Need advice from experience for an M42 rebuild

[JonsE30]

i got the head back on, but im looking at the side where the intake and exhaust manifolds go and some are missing the studs, i see them on the old head, is there a method to remove them safely or does this need to be replaced?

[roguetoaster]

Should be pretty close to TDC. Why not install the oil filter housing and verify if you need accuracy for timing chain install?

[JonsE30]

i was able to take the ones off the hold head with some penetrant oil and they slid right off without damage. i've read in the back comments to crank it reverse 45 or to the point where none of the pistons sit at the top of the block before installing the head so there's no interference with the valves. i dont have any of the timing stuff on yet, but i am able to use my hand to crank enough for the pistons to lower. after i install the head, torque it down to spec, then install the cams at tdc, how do i get the crank back to tdc before i start putting all the sprokets and chain on? it's on an engine stand so i cant get the flywheel on it to use the locking pin tool.

i put the crankshaft pulley on lining up the peg and hand cranked it until the most front cylinder's piston is all the way at the top. the crank pulley has a void that is facing up and 6 teeth to the right of it there is a line in the tooth and its where the oil filter housing is. is this top dead center?

[roguetoaster]

Can't confirm in either case, but I vaguely recall ending up with the wrong dowel pin initially when I had my engine apart all those years ago. Your best bet would be to measure the holes for the dowels as the part numbers correspond to different sizes, and do try to put dowels back in the same places they came out of.

[JonsE30]

roguetoaster you're right. that hole was the idler gear. the case i got is off a 1993 E36 M42.

For the deflection rail, i need to get those 2 bolts for it since there was not any that can transfer from the old lower timing case. Do you know if i can just order the same bolts that are used for the lower guide rail under the crank sprocket? Also i was looking at real oem for the part numbers and i wanted to confirm the part numbers to order, are these the right pieces?

dowel pins : part number: 11121726241


timing chain guide bolts: 07119919824 x 2

[roguetoaster]

You probably only need enough dowel pins to realistically locate the head/block before tightening. Consulted old rebuild pics on my M42, and the engine had two when disassembled, and I put two new ones in place during reassembly.

The hole looks like it ought to house the idler gear if it were an E30 M42, but I think that actualy mounts the deflection rail as yours appears to be a late M42/M44. What did that engine come from again?

[JonsE30]

Edit: I figured out both of those holes are go to the guide and the pin sits to the side of the guide. Also i was transferring parts to the new lower timing case and this is the only thread hole I donÂ’t have anything for. WhatÂ’s supposed to go there? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[JonsE30]

i was looking at my tear down pics and i think i only had 1 dowel guide pin at the top right. these things are expensive: part number is 11121713264. it looks like there are 10 of them on the block. Do i really need all 10? They are around $10/each so that's another $100 in parts....

[nando]

Pull the FP relay and crank it until the oil pressure dummy light turns off.

[JonsE30]

So i got the block back from the shop and i can start reassembly.

The block came back cleaned, re-decked, resurfaced and rebalanced. The cylinders walls were good to be able to reused my pistons, rods with new rings, bolts, bearings and caps. I told them my plans to use the late model m42 e36 lower timing case and they were nice to put it on for me. They also did the upper and lower oil pans.

So i guess the plan is now to:
1) prepare re-valved head: transfer camshafts, trays, caps and lifters from old head to re-valved head
2) get crank and cams and tdc (gonna use the flywheel and locking pin) then install new gotze head gasket then install head on block, torque head down in proper sequence and spec, i think i need to buy those dowel guides for the head to sit on the block while i torque it down.
3) reinstall crank sprocket, guide rails, tensioner and chain and cam gears in the right position, then install timing gaskets and covers
4) reinstall valve cover

i know each of these steps have a lot of their mini steps within them but is this the right path to take?
how do i prime it with oil before everything gets put back together or is the assemble lube good enough?

[JonsE30]

thanks guys for the advice, placed the order while the site was down. parts are shipped and in transit! i will try to vlog and snap pics of the reassembly so i can document as much as possible.

[roguetoaster]

^
This is correct, but considering the high cost of hardware failure and PITA factor they should be replaced whenever you remove the FW. Also, some M42s came with 8.8 bolts, and those should get 10.9 bolts according to some obscure TSB.

Further info for that same area, it should be remembered that there are 2x pilot bearing sizes amd what you'll need will be predicated by your input shaft.

[varg]

They aren't TTY, you can reuse them as long as they aren't stretched or damaged, they just need thread sealant.

[roguetoaster]

They can be reused if you don't have an alternative, but it's not suggested at all. For $20 I'd replace them.

[JonsE30]

clutch was replaced less than 30k ago, can the flywheel bolts be reused?