Another M60 build....
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Yap, that's the return / drain from oil filter housing which is only used when the filter is being changed (or at least should be, depending on the condition of the one-way valve in the oil filter housing).
Can be blocked but it will make changing oil filter a bit more dirtier job, though you'll be using different type of oil filter & housing anyways?Leave a comment:
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So on the oil filter setup feed and return....Which port on the block is feed and which is return?
Also the line with the two banjo bolts that used to come from the oil filter and housing and go to the oil pan...Is that safe to just cap off at the pan? An Audi drain plug fits perfectly and I would think it was just an extra return but I am just making sure.Leave a comment:
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Thanks man - gl with the swap. Trying to see if this is feasible for me.Leave a comment:
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I am using a very similar setupQuestion for you guys. Is the set up you currently picked up for clutch and flywheel better than what BruceBe found:
Drivetrain configuration:
Engine: E34 M60 (circa 1995), Alusil
Trans: ZF 5-speed transmission (530i)
Flywheel: JB Racing E39 540i flywheel
Clutch: E36 328 Clutchmasters Organic Stage 1 kit
Slave cylinder: 530i
I may be a bit confused since I am just trying to wrap my head around the M60 swaps.
m60b40
530i 5 speed w/ factory slave
e39 540i uuc lightweight flywheel (similar to jb just abit extra but I was told the quality was better)
I went cheap on my clutch its a e36 328i stage 2 gripforce? I believe. We will see how long it lasts. The pressure plate is a rebuilt luk so I have high hopes.Leave a comment:
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Question for you guys. Is the set up you currently picked up for clutch and flywheel better than what BruceBe found:
Drivetrain configuration:
Engine: E34 M60 (circa 1995), Alusil
Trans: ZF 5-speed transmission (530i)
Flywheel: JB Racing E39 540i flywheel
Clutch: E36 328 Clutchmasters Organic Stage 1 kit
Slave cylinder: 530i
I may be a bit confused since I am just trying to wrap my head around the M60 swaps.Leave a comment:
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DO NOT share a resevoir for front and rear together. I've seen it done but in a worst case scenario if you lose a line in the front or rear circuit you can still rely on the other one to get you slowed down/ stopped. I mounted my resevoirs on a bracket I welded to the blower motor panel. I routed the lines through the large hole where the booster once was. As long as you have the reservoirs above the level of the master cylinders you're fine. I even though of fabricating a bracket for the drivers strut tower to mount them on.I had some time to make my brake lines and after staring at my car for a solid hour (part of every project it seems,) I found a nice spot to put my reservoirs without destroying anything.

The lines look scrambled in this picture but they come together nicely and will go through a hole in the plate i will be welding on and then sealing up.

And my reservoir mounting location. I would like to have only two but does anybody know if it safe to mount a y fitting in the lines and have it feed the front and rear masters?

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I had some time to make my brake lines and after staring at my car for a solid hour (part of every project it seems,) I found a nice spot to put my reservoirs without destroying anything.

The lines look scrambled in this picture but they come together nicely and will go through a hole in the plate i will be welding on and then sealing up.

And my reservoir mounting location. I would like to have only two but does anybody know if it safe to mount a y fitting in the lines and have it feed the front and rear masters?
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I was away this weekend so not too much progress but I did manage to make the driver's downpipe last night.

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I bought a kit and welded it myself. I will look up the sellers info for anybody interested.Leave a comment:
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Did you purchase the plans for the bracket hardware or bought it somewhere?Leave a comment:
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I made my right side header today and my pedal mount.




I am thinking of putting my reservoirs up here with the cap sticking through the dash. I am going to see if it looks clean or if I will have to make a dead panel on top of the caps. I am pretty tight on space for these and this seemed like a descent option.
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I ordered up my uuc flywheel yesterday, man did that one hurt. I found a driveshaft on car-part and it should be here by the weekend. I'll be tackling the brake lines this weekend, and should be building my headers by next week. I just need either another e34 steering knuckle and shaft or just order the flaming river stuff. Then I think other then little stuff I'm pretty set with parts. I knew this wasn't going to be cheap but I think I am around 5k as of right now. I will break down everything at the end so everybody has a rough cost idea that is considering this swap.Leave a comment:
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If it's anything like the m50 ASC TB, you can remove the throttle plate, and you should even be able to remove the post that it rotates on. That will clear out the restrictions in the air path.
Like Jonsku said, the non-ASC boot (13711747995) works great. The MTC brand is much cheaper then OEM, but harder to find as most stores are out of stock and have been for over a year. Ebay is your best bet currently.Leave a comment:
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No real harm, though the additional "gas-flap" will increase the air resistance a bit in the intake pipe. You can also buy the large rubber intake hose from M60 versions without ASC..
Just cut the old mount a bit, that way you retain the P/S pump additional mounting point ;)
X5 mount is another option.Leave a comment:

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