Project: Spielereien. AKA "The dumpster fire"

[jpod999]

So after driving it for a few months what do you think, was all the work worth it?

(even if the answer is no, please just say yes, I don't think my sanity can take it ;) )

[delamaize]

Made a new bottom radiator hose yesterday, to solve a coolant leak. Kinda solved the leak, It slowed it down to almost nothing. I think the hose side of the thermostat housing is cracked, or at the least seeping.

In other fronts, I had my o2 sensors wired up backwards, I have the wired up right now, but I'm still throwing codes. I'm not sure what the effect of the signal wires being backwards on the sensors, but I'm thinking that it may have screwed up the sensors. I'm looking in to switching to the ford sensors, since they are a ton cheaper, and easier to find.

I'm looking towards the future plans for the swap, now that I've had it in the car and been driving it since june. It's become very apparent, I need to upgrade the brakes, wheels and tires. I need to get my Inline bias adjuster put in, and i need to pull the pedal cluster, and get it modified to allow the remote adjuster for the bias bar to be attached and room for it to move. Coilovers are going to be a MUST. the H&R race springs are ok for now, but I need the adjustability. Eventually, probably sometime over the winter, I'm going to bring it back in the garage, and the drivetrain is coming back out. I got some changes I want to make, like getting rid of the plumbing parts that I used for the coolant system on the back of the motor. I want to get a Garagistic Reinforced front subframe, I'd like to get rid of all the under hood brackets that are not being used. Garagistic also is making a cover for the old Master cylinder hole, that has brake line pass thoughts, and reservoir pass thought, that I would like to use also. The BIG thing I want back is the power steering. I don't mind the manual steering, but for drivability, I want the power back. As for the paint....Nope....this one is staying with the dumpster fire look.

The car it's self has a branded title, it had been hit in the right rear, and was repaired long before I got my hands on it. It's strait, and the body work is ok. Overall, I'm happy with it, but that title is going to haunt me forever. Eventually, I'd like to get a touring, and put this swap into that car, but that's a long time off.

[hotpantz]

sounds good. good work

[delamaize]

Decided it was time to make a good, hard pull. It seemed to stick in 4th a little, and I ran out of space. Shot somewhere in "Mexico"

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bIkmtJh6OjI

[delamaize]

Did some more things today. Went around to a few junk yards looking for other M60 to compare icv valve resistance readings to the one I have. Didn't have much luck, although I did score this m62 engine cover and mounts. Little bit of hacking and it fits like a glove. I think I'm going to paint the cover. I'm not 100% decided what I want to do. Although I have thought about painting the gray areas the same color as my head covers, painting the entire Center area black, and then painting the ribs the mtech colors, and the roundel your normal colors. Also I managed to get the last of the pieces I needed to put the high beam back in on the right side.

[delamaize]

Looking great, glad to hear you made your deadline! I still need to hookup my CEL on my swap. Hopefully I can get the stomp test to work as well!

The stomp test worked for me right off the bat. turn the key to position 2, Run, then full accelerator to full closed 5 times in 5 seconds. Be sure to try to make your "stomps" as close to 5 seconds total, as you can. if you do it too fast, it doesn't go into stomp mode. with mine, I had to stomp 5 times after every code to advance it to the next code. once you get the 1000 code, push and hold the accelerator for at least 10 seconds to reset the codes.

It's really nice to have this, and I got lucky with my car having the light and wiring already in the car, and wired though the C101.

EDIT: I'm not sure if this works with the M62, I wanna say it's only a OBD1 thing.....

[Zacm829]

Looking great, glad to hear you made your deadline! I still need to hookup my CEL on my swap. Hopefully I can get the stomp test to work as well!

[delamaize]

Well, today was the day! Meet up with the PDX caravan guys this morning, and rolled out with them. We went Hwy507 to Hwy510 to hwy7, which was awesome. The M60 likes the cool, dense morning air, it ran awesome all day, even on the trip back. Not a single problem all day.


