Another M60 build....

[BruceBe]

For the reservoir, consider a 1989 and newer E30 reservoir - it bolts in the LF fender-well area, where you have lots of room with the manual brake setup.

I am very interested to hear about the rigidity of that stock-ish pedal box you have. I *really* want it to work for you, but I have some concerns about the overall strength/stiffness of the installed assembly. It will be very cool if it works. Please let us all know.

Best,
-Bruce

[mark///m3]

For the reservoir, consider a 1989 and newer E30 reservoir - it bolts in the LF fender-well area, where you have lots of room with the manual brake setup.

I am very interested to hear about the rigidity of that stock-ish pedal box you have. I *really* want it to work for you, but I have some concerns about the overall strength/stiffness of the installed assembly. It will be very cool if it works. Please let us all know.

Best,
-Bruce

Bruce what do you think the problems will be? The car stops and the manual brakes are intense to say the least.... I might be putting in the booster over the winter because of the increased pedal effort.


On another note I had a successful test drive late last night! I hung my exhaust too low so it rubs on every little bump, but my car is also very low so this is going to be a tough fix. I am going to raise it up about an inch and see how that goes (the height it was in my pic below). I have to pick up an e30 temp sender because I have no gauge but other then that everything seems to be a ok.

I will post some pictures from the car show I am going to today later on

[Jonsku]

I am still trying to figure out a solution to my reservoir and heater core lines. I am toying with the idea of a sealed system and put a fill in the upper radiator hose. I am not a huge fan of the idea though. The lower hose in the picture has a little flat spot but still has almost all its flow. The picture is deceiving...

You need to TIG it in order to make it work properly..

[mark///m3]

I ended up using a Mercedes reservoir from an old s class. The car runs great, I have some small things to work out still but its driveable so that's a great feeling.

Here are some pictures.











I wasn't happy with the height my exhaust was done at so I had some nicer bends made and welded in. It sounds a lot betternow too!

[Vtec?lol]

I'm going to start hunting my parts now!!!!
Good job. Would you mind if I PM you a few questions?

[mark///m3]

Go right ahead!

[iamsam]

videos?

[BruceBe]

Bruce what do you think the problems will be? The car stops and the manual brakes are intense to say the least.... I might be putting in the booster over the winter because of the increased pedal effort.

My concern is rigidity. So, how much pedal travel do you get as a result of mechanical compliance and flex of the pedal structure itself, before the brakes start to function? Also, when you go from a 3/10 effort stop to an 8/10 effort stop, do the brakes modulate nicely with increased pressure, or does it feel like the pedal travel is disproportionate to the increased brake force (e.g. non-linear)?

-Bruce

[noid]

My concern is rigidity. So, how much pedal travel do you get as a result of mechanical compliance and flex of the pedal structure itself, before the brakes start to function? Also, when you go from a 3/10 effort stop to an 8/10 effort stop, do the brakes modulate nicely with increased pressure, or does it feel like the pedal travel is disproportionate to the increased brake force (e.g. non-linear)?

-Bruce

Bruce, the guy who makes/sells the mounts is a guy named Titus:

https://sites.google.com/site/bmwfabricators/e30-pedal-mount

I am interested in hearing what bore master cylinders you used mark?

6.25:1 ratio pedals, and .625″ bore master cylinders (the larger the bore the more effort you will have to input), it is possible to be under 60 pounds of leg input force in an e30. Should be soft enough to daily.

[garagistic]

Heres what we did for the oil filter. We milled the oil housing down, then welded bungs onto the factory metal oil lines. Pictures:












More details on that here:

http://garagistic.com/index.php?page=how-to-swap-an-m6x-into-an-e30

[mark///m3]

Bruce, the guy who makes/sells the mounts is a guy named Titus:

https://sites.google.com/site/bmwfabricators/e30-pedal-mount

I am interested in hearing what bore master cylinders you used mark?

6.25:1 ratio pedals, and .625″ bore master cylinders (the larger the bore the more effort you will have to input), it is possible to be under 60 pounds of leg input force in an e30. Should be soft enough to daily.

I used 5/8" cylinders for the brakes. The pedal feels slightly harder then factory. I just installed hawk hp+ front pads and they made a huge difference in stopping power. They dust like crazy though.

The mount kit was from Titus. He is a great guy to deal with and was very helpful. I received all the pieces and welded them up myself. It cost a little over $100 and was well worth it in my opinion.

There is very little give in the bracket and the pedals stay nice and rigid. I heaved on this thing when first installed to make sure my lines had no leaks and also to make sure in an emergency braking situation it wasn't going to fail.

[mark///m3]

Heres what we did for the oil filter. We milled the oil housing down, then welded bungs onto the factory metal oil lines. Pictures:

more details on that here:
http://garagistic.com/index.php?page...6x-into-an-e30

I did something very similar....

Garey welded some 10an male bungs to the x5 oil line block. He milled it down first. He did a beautiful job. I then added the proper fittings and an aftermarket remote mount spin on filter stand. I made a bracket and it faces in towards the engine right behind the alternator. I will get some pictures next time I am under the car. I used a Mann filter p/n w940/25 for a VW/Audi turbo car. It is massive, cheap and seems to do the job just fine. I need to tap one of the plugs in the filter stand for the factory oil pressure switch.

[noid]

I used 5/8" cylinders for the brakes. The pedal feels slightly harder then factory. I just installed hawk hp+ front pads and they made a huge difference in stopping power. They dust like crazy though.

The mount kit was from Titus. He is a great guy to deal with and was very helpful. I received all the pieces and welded them up myself. It cost a little over $100 and was well worth it in my opinion.

There is very little give in the bracket and the pedals stay nice and rigid. I heaved on this thing when first installed to make sure my lines had no leaks and also to make sure in an emergency braking situation it wasn't going to fail.

Slightly more then factory? I though you said they were intense? Whats the point in installing a booster over the winter then?

[mark///m3]

They were intense when I had hawk hps pads installed when I first took the car for a test drive. I quickly switched out to hp+ and thats what brought them back to the stock feel. I will no longer be exploring the idea of installing the booster.

[noid]

This is very good news. It means my calculations were correct. Do you have the part numbers of all the parts you used?

What Wilwood pedal set? 340-11299?
What brand/model number master cylinders?

It looks to me like the very right most cylinder is smaller then the two left ones, what bore are the two on the left and one on the right?