318is M60 swap

[///eMveee]

I'm fairly certain that the black plastic parts in your lower oil pan came from the cam gears.
Remove your valve covers & look at the timing gears themselves.
Especially the rear side of the gears.
The teeth on these gears are isolated from the center of the gear pulley by plastic.

The only other plastic parts in the front of the engine are the timing chain guides.
But those are either perfectly straight, or slightly curved (not as curved as what I see in your picture)

That's the best educated guess I can offer. :neutral:

Good luck with your build.

I'm also sourcing parts for my own '91 318is m60 conversion. :)

[JGood]

Yeah, that plastic is definitely a chunk of cam gear.

Nice work on the pan!

[LoneWolf]

I'm fairly certain that the black plastic parts in your lower oil pan came from the cam gears.
Remove your valve covers & look at the timing gears themselves.
Especially the rear side of the gears.
The teeth on these gears are isolated from the center of the gear pulley by plastic.

The only other plastic parts in the front of the engine are the timing chain guides.
But those are either perfectly straight, or slightly curved (not as curved as what I see in your picture)

That's the best educated guess I can offer. :neutral:

Good luck with your build.

I'm also sourcing parts for my own '91 318is m60 conversion. :)

Yeah, that plastic is definitely a chunk of cam gear.

Nice work on the pan!

Thanks guys.

Guess that's another piece I need to order. Put it on the list ha

[JGood]

I'd highly recommend doing the timing guides as well, as they are likely just as brittle. And you need to re-time your engine anyway, if you're replacing cam gears.

[///eMveee]

Love the notched oil pan you made.
This is the route I will be going also.
Lowers the center of gravity :-)

Howeve, I've wondered how lowering the engine like this affects driveline alignment...
Anyone have thoughts on this?


Better yet, anyone have driveline angle data using subframe spacers vs. oil pan notching???

[LoneWolf]

I'd highly recommend doing the timing guides as well, as they are likely just as brittle. And you need to re-time your engine anyway, if you're replacing cam gears.

You're right. I was going to ignore that, but should just do it while I'm there.

Love the notched oil pan you made.
This is the route I will be going also.
Lowers the center of gravity :-)

Howeve, I've wondered how lowering the engine like this affects driveline alignment...
Anyone have thoughts on this?


Better yet, anyone have driveline angle data using subframe spacers vs. oil pan notching???

Thanks.

Not sure if anyone has measured that yet. It's been debated about quite a bit though.

[The Dark Side of Will]

Better yet, anyone have driveline angle data using subframe spacers vs. oil pan notching???

Not sure if anyone has measured that yet. It's been debated about quite a bit though.

Funny you should mention that.

Ok, after some measurements this is what I got. Measuring with a 59.4mm tall level from the top of the frame rail pinch. NOTE: This is after i modified the pan on the M62. There is 1.125'' from bottom of pan to top of subframe. The camera angle is not in line with the reading, so within line of sight i got these measurements

M62: Im measuring 5.5''(13.7cm) from the top of the nut to top of the level

M20: Im measuring 6.375''(16.2cm) from the top of the nut to the top of the level.


So if we do the math, keeping in mind that the nut on the M62 is 28mm and the M20 nut is 22mm.

Center of M62 crank to top of frame rail is 9.16CM (13.7CM-59.4MM(level height)+14mm(center of crank)

Center of M20 crank to top of frame rail is 11.36CM (16.2CM-59.4MM(level height)+11MM (center of crank)

[LoneWolf]

So nothing exciting. I am doing this backwards here, decided I wanted to clean everything up. Degreasing and washing everything up. This should have been done first.



Attacked with simple green.

[euro2fast4u]

Glad i stopped in here! nice work, greatness takes time.

You going to be around tomorrow night? making a special trip home to put new hoses on the e30. If you will be send me a text i dont think i have your new number

[LoneWolf]

Glad i stopped in here! nice work, greatness takes time.

You going to be around tomorrow night? making a special trip home to put new hoses on the e30. If you will be send me a text i dont think i have your new number

Yeah man I should be around. Shooting you a text now.

[Old city bimmer]

Looks nice clean. Some paint work and it's good to go.

[LoneWolf]

Looks nice clean. Some paint work and it's good to go.

Planning on leaving paint for last. I want to get it all back together, do my suspension and 5 lug. Then paint.

[LoneWolf]

Any body have any tips on getting the crank bolt off of the M60?

Going to get a cheater bar to put on my breaker bar.

What did you guys use to lock the engine up so it didn't spin?

Thanks

[JGood]

Any body have any tips on getting the crank bolt off of the M60?

Going to get a cheater bar to put on my breaker bar.

What did you guys use to lock the engine up so it didn't spin?

Thanks

Mine took about 900 ft lbs to break loose. I had the engine on a stand, and attached to my hoist as well. Lifted the hoist enough to support the torque of the breaker bar so the stand wouldn't give out. Had the chain this whole assembly together as it started tipping under force.

I made a crank holder out of 1/4" steel, which I propped against the engine stand leg. Then used a breaker bar with a 6' cheater pipe. Had to throw my weight into that a few times to get it to break loose.

The whole thing was sketchy at best, and I'm surprised my breaker bar and socket held up.

[LoneWolf]

Thanks.

I have the same set up with the engine stand and hoist going right now. Now I have to make a lock bar like that.

Looks like the other end of your lock bar is notched instead of having a hold centered. Did the notch not work? If not I will have to dig out some hole saws