M42 from E36 into E30

[Gloff]

The thing that worries me is, if I do return this and get a motor from another donor, I may end up with the same issue potentially. Is this corrosion a non-issue since it's behind the o-ring on the block/pump interface, or should I be concerned here?

[TobyB]

That doesn't look too unusual for an engine that's been sitting- see if you can look in a few other ways. Pop the heater pipe off the back of the head, maybe.

The M42 never had a plastic oil filter cover, tho- that showed up with the M44,
and the plastic heater pipe on the back of the head.

I have 12-94 and 7-95 318's, and both have aluminum oil filter covers.

t

[Gloff]

That doesn't look too unusual for an engine that's been sitting- see if you can look in a few other ways. Pop the heater pipe off the back of the head, maybe.

The M42 never had a plastic oil filter cover, tho- that showed up with the M44,
and the plastic heater pipe on the back of the head.

I have 12-94 and 7-95 318's, and both have aluminum oil filter covers.

t

It's most certainly an M42, it has the front crank sensor and no rear block pipe like the M44. a few of the M42s did get the plastic oil filter housing, not sure when the cross over was, but RealOEM does show both options for the M42.

All I want to know is, should I not be worried about this corrosion because it's past the seal, or should I return this and look for something better?

[roguetoaster]

If you are okay doing a full reseal and a real cleaning before installing the engine you can certainly run it. However, I would never personally want to buy an engine that has been sitting over one that has been run/pulled recently.

The corrosion isn't too worrying to me, but the information that the engine seller passed on certain does give me pause.

[Gloff]

If you are okay doing a full reseal and a real cleaning before installing the engine you can certainly run it. However, I would never personally want to buy an engine that has been sitting over one that has been run/pulled recently.

The corrosion isn't too worrying to me, but the information that the engine seller passed on certain does give me pause.

I'd be doing a full reseal anyway since I have to swap the pan,intake and flywheel.

What information are you referencing that gives you pause? Sourcing this engine was a pain, and I'd rather not pull a motor from a nice running E36, plus there's no guarantee it's in any better shape with the age of these motors

[roguetoaster]

Well, engines that are pulled by a wrecker are a complete unknown, and can have serious internal issues. Remember, these cars were likely crashed, possibly quite badly, which can lead to all sorts of problems, or conversely, no issues at all. Whereas, an engine pulled from a recently operable vehicle is likely to be closer to drop in a go sort of shape.

Either route is fine, and if engines are hard to source where you are you have to take what you can get, just as long as you are fully aware that it may entail more work/cost.

Let's also remember that there are very few nice E36 318i models at this point, so don't feel too bad about parting one.

[Gloff]

Well, engines that are pulled by a wrecker are a complete unknown, and can have serious internal issues. Remember, these cars were likely crashed, possibly quite badly, which can lead to all sorts of problems, or conversely, no issues at all. Whereas, an engine pulled from a recently operable vehicle is likely to be closer to drop in a go sort of shape.

Either route is fine, and if engines are hard to source where you are you have to take what you can get, just as long as you are fully aware that it may entail more work/cost.

Let's also remember that there are very few nice E36 318i models at this point, so don't feel too bad about parting one.

Makes sense, this one looks good and all in all wasn't that expensive, if it's a dud, guess I'll go the part out an E36 to save an E30 route thanks for the help!

[Gloff]

Took the valve cover off this evening, looks pretty good, rust not withstanding.

[Gloff]

Another question too: Are the Oil Filter housings interchangable? I already have a bunch of filters for the aluminum style bolt through filter housing. I see on RealOEM that the outlet uses a "bushing" with two o-rings, and the aluminum style uses one o-ring on a pressed in fitting. Is the plastic style a significant upgrade?

[roguetoaster]

Engine looks good!

Don't think there is any real value in changing filter canister types, and when it comes to parts diagrams at or near interchange years you really need to verify what's in there before ordering bits.

[Gloff]

Engine looks good!

Don't think there is any real value in changing filter canister types, and when it comes to parts diagrams at or near interchange years you really need to verify what's in there before ordering bits.

Well I know that the Plastic style has the bushing, and the aluminum does not, I am 99% positive the block is the same and the difference is in the housing itself. I'll probably order parts for both and put on the aluminum one if the block is identical.

[bmwman91]

The filter housings are interchangeable. The only difference is in the round outlet part, with the later style one using multiple o-rings, and the older E30 style one using one.

[Gloff]

The filter housings are interchangeable. The only difference is in the round outlet part, with the later style one using multiple o-rings, and the older E30 style one using one.

Aluminum it is then. Thank you!

[Gloff]

Would you replace the front crank hub? The one one the new engine is lightly scored from the seal, and a new one is $47.

Also, the rear main has a kit available with a pre-pressed rear main seal and new carrier. I thought I read something about setting it at a different depth to avoid putting it in the same scoring mark on the crank, how would I go about re-setting the depth if I order the kit? Hope that makes sense.

[Gloff]

Also, check the parts list, anything I might want to add?

11531709157 Water Pipe O Ring
11531714738 Water Pipe
11142247867 Rear main kit
11141439570 front main seal
11211721099 front hub
11431287541 Dipstick Tube seal
11131739592 Upper Pan Gasket
11131709815 Lower Pan Gasket
11141721919 Upper timing case gaskets kit
11141721802 Lower timing case gaskets kit
11141247837 Timing case profile gasket
12141727220 Cam Sensor O-Ring
11421709513 Filter housing O-Ring
11421709800 Filter housing gasket
11531721218 Thermostat O-ring
11510393338 Water Pump (comes with 11531721218 O-Ring)
07119904527 Water Pump bolts x3
11611717761 Upper manifold gasket
11611734684 Lower Manifold gasket
11811137076 Engine Mount x2
07119915558 Engine mount to block nut x4
07119904463 engine mount to block or SubFm washer x4
07119963355 Tensioner washer
07119963200 Block drain washer
07119963200 Temp sender washer rear
11222243051 Flywheel bolts x8
11211720310 Pilot bearing

Ninja edit: I'll be refreshing the trans while it's out, but don't know what it's gonna need until I pull it. Clutch ha 50K miles on it, should be good, but would get ordered if necessary.