MMP M62B44 Build Project "Jack-N-Coke"

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  • dirty30
    replied
    You should not have to supply a switched 12v for the 02 sensor heater. That relay should be getting a constant 12v from a large red wire and a switched 12v from a smaller red wire with a white tracer. The main relay supplies the fuel pump and 02 sensor their switched 12v.

    Leave a comment:


  • MonkeyMadness
    replied
    Originally posted by alco
    What is the pin 6 issue?



    I'm not going to pull the hole harness apart for one wire so I'm just going to find a (key) hot 12v that's already on the harness on the motor side... ugh
    I so feel like I'm drowning when it comes to this crap it's my automotive weakness...

    Leave a comment:


  • alco
    replied
    What is the pin 6 issue?

    Leave a comment:


  • MonkeyMadness
    replied
    Originally posted by filthiest e30
    Great progress, the engine bay looks great! Regarding the harness I saw that you commented on Andrew325is plug and play harness thread, did you end up buying one from him?
    Thank you.
    No i did not. I haven't found what i was looking for by way of the harness. So I'm working on my own. I built one that fits my need was really ,excited till i read another thread here in the v8 section mentioning pin #6 the hot wire for the o2's a wire i forgot. I got frustrated and have not revisited the harness sense. I've been procrastinating the repair cause it was a lot of work to screw up, and as i have said i'm not an elc guy...ugh
    But my radio works so thats a good sign...:D

    Leave a comment:


  • filthiest e30
    replied
    Great progress, the engine bay looks great! Regarding the harness I saw that you commented on Andrew325is plug and play harness thread, did you end up buying one from him?

    Leave a comment:


  • MonkeyMadness
    replied
    Well fixed the cam sensor issue. Resealed the motor and now ready to button up the build.
    Its now more about the little things.
    One thing i am holding off on is the harness.
    Still have a few bugs to work out with it.

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  • naika
    replied
    Nice project. I'll keep checking over here, i'm always looking for ideas to improve my set up ;)
    Where are you planning on locating the oil filtre housing? I am installing an oil cooler on mine and therefore am considering replacing the oil filter housing since i need to make ful custom oil lines.
    Thanks

    Leave a comment:


  • MonkeyMadness
    replied
    Soo the dash is is all back together finally..
    Just waiting on my damn euro clock from "Fusion"
    I think i got screwed, the guy has fallen off the map. Looks like I'm out $60...
    So if you got a euro clock for sale. Let me know....

    Now some pic's

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  • JGood
    replied
    Originally posted by MonkeyMadness
    True that. I do agree for the most part...
    I chose it for a few reasons.
    1. I already had the coding plug
    2. Size, this was a large part of it
    3. Corny as it may sound, it keeps the money in the community (e30) helps out a local e30 parts supplier.

    Plus I'm a cheap bastard. If i can build it i would rather than buy it every time. But if i can't then i have no problem spending the extra money on a good product. :)

    Very valid reasons, and I agree 8-)

    Leave a comment:


  • 36brua
    replied
    Thanks MM / JGood.^^^^^
    I've looked at tach signal unit on Summit.
    I didn't get the connection

    Leave a comment:


  • MonkeyMadness
    replied
    Originally posted by JGood
    The Dakota Digital SGI-8. It's a fully programmable unit, packaged in a nice little box, works to translate any # of cylinders. It's only $80, I don't understand why more people don't use it, vs paying $20 more for a non-packaged board that requires a specific coding plug. I guess size is one thing the board has going for it...
    True that. I do agree for the most part...
    I chose it for a few reasons.
    1. I already had the coding plug
    2. Size, this was a large part of it
    3. Corny as it may sound, it keeps the money in the community (e30) helps out a local e30 parts supplier.

    Plus I'm a cheap bastard. If i can build it i would rather than buy it every time. But if i can't then i have no problem spending the extra money on a good product. :)

    Leave a comment:


  • JGood
    replied
    Originally posted by 36brua
    Need what from Dakota Electronic ?
    Thanks
    The Dakota Digital SGI-8. It's a fully programmable unit, packaged in a nice little box, works to translate any # of cylinders. It's only $80, I don't understand why more people don't use it, vs paying $20 more for a non-packaged board that requires a specific coding plug. I guess size is one thing the board has going for it...

    Leave a comment:


  • 36brua
    replied
    Originally posted by MonkeyMadness
    So, finally had time and the needed info to get back to project Jack-N-Coke

    So today i installed the Garagetastic tach mod for the V8 swap.
    Decided to mount this on the "blue c1" plug off the back of the cluster. Keeping in the cab, away from harm.
    So if your interested in doing the same I'll post up the info below.

    Blue C1 connecter
    Soild brown = Negative/Ground
    Grn/yellow = 12v/Positive
    Pin #7 solid black splice this in dme to tach
    Yellow to tach , white to dme.

    Remember Garagetastic's mod requires a 4cyl tach plug. This mod will not work with the 6cyl plug
    You'll need a Dakota Elc. Setup for the 6cyl.

    [ATTACH]77077[/ATTACH]
    [ATTACH]77078[/ATTACH]
    [ATTACH]77079[/ATTACH]
    [ATTACH]77080[/ATTACH]
    After shrink rapping it and zip tie-ing it it the wire harness it is now protected and hidden
    :beer:
    Need what from Dakota Electronic ?
    Thanks

    Leave a comment:


  • MonkeyMadness
    replied
    So, finally had time and the needed info to get back to project Jack-N-Coke

    So today i installed the Garagetastic tach mod for the V8 swap.
    Decided to mount this on the "blue c1" plug off the back of the cluster. Keeping in the cab, away from harm.
    So if your interested in doing the same I'll post up the info below.

    Blue C1 connecter
    Soild brown = Negative/Ground
    Grn/yellow = 12v/Positive
    Pin #7 solid black splice this in dme to tach
    Yellow to tach , white to dme.

    Remember Garagetastic's mod requires a 4cyl tach plug. This mod will not work with the 6cyl plug
    You'll need a Dakota Elc. Setup for the 6cyl.

    Click image for larger version

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    After shrink rapping it and zip tie-ing it it the wire harness it is now protected and hidden
    :beer:

    Leave a comment:


  • MonkeyMadness
    replied
    Originally posted by alco
    What would it cost me to have my water crossover pipe modified? I'm in Fairport, NY (14450.) Thanks!
    Pm'd

    Leave a comment:

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