Got it. I got new stuff under the intake, put the lower and upper intake manifolds, injectors and rail, throttle body, air box, valve cover and spark plug. All the connectors had a home so nothing is just dangling. I am about to get started on the cooling system stuff now. Once everything is back on, I assume I refill all fluids like oil, trans and coolant and take out flywheel locking pin. Is there a checklist I can go through for the 1st start? I don’t wanna mess up after everything up to this point. I read I remove fuel pump relay (the middle one in the harness on the firewall I think) then turn the key and everything turns on and it’s supposed to turn over to pump the oil until the oil pressure light goes away. Am I supposed to leave the spark plugs in during this step? Lastly put back the fuel pump relay and then turn the key and it should fire up?Leave a comment:
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Every time I see that diagram I wish I had used different colors when I made it about ten years ago...
As to the lines, replace them now, and as tempting as it may be to reuse a coolant hose with a slight twist to adapt the dissimilar sized nipples just don't. Also, replace the water pipe/gasket with a new one while you are there as it will just crack up in the near future.Leave a comment:
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mini update. i know it's been a while cuz life happens. i was able to mate the transmission up. hopefully i didn't break anything. i got the engine and trans in the bay after wrestling with it but it finally got in on on the motor mounts. i bolted up the driveshaft and exhaust under the car, which reminds me i gotta hook up the clutch slave cylinder.
but now i am working up top and trying to address the mess under the intake. i've removed many hoses thus far, but i was wondering if any of these hose can be reused for other areas. for example the nipple at the top of the water pipe to the nipple in the bottom middle of the cylinder head? some of the hoses have some gunk in it that can be washed out but overall look and feel like they are still in good condition.
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Today I just had no luck. Now that the dust has settled after all the family holiday festivities, I took another shot at mating the transmission. I ordered another clutch alignment tool for a 318 and when it arrived it looked exactly like the one I had. Go figure. On top of that I stripped out a pressure plate bolt. I’’ve been reading how finicky this clutch disc alignment is for BMW’s. I’ve read somewhere or maybe in the replies here l but not sure how I would do this. A thread I read said to line up everything and finger tighten the bellhousing bolts. Drop engine and trans back into car and hook up pedal assembly and have a friend press in the clutch will I’m wiggling the transmission and it will slide the disc into alignment and push the shaft all the way into the pilot bearing What do ya’ll think? It sounds sketchy but I’m losing hope for something that should be so simple.Leave a comment:
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In the past, I have just wrapped the tool with duct tape to increase the diameter and get a better fit (when it's Sunday evening and you need the thing running in the morning...you improvise!).Leave a comment:
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Shoot. I don't know the ID. The shop installed one for me. Taking a pic of the front of it won't help will it?Leave a comment:
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Bingo, although I'd be surprised that the 6 cyl one didn't work as I would've bet that the splines wouldn't have changed between a G240/M42 and E36 manual setups. Pretty sure I have a couple of M42 tools around, but I'd need to know the ID of your pilot bearing first so I can send you one that will work the first time.Leave a comment:
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roguetoaster no i didn't , i am reusing the one from previous owner i think it was less than 20K miles on it. so would i need to buy the 318 alignment tool or DIY one out of my 6 cylinder one?Leave a comment:
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Well, okay then. Surprised that your new clutch didn't come with one. You did get a new clutch, right?Leave a comment:
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Ok so this might be a noob error buuut....the clutch alignment tool I had looks like it was my old one for when I did a transmission job on my e36 325i. It’s definitely the clutch dis alignment. I took it out again to see if the transmission inserts all the way again and it still does haha. I realized that there’s a lot of play from the top of the alignment tool and where the pilot bearing is. Is the alignment tool different between a 318 and 325?Leave a comment:
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I bought threaded rods about the same size and length as the bellhousing bolts then used them as long guide pins. I forget what size but take one of your bolts to the hardware store to match.
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New clutch/PP/TOB? For kicks, make sure you have the TOB/release arm in the correct orientation, shouldn't cause an issue with fitment if you did, but might make operating the clutch tricky.
You can also rotate the engine during install if you think that would be helpful. Depending on where the engine is placed it can be significantly difficult to install the transmission if the angles of the two mating surfaces are severely dissimilar, but normally the trans should slip right on.
Make sure the pilot bearing hole isn't full of stuff as well, and just roughly measure the diameters of the input shaft/bearing to rule out that the shop didn't change it just to be helpful.Leave a comment:
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