(Maston took this shot, while I was talking swap still)



The swap was a hit, I had some many questions about it, and compliments. The show it's self was awesome also, as usual.

A few things I found. On the way back, I decided to diagnose the brake problems I have been having. I unplugged the ABS pump, and some of the issues I had got a little better, So I have a ABS problem. I may just delete it all together.

Another thing I made an effort to try to pay attention to, was the surging issue. I made a few discoveries. First, last night, I tested the resistance over pin 1 to 2, 2 to 3, and 1 to 3. I found that 1-2 was 12 ohms, 2-3 was 10 ohms, and 1-3 was 24 ohms. From what I found, (http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...leaning-help-)) ) between 1-2 and 2-3 it should be 12 ohms +/- 2, and over 1-3 should be 23 +/- 4. So the resistance between 2-3 is in spec, but it's on the bottom of the spec, I think that may be part of my issue. the second thing I discovered, is when the clutch is pushed in, and I brake hard, it surges from below idle to about 1200, and back down to an idle, eventually it evens out, once stopped. My theory is, the weak coil in the ICV is not able to keep the ICV at the correct position under braking. I have already thoroughly cleaned the ICV, so I'm thinking it might be time to just replace it.

I'm still getting a O2 sensor lights for both left and right sides, I'm not sure what is going on there, I have not had time to diagnose it yet. I think I may have the wrong sensors. I will address that later.

It has thrown a new code twice now, 1263, which is "Purge Valve." I need to look into what that is, and why it would be throwing a code.

Overall, I am still very happy with how things are going, and how much fun this car is. Awesome swap, I fall in love with this car more and more, every time I turn the key.

[delamaize]

More tinkering ensued today.

Did an experiment, to try to isolate my minor surging issue. I disconnected my ICV to see if anything improved. Which their was an improvement, but not a total fix. So I plan on trying to clean the ICV really good, and of course, test it, if I can find the values and testing procedures.

I also discovered that I forgot to hook up the check engine light. It was at pin 12 on the C101, and pin 8 on the X20, but I had missed putting that wire in. I added it today, and the light started to work. I was able to get the stomp test to work also. It was throwing 1221, and 1212, Which is O2 sensors codes. I reset the codes, and I will see if it throws the codes again. It wouldn't surprise me if the sensors are out of whack, Given I had to put new plugs on, and I am not 100% of the wiring. I mean, I'm confident that I pinned them correctly, but I could be wrong. We will see.

7 days til picnic, still running good.

[delamaize]

Woo! Another text box update!

Under the hood, MAF swap was semi-successful. It's running a little better, but still does the weird surging thing. The range it is making the surging has changed a little also. TPS is good to go, the resistances are within spec, and it's getting the required 5 volts. I have read that a ICV that isn't function right can cause this also, Mine buzzes like it should, but I think it may be a little loud. Going to check it out as soon as I find the specs for it. I think I may have a vacuum leak somewhere still also, Maybe injectors that are not flowing 100%? they will cause what I got going on. Still fishing. It doesn't effect drivability though.

I made a mount for the C101 plug, so it's not just zip tied to the fuse box anymore. I also installed a new temp sensor for the gauge. Now the temp gauge is reading just a hair above the half mark, which seems to be consistent with the other M60 swaps on here. Under hood temps also seem to be down. I speculate that changing the cheapo MAF out with the real Bosch one may have riched things up a little, and made it a little cooler running.

I got a pop in the exhaust, after decel to idle, then back on the throttle, Again, that might be tied into the other, surging, issue.

Inside, I made a shitty new shifter boot for my shitty shifter. I also made the stock shifter knob work a little better. I'm pretty happy with it for now. I'll probably buy a new, real boot when I get a knob that sucks a little less. At the same time, I recovered the drivers side sun visor, after installing the Homelink garage door opener I scavenged from the junkyard IS300 I have in my back yard right now. It's not perfect, but it looks pretty good. Of course, if you've seen my car, it's obvious nothing is perfect about it.

