Auto to 5speed Transmission Conversion Write up(56k no

[Marvin]

Heres the 5 speed conversion progress/write up so far.

Year: 1989
Make: BMW
Model: 325ic

Part Lists/Price Guide

5speed conversion kit i purchased from Dave Adams-92 M-technic for $600


1- included in $conversion kit


1- Cross member (Qty 1) Part# 23 71 1 176 574 - $ conversion kit
2- Rubber mounting (Qty2) Part# 23 71 1 175 939
3- Hex nut w/plate (Qty 2) Part# 23 71 1 130 253
5- Wave washer (Qty 2) Part# 07 11 9 932 095
6- Hex nut (Qty 2) Part# 07 11 9 922 856
7- Square headed bolt (Qty 2) Part# 23 71 1 130 250
9- Hex nut w/plate (Qty 2) Part# 23 71 1 130 253




1- Torx bolt (Qty 2) Part# 23 00 1 222 890
2- Torx bolt (Qty 2) Part# 23 00 1 222 893
3- Flat washer (Qty 4) Part# 07 11 9 931 699
4- Dowel (Qty 2) Part# 11 11 1 743 118
5- Torx bolt (Qty 4) Part# 23 00 1 222 887
6- Wave washer (Qty 4) Part# 07 11 9 932 095
7- Hex bolt (Qty 1) Part# 07 11 9 913 015
8- Torx bolt (Qty 2) Part# 23 00 1 222 889
9- Wave washer (Qty 2) Part# 07 11 9 932 112
10- Hex nut (Qty 2) Part# 07 12 9 900 812







1- Pressure plate (Qty 1) Part# 21 21 1 223 026 Cost $56.00 from BMA
2- Clutch disk (Qty 1) Part# 21 21 1 223 671 Cost $74.00 from BMA
3- Clutch rel. fork lever (Qty 1) Part# 21 51 1 204 229 Cost $conversion kit
4- Clutch release bearing (Qty 1) Part# 21 51 1 223 366 Cost $28.50 from BMA
5- Ball pin (Qty 1) Part# 21 51 1 202 659 Cost $.58 from BMA
6- Spring clip (Qty 1) Part# 21 51 1 204 327 Cost $1.30 from BMA
7- Screw fillister head (Qty 6) Part# 07 11 9 919 939




1- Input cylinder clutch (Qty 1) Part# 21 52 1 156 000
2- Hex bolt (Qty 2) Part# 07 11 9 913 477
4- Fit bolt (Qty 1) Part# 21 52 1 151 447
5- Self-locking hex nut (Qty 1) Part# 0712 9 946 400
7- Connector (Qty 1) Part# 21 52 1 151 697
8- Hose (Qty x) Part# 21 52 1 163 714
9- Grommet (Qty 1) Part# 21 52 1 156 082
10- Pipe (Qty 1) Part# 34 32 6 755 555
11- Connector (Qty 2) Part# 34 32 1 151 806
13- Clip (Qty 1) Part# 34 34 1 163 565
14- Output cylinder clutch (Qty 1) Part# 21 52 1 116 300
15- Vent screw (Qty 1) Part# 21 52 1 116 360
16- Protection cap (Qty 1) Part# 21 52 1 154 976
17- Knurled bolt (Qty 2) Part# 21 51 1 203 012
18- Self-locking hex nut (Qty 2) Part# 07 12 9 946 400


















