M62tu engine work

[The Dark Side of Will]

For the water cooled alternator ...99+ are like that.

Dam, you're quick.

[Jean]

Anybody else with experience, I can hear two different noises in the two videos. the one with the hood sounds normal... the other video is where I am hearing the loud more distinct sound. Is the frequency of it matching with how often the lifter opens/closes?

[moatilliatta]

Do you have a stethoscope?

[Jean]

Yeah I can get one... I'll be by the car tomorrow to replace the upper radiator hose and will then listen again.

[bmwmech1]

Jean, roughly how long has the motor been run, now that it's back together? It sounds like a sticky lifter. The higher frequency noises are the injectors, obviously, but the lower frequency sound has a metal-esque ring to it, like a lifter. It could take a while for it to come around, I've had them rap like that for 15-20 minutes before they started to quiet down and longer to completely disappear. Obviously, it's hard to discern on a video. The stethoscope will help to pinpoint the location a lot better. The other thing to try is getting it up in the air and listen from below too. If it's exhaust, it will be louder from underneath, a lifter and you won't hardly be able to hear it from down below. Plus you can feel around the exhaust joints for leaks, to eliminate that as a possibility. Also, if it seems to get quieter each subsequent cycle of starting and warmup, it is probably a lifter. Just hard to diagnose from a video...

Garey

[Jean]

Maybe 5 to 10(tops) minutes total time spread over the couple starts. Yeah the injector noise I am expecting, no problem with that, the lower freq. as you described is what I am worried about. Tomorrow I'll listen again and double-check the exhaust, I did have the car up on the lift and this noise seems to be louder from under the car, the same freq and loudness on both sides (passenger and drivers) and almost sounded like it's inside the manifolds/cats. I am thinking, maybe it's the lifters on the Exhaust side that I am hearing through the manifolds or something. I did listen around the manifolds but didn't see anything obvious, I've seen/heard exhaust leaks before but did not recognize anything like it here.

I'll take it for a drive tomorrow after replacing the upper radiator hose and hope for the better.

[mkcman17]

wow, 110lbs for the 6spd? no surprise why it took two of us to carry that awkward thing!

[bmwmech1]

wow, 110lbs for the 6spd? no surprise why it took two of us to carry that awkward thing!

Yeah, they're pigs... more like the size of a truck transmission. I have to pull my second one in 6 days tomorrow. Another clutch job, this one in an 06 650i... last week was an 01 540i... yay!

Garey

[Pinepig]

wow, 110lbs for the 6spd? no surprise why it took two of us to carry that awkward thing!

Pfft. Every time it needed moved I just told Jean to get out of the way.

Try and pick up a steel cased powerglide, that'll pop a nut out.

[Jean]

Yep! you did too :(

[bmwmech1]

Yep! you did too :(

Ouch!

Garey

[Jean]

Ouch!

Garey

He just bosses me around like a boss! I can only take so much! LOL

[Jean]

Alright got good news and bad news. Good news the lifter noise is gone. I've replaced the upper radiator hose, all good, no leaking.

Bad newis = check engine light is on due to fault (033) 21 function, camshaft control, inlet, bank 1.

Got it cleared with autologic, drove it and then it came back again along with (034) 22 function, camshaft, inlet, bank 2.

"This fault lamp (check engine) can also be requested by faults in the transmission control unit"

Did the VANOS TEST, shows vanos advancement time bank 1 and bank 2 at 4.4 S and vanos retardation time for bank 1 and bank 2 at 5.1 S.

Does this sound like my timing is correct, but the problem with the vanos transmission units?

I f-ing hate this thing, I swear, these are almost $500 a pop + having to pull the upper timing covers to replace them + re-time the engine.

[Jean]

Some googling on this error -

"Originally Posted by Tuppidsay View Post
P0010 - BMW FC 33 - "A" Camshaft Position Actuator Circuit (Bank 1)
P0011 - BMW FC 33 - "A" Camshaft Position Timing Over Advanced or System Performance (Bank 1)
P0012 - BMW FC 33 - "A" Camshaft Position Timing Over Retarded (Bank 1)


Would be good to use a generic scan tool and get the "P" code since code 33 points to 3 separate issues. Depending on what code you actually have, could be the solenoid valve, non return valve, camshaft sensor, or any number of mechanical fault "sticking" "leaking" in the vanos unit for Bank 1 (passenger side) "

[Jean]

I think the non return valve is the $20 valve in the head behind the vanos solenoid. I am going to order these first....

part 8/9 http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...51&hg=11&fg=15

not sure about cam sensors, I would think if they were bad there would be a specific code for the cam sensors.

Last resort would be two new vanos tranmissions units at about $450 a pop.

Thoughts?