Another M60 build....

[MJCRO]

Nice! Yeah I assumed it needed a bit of modding, looks great so far!

[mark///m3]

Mark,
Definitely liking the booster-less system and look!! Looking to go this route with the swap and eliminating the ABS which I don't care for anyway!!! Get rid of all the extra crap in the engine bay and not have to worry about the extra linkages and such from the remote booster. Did you every get the list of parts and prices?? Thanks!!

Thanks! I never got a chance to put together a master list but feel free to ask me any questions.

Question, did that E34 5 speed bolt right up to E30's bay without any mod's?

All i had to do was adjust the mount bar but that was just sliding it to the right spot. The shift linkage was all custom, i started with e34 parts and then sized and welded them.

[MJCRO]

Question, did that E34 5 speed bolt right up to E30's bay without any mod's?

[artoo93]

Mark,
Definitely liking the booster-less system and look!! Looking to go this route with the swap and eliminating the ABS which I don't care for anyway!!! Get rid of all the extra crap in the engine bay and not have to worry about the extra linkages and such from the remote booster. Did you every get the list of parts and prices?? Thanks!!

[mark///m3]

This is very good news. It means my calculations were correct. Do you have the part numbers of all the parts you used?

What Wilwood pedal set? 340-11299?
What brand/model number master cylinders?

It looks to me like the very right most cylinder is smaller then the two left ones, what bore are the two on the left and one on the right?

I will have to dig up the part numbers. The two masters for the brakes are the same. The pic you are looking at was just a test fit.

[noid]

This is very good news. It means my calculations were correct. Do you have the part numbers of all the parts you used?

What Wilwood pedal set? 340-11299?
What brand/model number master cylinders?

It looks to me like the very right most cylinder is smaller then the two left ones, what bore are the two on the left and one on the right?

[mark///m3]

They were intense when I had hawk hps pads installed when I first took the car for a test drive. I quickly switched out to hp+ and thats what brought them back to the stock feel. I will no longer be exploring the idea of installing the booster.

[noid]

I used 5/8" cylinders for the brakes. The pedal feels slightly harder then factory. I just installed hawk hp+ front pads and they made a huge difference in stopping power. They dust like crazy though.

The mount kit was from Titus. He is a great guy to deal with and was very helpful. I received all the pieces and welded them up myself. It cost a little over $100 and was well worth it in my opinion.

There is very little give in the bracket and the pedals stay nice and rigid. I heaved on this thing when first installed to make sure my lines had no leaks and also to make sure in an emergency braking situation it wasn't going to fail.

Slightly more then factory? I though you said they were intense? Whats the point in installing a booster over the winter then?

[mark///m3]

Heres what we did for the oil filter. We milled the oil housing down, then welded bungs onto the factory metal oil lines. Pictures:

more details on that here:
http://garagistic.com/index.php?page...6x-into-an-e30

I did something very similar....

Garey welded some 10an male bungs to the x5 oil line block. He milled it down first. He did a beautiful job. I then added the proper fittings and an aftermarket remote mount spin on filter stand. I made a bracket and it faces in towards the engine right behind the alternator. I will get some pictures next time I am under the car. I used a Mann filter p/n w940/25 for a VW/Audi turbo car. It is massive, cheap and seems to do the job just fine. I need to tap one of the plugs in the filter stand for the factory oil pressure switch.

[mark///m3]

Bruce, the guy who makes/sells the mounts is a guy named Titus:

https://sites.google.com/site/bmwfabricators/e30-pedal-mount

I am interested in hearing what bore master cylinders you used mark?

6.25:1 ratio pedals, and .625″ bore master cylinders (the larger the bore the more effort you will have to input), it is possible to be under 60 pounds of leg input force in an e30. Should be soft enough to daily.

I used 5/8" cylinders for the brakes. The pedal feels slightly harder then factory. I just installed hawk hp+ front pads and they made a huge difference in stopping power. They dust like crazy though.

The mount kit was from Titus. He is a great guy to deal with and was very helpful. I received all the pieces and welded them up myself. It cost a little over $100 and was well worth it in my opinion.

There is very little give in the bracket and the pedals stay nice and rigid. I heaved on this thing when first installed to make sure my lines had no leaks and also to make sure in an emergency braking situation it wasn't going to fail.

[garagistic]

Heres what we did for the oil filter. We milled the oil housing down, then welded bungs onto the factory metal oil lines. Pictures:












More details on that here:

http://garagistic.com/index.php?page=how-to-swap-an-m6x-into-an-e30

[noid]

My concern is rigidity. So, how much pedal travel do you get as a result of mechanical compliance and flex of the pedal structure itself, before the brakes start to function? Also, when you go from a 3/10 effort stop to an 8/10 effort stop, do the brakes modulate nicely with increased pressure, or does it feel like the pedal travel is disproportionate to the increased brake force (e.g. non-linear)?

-Bruce

Bruce, the guy who makes/sells the mounts is a guy named Titus:

https://sites.google.com/site/bmwfabricators/e30-pedal-mount

I am interested in hearing what bore master cylinders you used mark?

6.25:1 ratio pedals, and .625″ bore master cylinders (the larger the bore the more effort you will have to input), it is possible to be under 60 pounds of leg input force in an e30. Should be soft enough to daily.

[BruceBe]

Bruce what do you think the problems will be? The car stops and the manual brakes are intense to say the least.... I might be putting in the booster over the winter because of the increased pedal effort.

My concern is rigidity. So, how much pedal travel do you get as a result of mechanical compliance and flex of the pedal structure itself, before the brakes start to function? Also, when you go from a 3/10 effort stop to an 8/10 effort stop, do the brakes modulate nicely with increased pressure, or does it feel like the pedal travel is disproportionate to the increased brake force (e.g. non-linear)?

-Bruce

[iamsam]

videos?

[mark///m3]

Go right ahead!