1- Supporting bracket (Qty 1) Part# 35 11 1 157 719
2- Gasket (Qty 1) Part# 35 11 1 150 370
3- Self-locking collar nut (Qty 4) Part# 31 33 1 092 887
4- Flat washer (Qty 2) Part# 24 11 1 690 120
5- Hex bolt w/washer (Qty 2) Part# 07 11 9 915 160
6- Stop light switch (Qty 1) Part# 61 31 8 360 420
7- Brake pedal (Qty 1) Part# 35 21 1 154 729
8- Rubber pad (Qty 1) Part# 35 21 1 108 634
9- Bush bearing (Qty 2) Part# 35 21 1 109 541
10- Spacer sleeve (Qty 1) Part# 35 21 1 150 346
11- Tension spring (Qt 1) Part# 35 21 1 152 371
12- Grommet (Qty 2) Part# 35 41 1 113 728
13- Pin (Qty 1) Part# 34 31 1 152 270
14- Clamp (Qty 1) Part# 34 33 1 120 538
15- Clutch pedal (Qty 1) Part# 35 31 1 154 737
16- Rubber pad (Qty 1) Part# 35 21 1 108 634
17- Spacer sleeve (Qty 1) Part# 35 31 1 154 734
18- Grommet (Qty 1) Part# 35 31 1 113 725
19- Tension spring (Qty 1) Part# 35 21 1 102 383
20- Cap (Qty 1) Part# 35 31 1 153 896
21- Stop buffer (Qty 1) Part# 35 31 1 152 237
22- Compression spring (Qty 1) Part# 35 31 1 151 990
23- Fit bolt (Qty 1) Part# 35 31 1 150 407
24- Self locking hex nut (Qty 1) Part# 07 12 9 946 400
27- Bush bearing (Qty 2) Part# 21 52 1 150 345
28- Hex bolt (Qty 1) Part# 07 11 9 912 721
29- Flat washer (Qty 1) Part# 07 11 9 931 020
30- Self-locking hex nut (Qty 1) Part# 07 12 9 964 672

CONVERSION BEGINS.....

Raise up the car and place on jackstands



Disconnect the transmission accelerator cable from its bracket on the intake manifold and remove it from the throttle operating lever



Now the removal of the exhaust system. Disconnect the oxygen sensor's electrical connector.



Remove the exhaust manifold connection nuts (6), exhaust pipe transmission hanger mount, the hanger mount on the rear axle subframe and disconnect the rear muffler (2) mounting clamps.



Full exhaust system.....fully REMOVED



Remove the rear reinforcement bar and the exhaust and gas-tank heat shields.



After removing the heat shields, here's your driveshaft.



Now removing the selector lever and linkage. Start by removing the console trims.



Disconnect the electrical switch and remove (2) hex-head screws.



I removed the entire center console for easy access.



Now with the exhaust pipes and heat shield out of the way. Remove the retaining clip thats holding the selector rod and lower selector lever.



Now you can remove the selector lever



Next, removing the driveshaft.....


TO BE CONTINUED......

[Marvin]

Next, removing the driveshaft.....



First at the sliding coupling, loosen the clamping sleeve by several turns



Remove the (3) bolts that holds the flexible coupling to the transmission output flange



Do not pull the bolts yet, this will hold up the front section of the driveshaft



Now remove the (4) bolts thats holding the rear driveshaft section, but do not pull the driveshaft off



Bolts are off



Carefully loosen the (2) bolts thats holding the center section of driveshaft. Now wiggle out the driveshaft careful



Driveshaft rear section removed



Driveshaft front section removed



Yay, Driveshaft finally removed!!!!


TO BE CONTINUED.....

[Marvin]

Transmission Removal

Drain the transmission by removing the ATF sump drain plug




Remove the ATF filler tube and ATF cooler lines




Remove the transmission bump stop and the reinforcement plate at the bottom of the bellhousing by removing couple of Torx/Hex bolts




Working through the opening in the bellhousing, remove the (3)bolts that hold the torque converter to the drive plate




Support the transmission from below and remove the rear transmission by removing the bolts that hold them to the body. This will lower the rear of the transmission a bit.




Using long extensions, removed the torx bolts that holds the transmission bellhousing to the engine. Also you need to removed the bolts that hold the starter to the transmission bellhousing.




Remove the inspection grill from the bottom of the bellhousing for access to the torque converter. Use screwdriver or lever to apply pressure making sure that the torque converter stays firmly mounted to the transmission.




After removing the transmission off the engine





Yay!!!! finally got it off...



TO BE CONTINUED.......

[Marvin]

5 Speed Conversion Part Lists









Manual and Automatic Parts Comparison:






TO BE CONTINUED.....

[Marvin]

Removing Pedal

Remove the lower trim panels above the brake pedal



Panel removed



Disconnect brake light switch connector



Disconnect the pushrod from the brake pedal by disconnecting the brake pedal return spring, prying off the retaining clip, and sliding out the clevis pin.


Retaining clip and clevis pin removed



Remove vacuum booster mounting nuts (4) and remove (2) bolts by the top of the pedal



Now carefully pull out the pedal..



Pedals from a manual transmission w/ airbag needs to be modified. The top part of the pedal needs to be shorten.


TO BE CONTINUED........

