Project: Spielereien. AKA "The dumpster fire"

[delamaize]

Update: Bad sensor. Tested and installed the 2nd oil pressure sensor I had, Light turned off. Oil pressure is good. I'm still using this as an excuse to put an oil pressure gauge.

this is the setup I'm probably going to go with.

http://prosportgauges.com/amber-white-premium-oil-pressure-gauge.aspx

Using this, tapped into the AN fittings close to the motor.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-670343/overview/

Now I just gotta figure out where I'm going to put it in the cab....

[delamaize]

Well, Fuck.

On the way home today, the dumpster fire had the oil pressure light come on.
Doesn't go off with higher RPM, Shut it down, restart, after a few seconds, light comes back on. No unusual noises, no ticks, no knocks, nothing.....

When it cool down to cold, and restarted for a second, oil light comes on very dim....

Not sure whats going on, Symptoms don't match the oil pump bolts issue. I'm going to drop the pan, check the pump anyways, and re-torque, and locktite things while I'm in there. I'm also going to look into installing a oil pressure sensor and gauge, and a oil cooler while I am at it.

Fucking christ, I hope this is just something stupid.....

[jpod999]

It was worth it, It was SOOOO WORTH IT. This thing pulls like a train. Easily breaks'em loose in 1st and 2nd, 3rd in the wet. The sound alone is worth it. I drive it as much as I can. Their isn't a time that I don't have a smile on my face when I turn that key.

:bow::bow:

[delamaize]

So after driving it for a few months what do you think, was all the work worth it?

(even if the answer is no, please just say yes, I don't think my sanity can take it ;) )

It was worth it, It was SOOOO WORTH IT. This thing pulls like a train. Easily breaks'em loose in 1st and 2nd, 3rd in the wet. The sound alone is worth it. I drive it as much as I can. Their isn't a time that I don't have a smile on my face when I turn that key.

[jpod999]

So after driving it for a few months what do you think, was all the work worth it?

(even if the answer is no, please just say yes, I don't think my sanity can take it ;) )

[delamaize]

Made a new bottom radiator hose yesterday, to solve a coolant leak. Kinda solved the leak, It slowed it down to almost nothing. I think the hose side of the thermostat housing is cracked, or at the least seeping.

In other fronts, I had my o2 sensors wired up backwards, I have the wired up right now, but I'm still throwing codes. I'm not sure what the effect of the signal wires being backwards on the sensors, but I'm thinking that it may have screwed up the sensors. I'm looking in to switching to the ford sensors, since they are a ton cheaper, and easier to find.

I'm looking towards the future plans for the swap, now that I've had it in the car and been driving it since june. It's become very apparent, I need to upgrade the brakes, wheels and tires. I need to get my Inline bias adjuster put in, and i need to pull the pedal cluster, and get it modified to allow the remote adjuster for the bias bar to be attached and room for it to move. Coilovers are going to be a MUST. the H&R race springs are ok for now, but I need the adjustability. Eventually, probably sometime over the winter, I'm going to bring it back in the garage, and the drivetrain is coming back out. I got some changes I want to make, like getting rid of the plumbing parts that I used for the coolant system on the back of the motor. I want to get a Garagistic Reinforced front subframe, I'd like to get rid of all the under hood brackets that are not being used. Garagistic also is making a cover for the old Master cylinder hole, that has brake line pass thoughts, and reservoir pass thought, that I would like to use also. The BIG thing I want back is the power steering. I don't mind the manual steering, but for drivability, I want the power back. As for the paint....Nope....this one is staying with the dumpster fire look.

The car it's self has a branded title, it had been hit in the right rear, and was repaired long before I got my hands on it. It's strait, and the body work is ok. Overall, I'm happy with it, but that title is going to haunt me forever. Eventually, I'd like to get a touring, and put this swap into that car, but that's a long time off.

[hotpantz]

sounds good. good work

[delamaize]

Decided it was time to make a good, hard pull. It seemed to stick in 4th a little, and I ran out of space. Shot somewhere in "Mexico"

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bIkmtJh6OjI

[delamaize]

Did some more things today. Went around to a few junk yards looking for other M60 to compare icv valve resistance readings to the one I have. Didn't have much luck, although I did score this m62 engine cover and mounts. Little bit of hacking and it fits like a glove. I think I'm going to paint the cover. I'm not 100% decided what I want to do. Although I have thought about painting the gray areas the same color as my head covers, painting the entire Center area black, and then painting the ribs the mtech colors, and the roundel your normal colors. Also I managed to get the last of the pieces I needed to put the high beam back in on the right side.

[delamaize]

Looking great, glad to hear you made your deadline! I still need to hookup my CEL on my swap. Hopefully I can get the stomp test to work as well!

The stomp test worked for me right off the bat. turn the key to position 2, Run, then full accelerator to full closed 5 times in 5 seconds. Be sure to try to make your "stomps" as close to 5 seconds total, as you can. if you do it too fast, it doesn't go into stomp mode. with mine, I had to stomp 5 times after every code to advance it to the next code. once you get the 1000 code, push and hold the accelerator for at least 10 seconds to reset the codes.

