*Updated & only kinda shitty now!* The definitive 5.0/302 swap guide

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  • jalopi
    replied
    Some good info, yeah... unfortunately I've been pretty lazy about updating the front page for a while now.

    IMO here's some majorly important things:

    1. Budget for a Tilton TOB. It's more expensive than the other TOBs out there, but from what I've read the Tilton unit is the only one that uses cupped seals - the Mcleod and RAM joints apparently use o-rings. I've heard of a lot of people having problems with o-rings going bad.

    2. Budget for a TKO (or a set of g-force gears and case). Your trans will most likely go up soon, they just do (as long as you're not gentle with the car anyway... but then why would you be building a v8 e30 lol)

    3. Don't cut the heater core pipes, you most likely won't have to

    4. Stock rad won't cut it, get a mishimoto e36 joint.

    I'll come up with some extra shit later

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  • QUKBMER
    replied
    Sup !!! New here to doing swaps,Always been true to the m20. I have a 87 325is rolling shell and just bought a complete running 89 mustang gt 5.0 5speed donor car. Here we go !!!! Looks like alot of good info on here.
    Last edited by QUKBMER; 04-29-2014, 07:56 AM.

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  • jalopi
    replied
    Yeah, FI is something I'm not gonna touch until I get a truck capable of towing my car to events with. I figure either the block will crack, I'll throw a rod or the trans will grenade if I add any extra power than what I currently have (eventually anyway).

    Then comes the aftermarket block, not sure what trans option I want to go with though. Buying all the G-force parts to get it up to their "we're not gonna name a number but if we did it would be..." 500ft/lb capacity is about $2k. That's also about the price of a TKO 5/600, though I'd need to spend another $500 or so on the bellhousing and a new driveshaft yoke. The one thing I really like about the G-force is your gear ratio options.. one of their gearsets would increase my top speed in second by about 15mph or so, which is very appealing vs the stock ratios the tko's offer.

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  • grant_jr
    replied
    Hey if you have the money go for it. That would be a radical e30 ready to kill at any corner. :| I have been reading up on stock block single blow through turbo builds and I'm not going to lie, I think I'm hooked.

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  • jalopi
    replied
    I'm thinking of doing a rebuild with a dart block or something... not enough power for me. Trying to spin 255's without having to clutch kick, ebrake in the dry.

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  • e30_302
    replied
    I like the block intact, thanks :)

    It's plenty of power for what I need it for.

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  • grant_jr
    replied
    Originally posted by e30_302
    Almost time to put back in
    This time put a big turbo on it. :twisted: lol

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  • e30_302
    replied
    Ford y303 heads, dual valve springs, crane 1.7 roller rockers, custom cam, Weiand stealth intake. All stock bottom end. Cam was made to maximize power between 2500-5500.
    Last edited by e30_302; 04-18-2014, 04:48 AM.

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  • jalopi
    replied
    Wow, that's a very blue... everything, lol. Did you get any goodies or is it still stock?

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  • e30_302
    replied
    Almost time to put back in

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  • 89 5.0
    replied

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  • manjambles
    replied
    Any info or links to wiring the 5.0 harness to the e30? I'm about to buy the guide to help me figure it out. HELP

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  • eurotrash
    replied
    Lol i got my current e30 w 20 mm spacers in the rear anyways

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  • jalopi
    replied
    People were discussing that hydroboost setup in the LS swap thread. Most people have been using linkages and mounting the booster in front of the strut tower, but someone found a pic of a dude that mounted his shit right on the firewall. Didn't pay attention to whether it had a clutch master though... that's the only way I could see it fitting that far over to the left (as in automatic trans).

    Also, don't know if you knew about this, but there's an easier way to swap to a 5lug setup:



    Got mine in a little while ago, they're quality pieces. It's about $220 shipped for the bearing adapter and caliper bracket adapter, which is a steal at that price.

    Also, not sure how much you're getting the 318ti trailing arms for, but 6 cylinder non-m z3 hubs will pop straight into our existing control arms. About $210 shipped for both hubs from here:

    http://www.thebmwpartstore.com/oempa...411095772.html

    Apparently the caliper bracket mounting points are the same for the e30, 36 and 46 in the rear so I'll be doing e46 rears; from what I hear though a 20ish mm spacer will have to be used between the mounting point and the bracket due to the offset of the z3 hub.

    ** big downside (or not downside, depending on what you want out of the car) is that the z3 hub will push your wheels out by about an inch on each side.

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  • AWDBOB
    replied
    Originally posted by jalopi
    I'm doing 330i brakes - won't be an issue, in fact you'll want them after doing the manual swap. Not sure what master to use yet (based off of pedal travel) so I'll post when I find out for myself.
    Cool, good to know.

    I'm grabbing the GC 5 Lug Coilovers, as I was going to get the race coils anyway so I might as well have them weld the brackets on.

    I'm going to use 97-98 M3 Control Arms, Offset CABs, spindles/hubs and calipers/rotors.

    Rear I'm going to grab the 318ti trailing arm setup, as it seems to be the most cost effective.


    Also, has anyone tried this out for a hydroboost setup?

    Hydratech Braking Systems Street Rod Universal High Performance Hydraulic Brake Assist System Listings

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