[Marvin]

Are you using a Getrag 260? I've got this weird issue where my tranny is leaning to the left, and I've been suspecting the mounts and brace...

Could you do me a big favor and compare lean angles on the two crossmembers? I have the feeling that my tranny got swapped (because my car was originally automatic) and that they used the auto tranny with some modification. That's something I've wanted to fix for a while...

Yes, i'll be using Getrag 260
Hers a pic of the transmission mounts....

[Marvin]

Regarding the problem im having with the pedal assembly. After 6 beers (Corona) I started thinking to how can i solve the problem. Then it hits me. Why not just swap the bracket thats holding the pedals. As you can see on the pics. The pedal assembly from 92 M-technic w/ airbag mounting bracket is much longer than the auto's pedal assembly. THIS WILL NOT WORK!!!!....The pedal bracket from the auto doesnt have the lip (spring guide) which the compression spring (clutch pedal over-center helper spring) sits....



all that needs to change is to remove the pedal shaft bolt & transfer just the manual pedals over to the automatic bracket



Here's a pic after swaping the manual pedals to the automatic bracket.


TO BE CONTINUED......

[Marvin]

some parts that i ordered for the conversion is in back order.
probably not until after the holiday.
Sorry for the slow progress......

[Marvin]

just came back from my 2weeks vacation....
heres some more parts for the conversion.














Removing the flywheel. When removing the mounting bolts, hold the ring gear stationary using a holding fixture. I actually used an electric impact wrench to remove the bolts.











After removing the flywheel




Heres a pic of the transmission




Also installed a new clutch slave cylinder.


To be continued.....

[Marvin]

Sorry for the slow progress. Just came back from my long vacation.

Well, here it is again,
Installing the flywheel and Clutch.

I purchased new flywheel bolts and coated the threads with Loctite



Now its time to reinstall the flywheel. After the long vacation, the flywheel started to rust, so i slightly sanded it down to remove the rust.




You must use a torque wrench and a flywheel lock to tighten the flywheel. Also tighten the bolts in sequence alternating between opposite sides fo the flywheel




Shows the flywheel installed with all the bolts properly tightened to the proper torque.




Clutch alignment tool


I started installing the clutch disc and the pressure plate onto the flywheel and realize that i forgot to get new pressure plate bolts. so i guess....

TO BE CONTINUE......

[Marvin]

With the flywheel mounted, take your clutch alignment tool and place it in the center of the pilot bearing. Install the clutch disc



Then install the pressure plate onto the flywheel, compressing the clutch disc





Use new pressure plate mounting bolts




Tighten the pressure plate mounting bolts evenly until the clutch disc is firmly held in place.






Tightened pressure plate bolts down to its proper torque, then remove the alignment tool.




Pic after the clutch assembly installed





Now on the pedal assembly




Installing clutch master cylinder







Pic after installing clutch master cylinder



Test fitting





TO BE CONTINUED.....

[Digitalwave]

hhaha well i just got back form dropping my auto tranny out. I have 1 question though.. where i can i get this metal line that is shown here???? any part #/ info would help.

It's easier to use a used one since it needs to be bent. The parts car didn't have one?

[Marvin]

hhaha well i just got back form dropping my auto tranny out. I have 1 question though.. where i can i get this metal line that is shown here???? any part #/ info would help.

part # 34 32 6 755 555

[Bryson]

both lines can be unbolted from the radiator with no ill effects. They have to be snaked out from underneath the car unless you remove things in the engine compartment

[Marvin]

Removing the the (2) transmission lines

Shows how the lines are attached to the front transmission cooler, which is located in front of the engine radiator (shows the upper line)



(shows the lower line)





Loosen using the correct wrench. You should be able to pull the lines out of the connector.





The line can then be snaked out and around the suspension for removal. Pic of the transmission line after removing.




Shift coupler




Mount the coupler on the transmission and tap in the pin that secures it to the selector shaft. Make sure that you place the small retaining clip on the selector shaft prior to tapping in the pin.






When the pin is tapped in, move the retaining clip to cover.




Now the Transmission...



Lightly lubricate the clutch disc splines and the transmission input shaft splines




Also grease up this rubber piece





Install the throw-out fork. The fork is attached at one end with a small metal clip.




Use grease to pact the release bearing lubricating groove and to coat the guides.




Install the release bearing




Pics after everything assembled



TO BE CONTINUED.......