*Updated & only kinda shitty now!* The definitive 5.0/302 swap guide

[e30_302]

I don't, good to know. I'll look into it.

[jalopi]

i'll put it to you this way - you know how our crank pulleys are "offset"? like, it's got the face of the pulley, then about an inch and a half of smooth material and then the ribbed part of the pulley where the belt goes?

yeah, the 94-95 stangs and the exploder pulleys don't have that inch and a half of smooth material, shit just bolts straight onto the balancer

[e30_302]

Looks like the pulley and balancer are one unit? If that's the case I don't think it'll work since I'll be 28 oz imbalance on the new engine.

[eurotrash]

New baby and a house means im broke. Who wants to give me an explorer 5.0 and a wc t5 so i can get back in the game. Fuck i miss 302 power. This 2.7 shit is for the birds. Worst part is ive had mounts sitting for a year now. Damnit. Just venting carry on.

[jalopi]

I dunno - looks like you can buy just the pulley though, so I'd guess they're separate pieces. Might not bolt up though, but I'm sure a specialty shop like this:

http://www.innovatorswest.com/985-Crank-Pulley.html

could tell you

New baby and a house means im broke. Who wants to give me an explorer 5.0 and a wc t5 so i can get back in the game. Fuck i miss 302 power. This 2.7 shit is for the birds. Worst part is ive had mounts sitting for a year now. Damnit. Just venting carry on.

sorry guy :(

[sittingaaron]

Just thought I'd share this. Writing up a document of a bunch of information for this swap, will report when I have the project up and going. Seems nobody has found these pedals, but they save you quite a bit of change.

https://southwestspeed.com/index.php?sec=view_menu&cat=Hubs%20And%20Brakes&sub=Pedals&ssub=Brake%20and%20Clutch%20Pedal%20Comb!os&sssub=Reverse%20Swing%20Mount-Long

These are the same dimension (according to their photos on Amazon) as the wilwood/tilton pedal box kits. So if you purchase this along with the master cylinders and the pedal bracket from garagistic, you're looking at $475 for a sweeeeet pedal set up that basically bolts-in. You can also choose your master cylinders and they all ship at once! BOOM.

Really excited about this swap. Trying to sell my vert and get a coupe for this swap. Though a 5.0 vert would be cool, I just don't want to deal with the top and Missouri weather is terrible and unpredictable and blah blah blah.

[jalopi]

Yep, we've discussed the garagistic pedal box option here before, it's definitely the right way to go.

Alternatively, after doing some research it looks like us 5.0 guys can get away with using the stock pedals if you do a remote mount booster (a la e34 style) and a datsun slave cylinder (which will apparently work just fine with the stock e30 master). Or you could do the massive booster delete + a porsche 914 master, according to e30_302 it works like a dream

[sittingaaron]

Yep, we've discussed the garagistic pedal box option here before, it's definitely the right way to go.

Alternatively, after doing some research it looks like us 5.0 guys can get away with using the stock pedals if you do a remote mount booster (a la e34 style) and a datsun slave cylinder (which will apparently work just fine with the stock e30 master). Or you could do the massive booster delete + a porsche 914 master, according to e30_302 it works like a dream

I know the garagistic bracket isn't new, but the SWS pedal and Master Cylinders are WAY cheaper than the Wilwood and Tilton boxes. Quality seems fine and measures the same according to their data. Anyways. Just figured I'd give the people another option. For all those willing to sacrifice quality for price!

[jalopi]

Ooohhh, didn't realize what you were pointing out. Damn that shit is cheap

On a side note, 302 guys - imma ask that people start posting pics and shit of your swap and all the specific stuff. This thread seriously needs to be cleaned up, it's a real clusterfuck up in here. I'm gonna try to rewrite the first page to be actually useful instead of just bashing the e30v8 website, if anyone wants to put some specific info in let me know

[burlmays9]

On a side note, 302 guys - imma ask that people start posting pics and shit of your swap and all the specific stuff. This thread seriously needs to be cleaned up, it's a real clusterfuck up in here. I'm gonna try to rewrite the first page to be actually useful instead of just bashing the e30v8 website, if anyone wants to put some specific info in let me know

I'll be starting a 302/5.0 swap in the next couple months and I'd like to find a better breakdown for what motor configurations came in what models and year ranges of cars.

I'm going to try to keep a well explained build thread when I get started.

[e30_302]

Look on Ford forums, plenty of info out there.

[burlmays9]

Look on Ford forums, plenty of info out there.

I know there's info out there but this is the definitive 302/5.0 swap thread so having that info in here, or at least links to info, would really help people out that are completely unfamiliar with Ford stuff.

[burlmays9]

Budget option for a smaller steering shaft

http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=273427

[jalopi]

i knew i should've covered that on page 1 last night - just don't. that's another super ghetto mod.

what people don't seem to say about splicing two e46 steering shafts together is that each "section" of the shaft is ever so slightly tapered. what does this mean? when you go to put the two halfs together, the "support" piece you use in the middle has some play... alot of play. i believe mine had roughly a 1-2mm gap on each side of the tube.

Aside from that, the only way to remove this steering shaft is to take the rack down, which is very impractical. With the flaming river setup you can unbolt the actual shaft from the u-joints and move it out of the way, which makes running the shaft through a set of custom headers that much more practical

[burlmays9]

i knew i should've covered that on page 1 last night - just don't. that's another super ghetto mod.

what people don't seem to say about splicing two e46 steering shafts together is that each "section" of the shaft is ever so slightly tapered. what does this mean? when you go to put the two halfs together, the "support" piece you use in the middle has some play... alot of play. i believe mine had roughly a 1-2mm gap on each side of the tube.

Aside from that, the only way to remove this steering shaft is to take the rack down, which is very impractical. With the flaming river setup you can unbolt the actual shaft from the u-joints and move it out of the way, which makes running the shaft through a set of custom headers that much more practical

I don't think that gap would matter all that much post welding, the two shafts would be one piece once welded.

I can understand the issue of not being able to remove it without pulling the rack as well and making header work harder but considering the savings I think it would be worth it.

Shit I mean I'll probably go the aftermarket U-joint route so I don't have to dick around too much with making the cheap option work but for someone that has the equipment to fab parts out of cheap as shit OE parts then why not use them?