It's really nice to have this, and I got lucky with my car having the light and wiring already in the car, and wired though the C101.

EDIT: I'm not sure if this works with the M62, I wanna say it's only a OBD1 thing.....

[Zacm829]

Looking great, glad to hear you made your deadline! I still need to hookup my CEL on my swap. Hopefully I can get the stomp test to work as well!

[delamaize]

Well, today was the day! Meet up with the PDX caravan guys this morning, and rolled out with them. We went Hwy507 to Hwy510 to hwy7, which was awesome. The M60 likes the cool, dense morning air, it ran awesome all day, even on the trip back. Not a single problem all day.


(Maston took this shot, while I was talking swap still)



The swap was a hit, I had some many questions about it, and compliments. The show it's self was awesome also, as usual.

A few things I found. On the way back, I decided to diagnose the brake problems I have been having. I unplugged the ABS pump, and some of the issues I had got a little better, So I have a ABS problem. I may just delete it all together.

Another thing I made an effort to try to pay attention to, was the surging issue. I made a few discoveries. First, last night, I tested the resistance over pin 1 to 2, 2 to 3, and 1 to 3. I found that 1-2 was 12 ohms, 2-3 was 10 ohms, and 1-3 was 24 ohms. From what I found, (http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...leaning-help-)) ) between 1-2 and 2-3 it should be 12 ohms +/- 2, and over 1-3 should be 23 +/- 4. So the resistance between 2-3 is in spec, but it's on the bottom of the spec, I think that may be part of my issue. the second thing I discovered, is when the clutch is pushed in, and I brake hard, it surges from below idle to about 1200, and back down to an idle, eventually it evens out, once stopped. My theory is, the weak coil in the ICV is not able to keep the ICV at the correct position under braking. I have already thoroughly cleaned the ICV, so I'm thinking it might be time to just replace it.

I'm still getting a O2 sensor lights for both left and right sides, I'm not sure what is going on there, I have not had time to diagnose it yet. I think I may have the wrong sensors. I will address that later.

It has thrown a new code twice now, 1263, which is "Purge Valve." I need to look into what that is, and why it would be throwing a code.

Overall, I am still very happy with how things are going, and how much fun this car is. Awesome swap, I fall in love with this car more and more, every time I turn the key.

[delamaize]

More tinkering ensued today.

Did an experiment, to try to isolate my minor surging issue. I disconnected my ICV to see if anything improved. Which their was an improvement, but not a total fix. So I plan on trying to clean the ICV really good, and of course, test it, if I can find the values and testing procedures.

I also discovered that I forgot to hook up the check engine light. It was at pin 12 on the C101, and pin 8 on the X20, but I had missed putting that wire in. I added it today, and the light started to work. I was able to get the stomp test to work also. It was throwing 1221, and 1212, Which is O2 sensors codes. I reset the codes, and I will see if it throws the codes again. It wouldn't surprise me if the sensors are out of whack, Given I had to put new plugs on, and I am not 100% of the wiring. I mean, I'm confident that I pinned them correctly, but I could be wrong. We will see.

7 days til picnic, still running good.

[delamaize]

Woo! Another text box update!

Under the hood, MAF swap was semi-successful. It's running a little better, but still does the weird surging thing. The range it is making the surging has changed a little also. TPS is good to go, the resistances are within spec, and it's getting the required 5 volts. I have read that a ICV that isn't function right can cause this also, Mine buzzes like it should, but I think it may be a little loud. Going to check it out as soon as I find the specs for it. I think I may have a vacuum leak somewhere still also, Maybe injectors that are not flowing 100%? they will cause what I got going on. Still fishing. It doesn't effect drivability though.

I made a mount for the C101 plug, so it's not just zip tied to the fuse box anymore. I also installed a new temp sensor for the gauge. Now the temp gauge is reading just a hair above the half mark, which seems to be consistent with the other M60 swaps on here. Under hood temps also seem to be down. I speculate that changing the cheapo MAF out with the real Bosch one may have riched things up a little, and made it a little cooler running.

I got a pop in the exhaust, after decel to idle, then back on the throttle, Again, that might be tied into the other, surging, issue.

Inside, I made a shitty new shifter boot for my shitty shifter. I also made the stock shifter knob work a little better. I'm pretty happy with it for now. I'll probably buy a new, real boot when I get a knob that sucks a little less. At the same time, I recovered the drivers side sun visor, after installing the Homelink garage door opener I scavenged from the junkyard IS300 I have in my back yard right now. It's not perfect, but it looks pretty good. Of course, if you've seen my car, it's obvious nothing is perfect about it.

Also, I got a New decal made for the back window, See attached picture.

10 days till picnic.

[CorvallisBMW]

Looking great! Can't wait to see it at the picnic.