Also, putting the manual back in is way easier than pulling the auto. You can almost hug the transmission case from underneath it, and get your hands to those tough top bolt holes by the head and the starter.
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Do this while it's off...
Followed advice and pounded the splined studs out of the output flange, got rid of the harmonic balancer frame, popped them back in. Used a deep socket and a 2 lb hammer.
I number the bolts so I remember which are torqued.
Marked the bolts to show torqued twice.
Up she goes. I shot a spritz of bright paint so the bellhousing holes would show up in the dark easier. Worked pretty good.
Glad I didn't bother with the shift console before lifting it - there's plenty of room to attach later.
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So glad I have all these in the drawer. I taped up the wobble so it wouldn't flop around trying to get on the bolt head.
Argh, the wiring! So many conflicting guides. So glad my son figured this all out, by finding and disconnecting all the automatic harness points. But we had to hunt all over the place under there to find them all. That hanging loop you see on the lower left is where the automatic harness is told that circuit is always closed. You take that off, and the feed end clicks into the clutch pedal switch, in case you have cruise control.
Made a new reverse lights harness as I couldn't figure out where it was. Turns out it probably burned off the donor trans and nobody mentions it. I finally found it in a parts diagram for the aluminum bar shifter assembly, but no time to order one.
Just for a record of the information, this is the very early plate shifter assembly from below. The NLA mounting "bow" bracket with the rubber bushing at top of pic, the foam sound "sponge" above the plate, the selector rod in a new lower shifter with new bushings / shims / clips / o-rings, etc. You can just see the reverse switch wiring lower right, it clips onto the top of the shift plate (the sheathing was too fat, I zip-tied it). New Giubo, arrows towards the flanges!
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Rebuilt driveshaft by Driveshaft Specialist Inc in Texas. Super fast turnaround.
Loosen center collar to adjust spline length to fit at giubo and diff flanges. Center carrier slid forward 6mm from resting position, then torqued down. Then snug center collar back up.
This is the one non-e torx bolt we had to use. High strength metric cap screw. It had to be 90mm long to stick through the bellhousing.
Because....
Our odd duck (?) transmission has a very deep casting boss just below the crank position sensors and the normal 50mm bolt won't even reach to the flange. The part # is an early E30 manual, so I don't know why that is.
mmm, who doesn't like new hardware.
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Buck eighty five maple shift ball from a hobby/craft shop. A little Danish oil, a 9/16 wood bit, some tape to snug it onto the shaft, and Bob's your temporary uncle. Was it really worth it to order the fancy 917 laminated shift knob......
THREE pedals and a shifter, no way! This car waited 30 years to finally become a real sports car. "I am too a real boy!!"
The Jim Levie Memorial bleeding technique worked flawlessly!
195,000 mi on this puppy!
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This car was at the top of the pass in Glacier Park Friday, 6500'. Overall trip with a bike on the roof he got 28mpg. He's never gotten 28mpg.
I took it out on the freeway Saturday for a final shakedown and was really impressed with how fun it is to drive. The shifting is good, the torque is there - you can whip off a ramp and right into traffic without much effort, even with just 3000 rpm shifts. You can hum along at 75+ no problem. This thing used to work it's ass off to stay at 75.
Today it's halfway to Illinois and he says it's running really well. Still amazed we did this.
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