*Updated & only kinda shitty now!* The definitive 5.0/302 swap guide

[tokoloshe]

If you guys are running manual brakes (no booster) have you thought of changing thhe leverage point on the pedal? My friend is doing it and personally, i havnt seen how easy it is but it sounds like a good idea. Also, i asked in the general tech section, but apparently everyone ignored me. I couldnt find a DIY section dedicated to the front mounted booster/mc. Anybody has some info or links on that? Im close to start my 5.0 swap and im trying to get all the knowledge i can. So far, this thread has tons of info. Pretty cool by the way.also, why doesnt the stock e30 clutch doesnt work with the T5 slave? Thanks in advance

Stock E30 clutch master works great with the 240z slave

[e30_302]

getting a Scat 347 rotating assembly AFR 165 heads and a Trick flow stage 2 cam,

Those heads are too small, and for not much more money you could have a custom cam made. Just FYI.

[jalopi]

i've seen alot of stuff on sbftech and corral about guys with 347s making decent power with afr 175s though, maybe he'll be a little choked up but it'll probably be OK under 6k rpms.

so on a different note, did you get the new engine in yet?

[tokoloshe]

i've seen alot of stuff on sbftech and corral about guys with 347s making decent power with afr 175s though, maybe he'll be a little choked up but it'll probably be OK under 6k rpms.

so on a different note, did you get the new engine in yet?

:up:

Originally bought the 165 when I was going to keep it a 302 came into some more $$$$ and changed plans. Defiantly Keeping it under 6k building it for torque. If I get 350hp ill be happy, should have no problem getting that. My stang makes that with a ford racing letter cam and gt40X heads. Guys are running the same cam and heads any getting in the 400hp range with an RPM intake and 650-750 carb.

$hit canned my 2.5" Y pipe tonight for my new cobbled together 2.5" repurposed mustang off road X pipe. Makes a big difference in power and got rid of the raspy rice burner sound I was getting at high rpm's
Wish I could post pictures...

[e30_302]

i've seen alot of stuff on sbftech and corral about guys with 347s making decent power with afr 175s though, maybe he'll be a little choked up but it'll probably be OK under 6k rpms.

so on a different note, did you get the new engine in yet?

I've decided I'm going to get Fordstrokers to build me one.

[jalopi]

I've decided I'm going to get Fordstrokers to build me one.

Yep, that's the conclusion I've come to as well. Have you watched any of his videos on sbfbuilding? Jim seems to know his shit.

I realize they're expensive as hell, but aside from our stories (which I'm pretty sure were because we were rocking unbaffled front sumps cut down to 4qts) you rarely hear about ford guys having oil starvation issues [with one of those fancy canton road race pans anyway], which is why I refuse to spend big money on a LS.... don't feel like drysumping to eliminate a problem from the factory. Throw in an accusump and I'm pretty sure I'll be gold with my proposed setup

Thing is though, can't decide which block I wanna go with. Either a big bore 347 or the 'fuck your four cylinder' 363. Not sure which'd be better / last longer since I plan on using it at 6k rpms for extended periods of time. Or if the extra cubes'll really make a difference with the turbo or not

[e30_302]

So are you going aftermarket block? Ballin! I don't think more cubes is ever bad, even with a turbo.

The Accusump should help you a ton. Mine served me well until this last time, obviously. After draining the oil, and having plenty there, the only thing I can conclude is oil didn't drain back fast enough. I'm going to add two external drain lines from the heads, and further work on my pan as much as I can. I do not want to hurt this next engine! I wish a dry sump were cheaper and easier to do, that would solve so many problems.

[jalopi]

yeah, figure i can't get into the big boy power levels required in proam without a dart block. not to say i'm anywhere near that good a driver, but it'd be nice to have the equipment to serve me, if necessary.

what kind of accusump valve were you rocking? apparently the non-epc ones release kinda slow. also, don't know if you have/had this on your last setup, but i plan on grounding the accusump valve out through a dummy light in the dash. figure that way i'll know if it's on or not

interesting idea on the external oil drains. did a little bit of reading on that (to see a visual representation), saw a few of dudes mentioning putting a drain in the lifter valley too, though i think it was for a 351 block, not sure how'd that work on the 302

as far as stroke choice goes, i'm a bit concerned about the rod ratio/piston compression height of the 363. it's something like 1.55 rod ratio and a compression height of 1.1" or so. 3.25" stroke is 1.66 rod ratio and i think a 1.2" compression height. theoretically better for RPMs

[e30_302]

Manual valve, everything I read said the electric's were slow?

[tokoloshe]

I plan on adding the 1 quart back to my pan either in the front or on the passenger side of the pan, by welding in a box of sheet metal.

[jalopi]

their standard electrics are fairly inefficient, but their "epc" valves are (from what they claim anyway) pretty ideal since they open/close based off of oil pressure. the idea is that their sensor will see a drop in pressure and open the valve & get pressures up to a reasonable level before you even notice the drop

toko, as long as you're streeting the car you don't really need a kickout, though i guess it wouldn't hurt. mine only took a shit after thrashing it on track for probably (combined) an hour and a half drifting. i'm guessing an oil cooler might've helped keep that from happening

[e30_302]

The manual valve is open all the time, so it's constantly equalizing pressures. Before this last trip to the track, I never saw oil pressures waiver by more than 5 psi. I'm going to stick with it, except add a remote cable so I can operate it from inside the car.

[jalopi]

here's the difference between the manual valves and the electric ones - if you've got, for instance, a 25-30psi valve on the accusump, it'll hold at 30psi

the difference being that the manual valve unit will release oil pressure at a constant rate, not when the engine necessarily needs it. you can drop to 30 psi, but the epc one won't open. as soon as the pressure drops below 25psi, the epc accusump will slam the oil passages with 30psi (or whatever the highest figure was) of oil pressure, not a gradual trickle that'd result from leading up to a bearing failure. at least that's the way i've taken it anyway

[jalopi]

also, summit sells an oil pressure sensor that cuts the ignition ground when it goes below 10psi or something like that, can't remember exactly how it works right now. maybe look into that too? anything to keep the internals internal

[The Dark Side of Will]

I realize they're expensive as hell, but aside from our stories (which I'm pretty sure were because we were rocking unbaffled front sumps cut down to 4qts) you rarely hear about ford guys having oil starvation issues [with one of those fancy canton road race pans anyway], which is why I refuse to spend big money on a LS.... don't feel like drysumping to eliminate a problem from the factory.

You just said LS's and Fords have the same problem.
People with modified oil pans and reduced capacity have problems on both LS and SBF sides of the fence, people with fancy road race oil pans don't have problems on either side of the fence.

Not proposing you switch... just saying posts should make sense.