*Updated & only kinda shitty now!* The definitive 5.0/302 swap guide

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  • jalopi
    replied
    I'm doing 330i brakes - won't be an issue, in fact you'll want them after doing the manual swap. Not sure what master to use yet (based off of pedal travel) so I'll post when I find out for myself.

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  • AWDBOB
    replied
    Question:

    Currently planning the suspension/braking system of the car, and was wondering if any of you are running 5 lug brakes (whether they be M3, 330i, etc). Will this be an issue when running manual brakes? What size master cylinder would be ideal?

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  • e30_302
    replied
    I got a Ford aluminum driveshaft from cop car off eBay for $100, had it shortened for $60. Super light. eBay yoke for cheap, two u-joints, plus the flange from jagsthatrun. Probably $300 total.

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  • eurotrash
    replied
    Cars curently living life somewhere in oregon but we decided to celebrate the 4th last year proper.

    Store your photos and videos online with secure storage from Photobucket. Available on iOS, Android and desktop. Securely backup your memories and sign up today!

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  • grant_jr
    replied
    Not bad, thanks.

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  • jalopi
    replied
    Get a driveshaft made from scratch. Including parts I had to buy online it was about $400 total for a custom shaft. I bought a ford racing (or whatever you want) t5 yoke and a diff flange from here:

    Why You Might Need One. When doing a V8 swap into a BMW, the BMW U-joint is non-serviceable and requires special machining to replace. Stealth Conversion’s heavy-duty BMW driveshaft conversion flange has the same bolt pattern and pilot dimensions as the stock BMW driveshaft flange, but it uses the road-tested Dana 1310

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  • grant_jr
    replied
    Cool that's a lot of gold, especially with the trans tunnel hole. Clutches are whatever pretty straight forward. What about drive shaft set up. I've read to save our e30 shaft and grab the yoke for the t5 but I've read we can use the mustang shaft with a diff flange for our med case. Just want a better understanding. Build thread soon. :)

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  • e30_302
    replied
    I'm using the bell housing from a Fox body. Pedal effort is light, Honda level seems about right. Definitely lighter than my Jetta. Not sure what clutch/pressure plate I have to be honest, I got them with the trans.

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  • jalopi
    replied
    Originally posted by e30_302
    Mine works perfectly with this kit.
    holy fuck, seriously? goddamnit.... oh well, live and learn I guess, would've loved to keep my stock pedal :/

    is your pedal stiff though? I've got a ACT clutch kit rated to 450ish or something wheel torque and my clutch pedal effort is stock honda level.


    As far as bellhousings go you've gotta get the correct one for your transmission. If you can source a t5 from a 94-95 mustang the shifter will line up in the existing hole better. However, the input shaft is about 1" longer than the t5's out of the fox mustangs, so you've gotta get a bellhousing for a 94-95 while you're at it.

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  • grant_jr
    replied
    Originally posted by e30_302
    Mine works perfectly with this kit.
    What bell housing are you running with your t5?

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  • e30_302
    replied
    Originally posted by jalopi
    apparently the e30 stock master won't push enough fluid to move the slaves that work with the T5
    Mine works perfectly with this kit.

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  • Stvstr
    replied
    I think this is detailed in my build thread as well, but I used a Dorman H38117 slave that is for an 80's Nissan pickup. It looks almost exactly like the Nissan 280ZX slave others have used but the inlet and bleeder are easier to access. Because of the tight trans tunnel I mounted it tight to the T5 and drilled a new hole in the clutch fork closer in to the T5. I am using the e30 master and it works great so far.

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  • jalopi
    replied
    apparently the e30 stock master won't push enough fluid to move the slaves that work with the T5

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  • e30_302
    replied
    Originally posted by danval
    If you guys are running manual brakes (no booster) have you thought of changing thhe leverage point on the pedal? My friend is doing it and personally, i havnt seen how easy it is but it sounds like a good idea. Also, i asked in the general tech section, but apparently everyone ignored me. I couldnt find a DIY section dedicated to the front mounted booster/mc. Anybody has some info or links on that? Im close to start my 5.0 swap and im trying to get all the knowledge i can. So far, this thread has tons of info. Pretty cool by the way.also, why doesnt the stock e30 clutch doesnt work with the T5 slave? Thanks in advance
    Yes you need to change the pivot point on the pedal for increased leverage. The Massive booster delete kit spells it out and has the necessary hardware. The T5 is cable operated, need to convert to add a hydro slave if you want to stay hydraulic. Not hard, there's a kit for that too.

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  • AWDBOB
    replied
    Originally posted by eurotrash
    #1 rule for this swap. Dont buy a house. Your wife will need a new laundry room and master bath and youll nvr have cash for your car

    Feel free to crowd fund me an explorer 5.0 and a world class t5
    You had me at 'wife'. Mo money mo problems.

    I just bought 4 parts cars that are all paying for my build.

    ftw

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