318is M60 swap

[LoneWolf]

So I removed my oil filter housing and was able to get the radiator in place.



So I have about 3/16" between the bolts on the power steering pump and the radiator. I don't think that is quite enough. The snout on the water pump has about an inch.

If I move the radiator up about half an inch though toward the hood the power steering pump bolts are then under the radiator. Anyone see any issues with this clearance wise? I explained to a friend with an e30 over the phone, while looking at his with his hood on it seems like there should be clearance. I am going to probably try and take a look too, maybe mock something out of foam and make sure nothing interferes when closing the hood.

[jalopi]

dafuq? did you make your own mounts or something? i could swear i remember other m60 swapped cars having much more room with z3m mishimoto radiators.

that's about the same amount of clearance i had with my z3m mishimoto rad with my 302 swap. try and figure something out, as draining/removing the rad any time you need to do something to the front of the engine gets very tiring, very quick

[LoneWolf]

dafuq? did you make your own mounts or something? i could swear i remember other m60 swapped cars having much more room with z3m mishimoto radiators.

that's about the same amount of clearance i had with my z3m mishimoto rad with my 302 swap. try and figure something out, as draining/removing the rad any time you need to do something to the front of the engine gets very tiring, very quick

Yeah I did make my own mounts. Other M60 cars I see pictures of do have more clearance there, but they are either vacuum boosted or manual brakes. This allows them to slide the engine back another inch or two.

With the hydroboost linkage on the firewall I can't move the engine back much more. Maybe 1/2" before it touches the housing of the linkage on the firewall.

I have pretty much accepted the fact most maintenance is going to require me tearing into the front clip or just taking parts off the car. The charm of big engine in little cars I guess

[JGood]

I'd ditch that rad and go with the thinner oem z3m radiator. I'm on my 3rd mishi z3m rad in 20k miles due to leaks, it's getting to the point where the free replacement isn't worth the hassle and cost of coolant. I'll be going oem z3m next.

[LoneWolf]

I'd ditch that rad and go with the thinner oem z3m radiator. I'm on my 3rd mishi z3m rad in 20k miles due to leaks, it's getting to the point where the free replacement isn't worth the hassle and cost of coolant. I'll be going oem z3m next.

Yeah I got a deal on this one, when it breaks I probably will go oem z3m too after your experience. But we will see.

[The Dark Side of Will]

With the hydroboost linkage on the firewall I can't move the engine back much more. Maybe 1/2" before it touches the housing of the linkage on the firewall.

Have you seen the swaps in which people have moved the brake linkage outboard by the width of the bolt pattern in the firewall?

[LoneWolf]

Have you seen the swaps in which people have moved the brake linkage outboard by the width of the bolt pattern in the firewall?

Hmmm I think I remember seeing that.... any links to a build showing this or know a member who has? Might be worth me doing. Not sure yet though

[JGood]

Hmmm I think I remember seeing that.... any links to a build showing this or know a member who has? Might be worth me doing. Not sure yet though

I did, Frank did as well. Moving the brake linkage to the other side of the brake pedal is easy, the hard part is spacing the clutch master cylinder over to allow room for the new brake linkage location, in a way that doesn't allow it to flex. But if you made your own engine mounts, you can do it. Just pull out the welder and some scrap steel and go to work.

[jalopi]

yeah man you will hate life with that clearance

at least you [probably] won't overheat though

[euro2fast4u]

seems like the logical thing would be to move the radiator forward to make less work for you.

[Denny]

So I removed my oil filter housing and was able to get the radiator in place.



So I have about 3/16" between the bolts on the power steering pump and the radiator. I don't think that is quite enough. The snout on the water pump has about an inch.

If I move the radiator up about half an inch though toward the hood the power steering pump bolts are then under the radiator. Anyone see any issues with this clearance wise? I explained to a friend with an e30 over the phone, while looking at his with his hood on it seems like there should be clearance. I am going to probably try and take a look too, maybe mock something out of foam and make sure nothing interferes when closing the hood.

Is it just me or you have a LOT of room between driver frame and alternator? I have about 2 hairs of space there...

[LoneWolf]

yeah man you will hate life with that clearance

at least you [probably] won't overheat though

Yep, I'm going to try and get more clearance. With the big engine though your probably going to have to take stuff apart for any in depth work.

seems like the logical thing would be to move the radiator forward to make less work for you.

I was kicking this idea around, but it seemed like just as much work.

Is it just me or you have a LOT of room between driver frame and alternator? I have about 2 hairs of space there...

It may be the angle of the photo, but now I'm wondering too. I know that my valvecover is almost against the hydroboost set up though and engine was level in all directions with the level frame.


So I went ahead and pulled the engine back out. Did it by myself, was a bit tricky getting the right angle on the transmission and moving a little then adjusting and trying again.


I'm going to move the linkage over. This should let me pick up about 2 inches between the rad and power steering pulley.

Sorry for the crappy pics, it's a cellphone and me trying to hold things up while taking a pic.

I'm using Garret's hydroboost set up and this is going to make for some more fab work. Moving it over by the width of the mounting holes seems like the logical choice.....but then I end up with a ridiculous angle on the rod to the hydroboost, which will probably cause binding. And there is not enough clearance.


So then I thought I was stuck. And then I got an idea, flip the arm. It is really close to the original alignment of the turnbuckle there.


Still not quite right though and I think I run the risk of interference with the valve cover and arm. Sooooo. Looking at it some more I think the best alignment will come from having no offset to either side on the cantilever linkage. I'm going to draw up a template in CAD for a new arm that I can weld onto the opposite of the arm that attaches to the pedal. This probably all reads confusing but I will take some pics when I get it done.


Question for you guys who moved your linkage, did you have issues with where the link connects to the pedal going through the firewall? I've ground mine back, all te way to the pedal box mount and it still isn't quite enough, making the end link go at a hard angle to fit. Did you guys notch the pedal box? You can see the end link going throught the firewall here but hitting and forcing it to angle.

[The Dark Side of Will]

You're the only one I've heard of using Garret's linkage with a BMW V8. It was designed for an LS, which has smaller heads and much more available space in that area.

[LoneWolf]

You're the only one I've heard of using Garret's linkage with a BMW V8. It was designed for an LS, which has smaller heads and much more available space in that area.

Yeah I was originally going ls6, that's how I ended up with this set up. I'm envious of the tiny heads on a pushrod v8, would have been more space.

I will just have to be the first dummy I guess :grin:

So if anyone uses this hydroboost set up for and m60 swap, maybe request with garret that you recieve the cantilever set up just cut out, and not yet welded.

[LoneWolf]

Progress report:

No progress.

I was able to pick up some metal this weekend for fabbing a new bellcrank. Once I have the drawings with the measurments, I will make a template with cad.

Spent the last few hours lying under my dash and attempting to remove my pedal box. I think I invented a few curse words in the process ha.

To get the pedal box out I need to drop the steering column. These crazy Germans used some special fastener that has a cone shaped head on it. I have been going at them with a dremel. No luck yet, and I need a face mask, these safety glasses I have are not cutting it.

Hopefully I at least get the pedal box out tomorrow night.