Also, I got a New decal made for the back window, See attached picture.

10 days till picnic.

[CorvallisBMW]

Looking great! Can't wait to see it at the picnic.

[delamaize]

So, After 7 days, I'm still in love with this swap. Even taking it easy, this thing is so fun. I have a few changes, and diagnosis things I need to do.

First of all, it has become very apparent, that I need to get the brake bias dialed in. Right now it isn't bad, but I am relying on back brakes too much. I installed a remote adjuster, but I think it came unscrewed when I was adjusting it the other day. I'm thinking bigger brakes is also a must in the future.

I have a weird slight surge when the RPMs stay at one speed for too long, it's the worse at about 2k, and slower speeds. I'm not sure what the issue is, but I have been able to do a few tests, mostly checking for vacuum leaks, which their is none. I'm wondering if I have a few injectors that are not flowing 100%, or maybe a weak fuel pump. Another thing I suspected is maybe the MAF is a problem. I bought a cheap ass one off Rock Auto, and I'm not sure about the quality, the housing is pretty nice, but the sensor it's self is pretty chinsey. Luckily, I still has the original Bosch sensor, with the destroyed housing, that came with the motor originally. I swapped the Bosch into the cheap housing tonight, I will see tomorrow if it has any effect.

I'm positive I got the cooling system burped now, But it still runs a little hotter than I think it should be running. It's staying between the half mark, and 3/4 mark, usually right between the two, with the fan running. In colder weather, I don't seem to need to run the fan, Although I still do. I can get the temp to come down a little closer to the half mark with the heater. I'm not sure if this is a normal range or not, but it doesn't seem to get hotter. I feel like that the under hood temps are a little hot also, but again, I'm not sure what is normal.

I need to switch out the slave cylinder with the M5 one I bought. I have to REALLY bury my foot into the floor to get 100% disengagement. I also need to take out the Unlock Valve, and install the Clutch Delay Valve Delete I got from ECS.

The Radio is doing weird shit, the speakers cut off when I turn the headlights on. I have my speculation on whats up with it, I just gotta yank the radio back out of the dash and look at the wiring again.

I want to get some different seats, or re bolster and re upholster my stock sport seats, and get some better seatbelts, or harnesses. I am also thinking about getting a mild cage built for it.

I'm thinking about maybe having a pair of resonators put on it sometime. I love the noise this thing makes, but I could see myself getting tired of it, and it does drone a little on the interstate.

I moved the missing headlight from the left side, to the right, which leaves the air filter open though the hole. I figured if I'm going to be missing a light for a while, I may as well have some benefit from it.

Overall, this swap was so worth it, I am having a great time with this car. Tomorrow, I'm taking it for a longer drive, So far I've driven it about 30 minutes at a time, Tomorrow will be about 45 to an hour, when I take it to go look at a friend's danger ranger that is having some issues. If I have no issues there, then I shouldn't have an issue getting it to the show.

12 days till picnic, I'm ok taking it with the small issues I am having, but I would prefer to have it 100%

[delamaize]

Damn sucks to see that happen to a finned diff cover! I picked up the Garagistic second mount preemptively, it looks like it is probably worth it.

I got a stock 2.93 open diff cover on it now, Going to order the Garagistic mount on pay day. Probably going to stay with the 2.93 diff cover. The fins were a little lower than what the roads in my area can handle.

[jpod999]

Damn sucks to see that happen to a finned diff cover! I picked up the Garagistic second mount preemptively, it looks like it is probably worth it.

[delamaize]

Well, i found a weak point...
I bottomed out the other day, I'm pretty sure it weakened it, then when I pinned it to win it in 2nd, SNAP! good thing I had a standard diff cover from the original 2.93 open. few hours of work, and another 1.5 quarts of royal purple, and we are back on the road again. Guess it's time for the Garagistic secondary diff mount...