Axle nut removal

[digger]

Blast from the past but incase anyone elase tackles this job i can confirm what was stated already the locking plate goes on after the big nut. It is supossed to be hammered/deformed over the nut so it actually does its function and locks the nut and helps reduce risk of it unwinding. I think the risk is exremely low if torque half decently but it is what it is.

If the plate is put under the nut its acting as a useless glorified washer.

[zaq123]

Blast from the past but incase anyone elase tackles this job i can confirm what was stated already the locking plate goes on after the big nut. It is supossed to be hammered/deformed over the nut so it actually does its function and locks the nut and helps reduce risk of it unwinding. I think the risk is exremely low if torque half decently but it is what it is.

If the plate is put under the nut its acting as a useless glorified washer.

Just to confirm: the hub is machined with a outer diameter as big as that locking plate and the slightly smaller dimeter further into the hub. Those 3 slotted groves are going uniformly all the way down into the hub. Does that locking plate gets pushed in (over the nut) all the way to the bottom of the hub (into the smaller diameter)? What is the best way to push it all the way down? The same 30mm socket doesn't work too well as it pinches the locking plate on the nut.

[roguetoaster]

Just to confirm: the hub is machined with a outer diameter as big as that locking plate and the slightly smaller dimeter further into the hub. Those 3 slotted groves are going uniformly all the way down into the hub. Does that locking plate gets pushed in (over the nut) all the way to the bottom of the hub (into the smaller diameter)? What is the best way to push it all the way down? The same 30mm socket doesn't work too well as it pinches the locking plate on the nut.

You just tap or smash it on, and I've had it go on smoothly or take real force, which causes me to suspect that the manufacturing tolerances on them are all over the map. The socket you used for the nut generally works well, but a 1-1/4" socket can also work just for the plate. It is usually advisable to buy three for a job when you take out both axles in case one gets too warped to work.

[zaq123]

You just tap or smash it on, and I've had it go on smoothly or take real force, which causes me to suspect that the manufacturing tolerances on them are all over the map. The socket you used for the nut generally works well, but a 1-1/4" socket can also work just for the plate. It is usually advisable to buy three for a job when you take out both axles in case one gets too warped to work.

Thank you for those tips. I just don't want to go through all that banging on the bearing after taking care not to do so with proper bearing/hub and axle pressing tools. Seems like there should be a simple way to drive that sucker. I tried 1.25" PVC pipe that fits well over 30mm nut. It seems that PVC pope walls are too thick and won't let the retainer compress into the smaller diameter of the hub. Those freaking axles so far are the most frastreting part of this complete restoration. First I thought that I had a defective axle: one was going into the hub perfectly and other did not ( I'm using GKN axles, not some cheap crap). After spending 5 hours marking its splines with the paint marker, looking for interference spots and working it gently with a mini file.....I learned that some e30 axles are actually pressed it. Ok, one 22mm special tool later, axles are in. Now that stupid locking plate. WTF?

[roguetoaster]

Think about tapping the hub with a hammer and a socket. Now think about sliding through two off axis 90 degree corners and ask yourself if tapping it with a hammer will hurt the car. If you are still really worried, try to use a puller of some type as an on car press.

Not sure about axles being a press fit, rather they should normally just about slide in with slight persuasion, however, some axles are coated with something during their (re)manufacturing processes, making them slightly larger than the splines. Clearly, too much lash is bad, but so is a too tight fit that does not allow for some movement.

[zaq123]

Think about tapping the hub with a hammer and a socket. Now think about sliding through two off axis 90 degree corners and ask yourself if tapping it with a hammer will hurt the car. If you are still really worried, try to use a puller of some type as an on car press.

Not sure about axles being a press fit, rather they should normally just about slide in with slight persuasion, however, some axles are coated with something during their (re)manufacturing processes, making them slightly larger than the splines. Clearly, too much lash is bad, but so is a too tight fit that does not allow for some movement.

step 15 in the below link is what I'm talking about. Looks like some half-shaft axles are meant to be pressed in. There are some that not, they are some that are. It just threw me off that the same manufacturer could supply both types hence time wasted...well, I guess I learned something in the process

https://www.rtsauto.com/how-to-change-rear-wheel-bearing-on-an-e30/