My Formula 1 inspired end plates need more reinforcement. I imagine they got turned a little to the side and got bent in, but I tell people aero forces sucked them in.
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dude i remember reading a thread about a dude who DIY'd a spoiler like yours. his end plates weren't nearly as magnificent, but he said something about them flexing inwards about a quarter inch or so at speed.
but i wouldn't tell people that. i'd say you designed it like that on purpose because it looks fukken sweetComment
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The end plates are just a sheet of diamond plate cut in half with some left over Air Tabs stuck on. The wing is a $50 ebay deal that I had the legs extended. Added a piece of aluminum angle for a gurney flap. I also have a real low angle spoiler made out of lexan to clean things up coming off the trunk lid. Just makin things up as I go over here...sigpicComment
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One of my winter projects was getting the power steering back on the 325is 5.0 swap car. I used an e36 PS pump and made brackets to mount it. Because I have seen a few people in threads have had trouble getting new high pressure hoses, and I live in a small town where no one will do custom hoses, I ended up mounting it just low enough on the driver side to use the stock e36 hose. With some careful bending of the metal tubing at either end it fits and no problems yet.
Unfortunately, now that I am driving it with the PS working again, I have realized that the steering feel was way better before when I just had the PS delete. I am thinking about removing it again because I loved the feeling of the unboosted rack.Comment
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all the power to you if you wanna go back to manual steering, but IMO fuck that shit. parking lots were muuuuuuuuuuuurrrrrrrrrdddddddddeeeeeeerrrrrrr in that car before i put the PS in.
also, with three banjo fittings, a few feet of AN hose and three fittings does the custom line trick quite well (granted, for about $80, but still)Comment
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so.... i think i figured out why my car had so many overheating issues on the track... and quite frankly i'm surprised it didn't have more overheating issues than it did
that, boys and girls, is a standard rotation timing cover... more specifically, it's the timing cover i was using on my engine (with a reverse rotation water pump). the lesson to be learned here is to double check everything, even if the person you bought your engine from (timing cover included) tells you that "it's all from a 91 mustang".
i know it's on me since i should've checked, but i didn't, and who knows? maybe it would've prevented my car from getting so damn hot, which would've maybe helped with my oil overheating/foaming and causing this:
at least i didn't have to pull the rod/main caps off to know for certain that i'd spun a bearingComment
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So I figured I may as well post and update since I really haven't used the forum at all. Don't really have time to read through all the posts but for cooling, I used a griffin dual row radiator from summit. P/N is GRI-1-26222-XS. It fits perfectly and you can still use the factory upper mount. Just have to fabricate lowers.
Also Jalopi, I went on Rosehill and ordered the slave cylinder conversion bracket with the CNC slave, but I'm afraid im not getting enough throw with the slave because I'm having to put an awful lot of preload on the TOB. Did you have this problem?Comment
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I'm not convinced the timing cover matters in regards to WP direction. Are you sure you had a reverse rotation pump?
Regarding the clutch slave: with about 1/4" preload my clutch releases/engages with the pedal about 1/3 of the way up off the floor. Make sure it's bled well, which is really tough to do.sigpicComment
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I had the same issue with the cnc slave, though I'm not entirely convinced my shit was 100% bled. Regardless, the Datsun slave should give you more throw (with more effort) than the CNc slave, it's what I plan on using in the ranger.
As far as the timing cover goes, it totally matters. I'm on an iPad now so I can't link a pic here, but basically each coolant passage on the standard rotation cover loses about half of its surface area when a reverse rotation pump is bolted to it. I imagine this causes a major restriction in the cooling system, especially at higher rpms. I'll take a pic of the back of my water pump when I go into the garage later, it's easy to see what was being blocked off since there's rust on the blocked off portionComment
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I have a hole cut in my trans tunnel and bled it for several minutes straight, only seeing fluid and I watched the piston on the slave and it comes all the way out the end of the case. I may still not have enough preload.Comment
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I had too much preload and I think it killed my TOB prematurely, because after a few months of driving it started making alot of noise (new TOB)
Also:
Here's a few comparison shots of my WP cover plate on the timing cover
You can see how they're clearly very different. Here you can see how coolant flow would be very turbulent coming through here instead of smooth like the engineers planned for
A shot from the back of the plate showing some rust spots where there was very little (if any) coolant flow where there should have been. Might also explain the puddles of coolant I always had ontop of my timing cover
Also, looks like my block is fucked :( Seems like my #1 main bearing stuck to the crank and became the new journal for a while. The main cap is discolored from heat and has been egged out slightly, same goes for the journal on the block :( Interestingly enough the crank journal is pretty much fine
There goes my plans to v8 swap the truck. Anyone want a set of edelbrock heads & comp camps rockers?Comment
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I asked some guys on a vintage mustang forum about my clutch issues and they said no one really ever doesn't have issues with hydraulic clutch conversions. Had a guy say that you can run lots of preload until everything wears in and then back it off so I think I'm gonna do that.Comment
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just some food for thought though:
*when they do hydraulic conversions, they use a full kit that utilizes their old cable quadrant, kind of. i don't think they're using the same master cylinder that we do, so i don't think their opinion of 'it works fine' really applies to us
*running a shitton of preload doesn't sound like the best idea IMO. when i tried that (instead of excessive bleeding) and finally got to the point where i could engage/disengage my clutch fine it would slip under load. just try not to waste a new clutch bro
*try setting up a remote bleeder like vorshlag/sikky does with their LS kits. i.e. pull the bleeder off of the slave, run a line up to the engine bay or somewhere, install a bleeder on that. might be something to look in toComment
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I appreciate yours and any knowledge in this subject.. I am currently looking for a carb'd 302 to put into my 1986 325e. I picked the car up a few months ago for $400 and I'm having a blast ripping this bitch apart for her new engine. Thanks again and let me know if I ask too many fucking questions.Comment
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So being on a fox body drift car Facebook page, I've come across something interesting that I thought you guys should know about if you do not already.
The fact that the e30 v8 oil pan has been reduced to 4 qts sort of scares me. I feel like if you were maintaining 5-6k rpms sideways with a good oil pump, oil starvation will be a serious problem. This is what Accusump is for. It is an oil accumulator that can hold up to 3qts of oil. you can plumb into your oil pressure sender hole that holds pressurized oil so when it senses a drop in oil pressure, it re pressurizes the system. It can also be used to pre oil your engine before startup. It's only about $300-$500 depending your setup and on how much braided line you're using and if you want to install an oil cooler and you will NEVER have oil starvation issues again. Here are some links to how it works and what not. I will be installing it on my car soon and I will tell you how it goes.
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