Garagistic boosterless kit and Early e30

[Jean]

Does anyone here have any clear / detailed photos of the wildwood bracket from Garagistic lined up with the factory mounting holes under the dash from the factory pedal box?

I just tried fitting it (removed the dash first, and my car is non-abs so there isn't much there to begin with which is nice :) ) and ran into a small issue.

The bracket has 3 mounting holes, and instructions state to line it up with the factory holes. My car only has 2 holes there, the pedal box I've removed also was mounting with 2 bolts and not 3.

If I try to line up the bracket with the factory two bolts I have two options, either line it up and match the two holes but then the whole assembly is shifted too far LEFT and is in the way with factory wiring... (don't think this a correct location). The other option is to move the bracket slightly to the RIGHT and then it does not interfere with the factory wiring (it's the grounding point where all the brown wires connect), but then only 1 bolt hole lines up?

So, for those who have used this bracket can you please reply with

1) what year chassis you've installed it in, and did you use 2 or 3 bolts and how you have it aligned under the dash if you only used 2 bolts?

Pictures to follow.

[dasmanschaft012]

I have an 88, basically late model. How many holes total are there? i have to bend that big grounding point out of the way a bit to get everything to fit. its tight

[Q8y_drifter]

I have an 88, basically late model. How many holes total are there? i have to bend that big grounding point out of the way a bit to get everything to fit. its tight

1989 E30 here. I slightly bent the tab for the ground stud to fit everything as noted above. IIRC all 3 rear holes lined up, and the 3 front holes in the engine bay all had to be drilled out per the instructions. Have you contacted Garagistic?

[Jean]

So, I got 2 of the two bolts to fit ...not liking how close the left side of the wildwood bracket is to the wiring harness that goes to the fusebox...it's literally pushing against it.

When I ordered my kit, the recommended cylinders were wilwood 260-3372 and looks like current recommend cylinder is 260-10371.

260-3372 have a problem fitting under there, especially the right most cylinder as it interferes with the steering tube.

It looks like 260-3372 is 5.56" in length (http://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylinde...temno=260-3372)
and the 260-10371 is 3.36" in length

http://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylinders/MasterCylinderProd.aspx?itemno=260-10371

Argh, looks like I'll need to either order 2 new brake cylinders OR perhaps see about lowering the steering console down about an inch....

[dasmanschaft012]

260-3372 definitely doesn't look like the masters i got with my kit.
260-10371 looks like the masters i have with my kit.

Yes, the bracket is very close to the wiring harness. start cutting zip ties and move it a bit.
I had to practically pull ALL the wiring up there down just to get it to fit.

[Jean]

Yeah, when I got my kit years ago the 260-3372 is what was recommended :/

I am going to check with Garagistic if modifying their bracket is going to be a problem to give it some room for the stock wiring loom. There is not much place there to move it as it's sticking right out of the firewall.

I am either going to have to get two new cylinders to gain clearance OR looking at an option of lowering my steering console down an inch or so, that should give me the space I need.

[Q8y_drifter]

The compact MC is what you need. Dropping the steering column will not give you the required clearance (my column is dropped more than an inch for better feel and less truck-like steering).

As for your bias adjuster valve question on the other thread, you only require Wilwood P/N 340-4990 and it will attach on the thread rod of the balance bar on your Wilwood pedal box. No need for any bias adjusting valves.

[Jean]

The compact MC is what you need. Dropping the steering column will not give you the required clearance (my column is dropped more than an inch for better feel and less truck-like steering).

As for your bias adjuster valve question on the other thread, you only require Wilwood P/N 340-4990 and it will attach on the thread rod of the balance bar on your Wilwood pedal box. No need for any bias adjusting valves.

Thanks, I spoke with Wilwood yesterday and they did also mention 340-4990 .

Interesting that you are saying lowering the steering column did not give you more clearance though? By lowering it you are opening up the angle between the firewall and the lower mounting point, so you are in fact getting more room.

Now, since my car is non-abs, I have 3 hard lines under the hood (non ABS MC has 3 lines vs ABS MC with 2 lines). I'll be adding a wilwood bias valve, they have one with 2 lines IN and 3 lines OUT which is perfect for my scenario.

[Q8y_drifter]

Wait I must have missed something here, are you going with a Wilwood pedal box or keeping the factory pedals?

[Jean]

Wait I must have missed something here, are you going with a Wilwood pedal box or keeping the factory pedals?

Ugh, wilwood pedals since the topic is garagistic boosterless kit

[Q8y_drifter]

Ugh, wilwood pedals since the topic is garagistic boosterless kit

Just making sure, because I'm not sure why you need the bias valve if you have the Wilwood balance bar adjuster? Isn't the adjuster changing the bias in this case?

As for dropping the column, the pic below is the Garagistic bracket with the compact MCs and fittings installed on my car. The column in this pic is at factory height. There's a metal tab on the column where the right MC fitting sits, which has to be bent to avoid contact with the fitting. Using the compact MC and dropping the column gives you extra clearance needed to install and tighten the fittings, however I'm just not sure if you can get 2.2+ inches of extra clearance for the regular MCs without the column being too low or possibly affecting steering operation.

[dasmanschaft012]

Just making sure, because I'm not sure why you need the bias valve if you have the Wilwood balance bar adjuster? Isn't the adjuster changing the bias in this case?

To adjust the bias, you have to completely remove the pedals and take them apart. This is a huge pain. A quick initial set up, and a remote bias adjuster allows you to fine tune your brake bias without taking it all apart.

[jpod999]

To adjust the bias, you have to completely remove the pedals and take them apart. This is a huge pain. A quick initial set up, and a remote bias adjuster allows you to fine tune your brake bias without taking it all apart.

And then the adjustable prop valve allows you to control the pressure that reaches the rear brakes.

I spoke with a Wilwood rep at a car show a while back about this setup- he said that it's best to have the bias bar setup neutral or slightly towards the front, and then to adjust the braking with the prop valve...

[36brua]

And then the adjustable prop valve allows you to control the pressure that reaches the rear brakes.

I spoke with a Wilwood rep at a car show a while back about this setup- he said that it's best to have the bias bar setup neutral or slightly towards the front, and then to adjust the braking with the prop valve...

^^This -My set up is garagistic mount and wilwood master pedal set up, adj bias valve in rear brake line- replaces stock valve- bias bar set slightly to front. and yes I had to take the pedals out and reset grrr...cable bias bar knob. E36 front brakes/ e30M3 rear. Textar/Pagid stk pads. ABS sys. still plumbed in . rough set f/r bias by panic stops on gravel road using rear proportioning valve and interior cable

[Jean]

I just ordered another set of wilwood cylinders and the balance bar adjuster as well from summit. I have no idea how I ended up with the big/long wilwood cylinders, DOH!

Since my car is non-abs, I'll be adding that wilwood 2in, 3 out prop valve under the hood as well, and it will also act as a T.