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College kid M60 E30 (ongoing build)

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    #91
    Originally posted by noid View Post
    I am excited to see what you will do for the absentee pins on the wiring harness (pins 8,9, 14, 15) since the 87 and prior do not have those pins.

    http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=291234
    It should be fine with pin 15 ignored. I'm also deleting cruise control to free up some space under the dashboard and make wiring it a lot easier.
    Last edited by MJCRO; 06-21-2013, 12:09 AM.

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      #92
      I am likely going to ignore pin 15 also, I have my wiring harness nearly done.

      Edit: only pin 20 and 24 (x20) are to be spliced into c104. Pin 14 (x20) is to be spliced into green plug on the back of the cluster or brown/red wire off the yellow connector.
      Last edited by noid; 06-18-2013, 10:32 AM.
      Your resource to do-it-yourself and interesting bmw and e30 stuff: www.rtsauto.com

      Your resource to tools and tips: www.rtstools.com

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        #93
        Wow, this swap is looking great Marco!!! Keep us updated. Subscribed!
        Recent Rebranding!!
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          #94
          Originally posted by FrankM E30 View Post
          Wow, this swap is looking great Marco!!! Keep us updated. Subscribed!
          Thanks Frank! It's gettin' there.

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            #95
            Originally posted by noid View Post
            i am likely going to ignore pin 15 also, i have my wiring harness nearly done.

            Edit: Only pin 20 and 24 (x20) are to be spliced into c104. Pin 14 (x20) is to be spliced into green plug on the back of the cluster or brown/red wire off the yellow connector.
            The color arrangement and pins on the M60B30 X20 are different, but yeah I have the right ones to be spliced into the C104 and green connector that goes to the tach.

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              #96
              Update: June 21th

              Re-did the brake lines from the ABS unit straight to the pedals. No leaks now. B)

              The location of the reservoirs is also temporary BTW.







              Last edited by MJCRO; 06-22-2013, 07:54 PM.

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                #97
                Update: June 22nd

                Installed my custom steering shaft and u-joint assembly. I used two Vorshlag 17mm-54-spline 3/4 u-joint's and a steel shaft from Jegs. Overall cost me around $250, but this setup is as low-profile as you can get without dumping money on an E36 M3 steering rack AND then making a custom shaft on top of that.

                Also did a test bleed on the brakes to see how the pedals feel. Now I just need to relocate the reservoirs to their long term spot in the engine bay.



                Last edited by MJCRO; 06-23-2013, 07:54 PM.

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                  #98
                  Are those set screws? How do you feel about that?
                  Originally posted by Matt-B
                  hey does anyone know anyone who gets upset and makes electronics?

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                    #99
                    Originally posted by george graves View Post
                    Are those set screws?
                    Yup.

                    *It's bolt-on and super low-profile. I need it to be that way so my exhaust setup I got from FrankM can fit without any contact issues.
                    Last edited by MJCRO; 06-23-2013, 11:27 PM.

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                      Nice job!

                      Don't take this the wrong way, but an e36 rack can be purchased for less than what you spent on the joint? I mean, e30 rack is one of the worst components on the car if you really like to drive the car... this part really lets itself known when you go through fast transitions and the rack is too slow to react to your input. Only put that out there as an example, as maybe yours is a going to be a daily driver...

                      250 on the joint to save $ on going with e36/z3 rack, just doesn't make sense to me.
                      Mtech1 v8 build thread - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=413205



                      OEM v8 manual chip or dme - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho....php?p=4938827

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                        Originally posted by Jean View Post
                        Nice job!

                        Don't take this the wrong way, but an e36 rack can be purchased for less than what you spent on the joint? I mean, e30 rack is one of the worst components on the car if you really like to drive the car... this part really lets itself known when you go through fast transitions and the rack is too slow to react to your input. Only put that out there as an example, as maybe yours is a going to be a daily driver...

                        250 on the joint to save $ on going with e36/z3 rack, just doesn't make sense to me.
                        I really didn't see the point in upgrading the rack since I'm not planning on tracking or even driving the car hard. Even if I purchased a new rack, I still would've had to make some custom shaft like other people here on r3v have.

                        The exhaust setup I got from a member on here actually had issues with his own custom E34 steering shaft and exhaust manifold touching so I wanted to avoid that by getting something that was bolt on and even thinner.

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                          I have to assume you haven't driven a car with a e36 rack? It's a world of difference! It's like a school buss to a go-kart.

                          love the swap BTW - thanks for all the pics - keep 'em coming.
                          Originally posted by Matt-B
                          hey does anyone know anyone who gets upset and makes electronics?

                          Comment


                            Originally posted by george graves View Post
                            I have to assume you haven't driven a car with a e36 rack? It's a world of difference! It's like a school buss to a go-kart.

                            love the swap BTW - thanks for all the pics - keep 'em coming.
                            Haha I bet. Handling isn't a big concern for me at the moment. I just wanna get this thing driving reliably before school starts lol.

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                              Update: June 23rd

                              Mounted my brake fluid reservoirs in their long term spot. The lines can just hang for now until I can check my clearances.

                              Also, I ordered a bunch of things for the motor tonight. I should be able to start up the engine this upcoming week if everything works out.



                              Last edited by MJCRO; 06-23-2013, 07:57 PM.

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                                Originally posted by george graves View Post
                                Are those set screws? How do you feel about that?
                                What you are supposed to do is get the DD shaft where you want it, mark the locations of the holes for the set screws then drill into the DD shaft 1-2mm or so then reassemble. The set screws are only there to keep the shaft in place not necessarily to keep it tight. There is a jam nut to make sure the set screw stays put also. The flaming river stuff is about as nice as you can get. The fit is beyond precise and the price reflects it.

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